Thanks...figured it was a long shot.
Wait - you think that's boring!?!!? Mind - blown. 
I am impressed w/the install and having it inside. 
Are you talking about using the optional temperature sensor with it? This is for sure meant for status lights, and as @kahn-hubitat said, it cannot have stray light interfering with it. I realized that it wasn't defective when I finally put the lid back on the machine and then tested it. But up to that point, it wasn't working properly because of the ambient light too bright, and I didn't have it installed in the "normal" way it's intended.
But there's an option temperature sensor. It can't be exposed to direct flame though.
Thanks...temp won't work, as it would have to sense across the full width of the stove. THink I'm going to stick w/my plan to pull the front-panel off and see if I can stuff a contact sensor inside, and magnet on the knob, to sense on/off that way. Probably the most reliable option I have at this point, if the contact sensor will fit.
Curious to see what you come up with. Our stovetop is Gas too and my wife has left empty pots on the stove without turning the burner off, many times.
@SmartHomePrimer - as you said to me earlier: 
Stove Safety Mod is done! And if I may say so, this may result in words and phrases like "genius!" and "What an ego that guy has!" being bandied about. 
Starting point - 6 burner gas stove.
Remove knobs and front panel:
Plenty of room behind the front panel to hold the contact sensor.
Plenty of room in the knob to place the magnet.
Magnet taken from magnetized hooks we had on hand. Use plumbers putty to hold the magnet in place.
Position sensor on back of the front panel so that it overlays part of the opening where the magnet on the knob will be positioned so the contact sensor reads Closed when the knob is in the Off position.
Holding the knob w/magnet in place on the other side so I can see what my clearances are. Confirmed it's working - sensor reads closed.
Looks like this from the front.
Four sensors mounted. I only wanted to monitor the four burners we use for longer-term simmering. For some reason/habit that's the front three and the left-rear.
Made sure batteries are easily accessible (not blocked by any flanges or other protuberances. This is the main "gotcha" - will have to take off the stove front panel to change batteries. Takes 8 screws and about five minutes - not a huge deal.
Also ensured all sensors had fresh 100% batteries installed.
Had my son help me hold the panel in place and tested each burner (installed knob with magnet) before really sealing things back up. BINGO!!! Houston, we have liftoff!
Burner on:
Contact sensor open:
Looks the same as when I started. No wires, no dangly bits, nothing to fall off, or get moved accidentally, or catch fire/melt.
WAF is running at 100%. 
Really happy with this (so far).
Now time to make automations - will be making some lights change color and have some voice announcements ("Then left burner has been on for 20 minutes."), etc.
Light strip on, letting us know one or more burners are on. It's intentionally set to a reduced level in this shot. We still haven't settled on how bright we want it. The good news is that it's very noticeable in person, even at this level during the day.
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Nice work!
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Now that you've proven it works, maybe hack those sensors for external power and throw a power brick in there somewhere????
S
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I see you have your oven elsewhere - I'm worried about what the heat from ours would do with such a setup. The knobs get fairly warm.
Very nice setup though!!!
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I have a stovetop that is separate from the oven, so no where near the room you have to work with, but this has given me so good ideas to go from.
Thanks!
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Very cool!
One small suggestion, you might want to use something other than plumber's putty. It isn't a great adhesive and tends to dry out over time (especially around heat).
100% WAF is a significant achievement and you want to keep it at that level for as long as humanly possible. If one of those magnets falls off at an inopportune time...
J-B Weld is your friend here.
Oh, and if you considering announcements, "Honey you're going to burn dinner again" should probably not be one of them.
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Thanks very much for the tip about the plumber's putty. To give you an idea of my level of expertise, I thought that was a perfect choice. 
I've already ordered a patch that says 100% WAF! and will wear it proudly on my hat. 
And regarding the announcement, be careful or I'll show what you wrote there to my wife. 
Hopefully you can find an approach that works for your situation and lay out of your stuff. I got really lucky, I had opened the cooktop up a few times to replace some of the spark systems stuff, so I remembered there was some room, but I was happily surprised to see how wonderfully open it was. I could have fit pretty much anything in there.
Good luck!
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I was thinking the exact same thing, I'd really like the power these contact senses without having to open it up again. I don't know if you saw it in the pictures but there's actually a plug on the left hand front end of the top, So that seems like obvious point at which to steal some power.
However my knowledge of electricity is extremely limited. As in I think it's made by magical elves. So there is a slight risk that I might end up electrocuting myself.
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One way to find out If it will work. Sacrifice a contact sensor for the good of science. I'm actually pretty excited about setting up some automations for this. I'm thinking about a motion sensor up inside the hood, so I can set some rules up for if no motion at the stove for x minutes and the burners are on...
Should be fun.
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Having left burners on myself you are on to something! Will have to think about it a little.. 
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This is nicely done! For this type of stove this is a good design. I have a italian cooktop with the knobs mounted on top and to the right. There his a good 4mm gap between the knobs and the metal base, and the knobs are solid. But I'm thinking of changing stove top the type you have so maybe I'll just wait for a bit and copy you.
I would setup the "things quited down" automation via a motion sensor for the kitchen as the way I would track if I forgot the burner. Maybe a virtual switch for an Alexa routine "Alexa start simmer" that when set functions to doubles the timeout in the warning automation.
If no motion by the stove fora 20 minutes and then a warning if no motion and maybe 40 minutes if the virtual switch is set to indicate simmer. Cancel the virtual switch when all burners on the stove are set to off so it returns to non-simmer mode
Neat stuff!
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Thanks! Yeah, I really did get lucky w/my stove configuration, suited my desired solution perfectly.
Decided I'm going to start w/a motion sensor on the kickboard on the island cabinets across from the stove. That will sense us walking around in that area and reduce false readings as it will be pointing away from the family room end of the room. I think I prefer to not use a sensor in the hood, as it might react to steam, and I'm concerned about it getting gummed up w/oil and particulates coming from our cooking, making it less sensitive/accurate.
Still thinking about visual notifications...want something that is noticeable, but not too obtrusive as we frequently make stocks and stews, and other dishes that may need to simmer for quite a while, and don't want the "burner on" lighting to become annoying. A fine line between safety and my wife saying "That is really annoying..."
Put a table lamp somewhere where you usually are and make it blink a couple of times? I prefer voice but yeah, that can get annoying. But then again getting my outdoor alexa to tell me I forgot something on the stove when I'm outside seems like a great idea.
I like the virtual switch method for telling the automation that I anticipate a long cook on the stove.
I agree with you, sensor in the hood is not a good idea. I find that putting the small lowes motion sensors on top of door frames makes them invisible. I have one on top of a frame that is pointing directly at the stove and away from the dining area. I use it as a temp sensor and as a sensor for hsm but it would be a good use for your use case.
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Just FYI, I just happen to work on a device that is powered from heat source.
I personally put temperature sensor above our stove.
I am looking for a way to come up with a better solution. Here is where I am today.
Let me know if you have any suggestion or request. It is a start for me. I can still adjust and make changes based on your input to my project.
Thanks
Iman
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