Zooz Zen17 + liftmaster

My garage door opener says "MyQ" on the side of it, but it a really early 2015 version. I've tried to connect it to the MyQ app, with no success, so I'm trying to use the Zen17. I wired it up as directed (image below) But the garage door doesn't move.

When I press open in the Hubitat interface, and the light on the wall button goes out momentarily, and I can hear the relay close, but nothing happens. Then after 2 seconds, the button light comes back on. The wall button doesn't function while the light is off, but works fine after the relay opens again and the light comes back on. It makes me think it's wired properly, but for some reason, when the Zen17 "connects" the wires, the opener interprets it differently and doesn't open.

I setup the relay up as "momentary", "garage door", "toggle switch on/off" in Hubitat, but it doesn't seem to make a difference.....

I think I'm going to try wiring the zen17 to a remote next and see if I have better luck there

Anyone have any other thoughts on what to do with the original arrangement or is wiring to the remote the best bet?

Hold on. It appears you are trying to use directions that say in big blue and red boxes cannot be used with a MyQ. These instructions only apply if your wall-mounted pushbutton is just a pushbutton like an old doorbell, and it will not work if that wall button has any smarts, that is, has a printed circuit board in it for example.

Let's start with .. what color is the learn button on your MyQ garage door opener?


@user4284 You may need a security 2.0 to dry contact adapter


Welcome to the community!

Seems like you're on the right track, using a direct switched connection with a security system won't work unless you connect your switched signal to the actual button that starts the process to generate the security signal to the garage door opener.

Like what you said about the remote. :wink:


You can connect that series opener to the MyQ cloud network/app (which the Hubitat MyQ connector uses) by using a MyQ Internet Gateway. The 828LM is the current model for LiftMaster/Chamberlain models from that era. This will connect via the 900Mhz MyQ network and bridge your opener to the MyQ app (which Hubitat can also control).

You can also use the Sears version of the 828LM sold under the AssureLink brand. Its not made any more but you can pick them up on ebay for around $20-$25.

They connect via ethernet to your home network, and via 900MHz MyQ to the opener.

I use both an 828LM and a AssureLink version to control some MyQ GDOs. They work great.

There are other "MyQ" branded interfaces that use different methods to interface to openers, and it can be confusing. There were also GDO's that have WiFi built in (branded both with MyQ and WiFi) and connect to the MyQ cloud app that way. They don't need the 828LM gateway, its built in.

As others have said, using a ZEN16/ZEN17 (or any relay style controller) to touch the wires together with a "smart" GDO won't work. You'd need to use a button adapter if you want to use a relay to open/close the door.

Personally I like the MyQ smarter interfaces vs the button "interface". The button adapters just toggle the state but don't natively know the status of the door (open/closed/opening/closing/stuck) or its sensors/motors. MyQ also will trigger the closure alarm (beeping/flashing lights for 10 seconds before remote closure) for a high level of safety.

On the downside, the MyQ cloud app interfaces will require, uh, the cloud. :slight_smile: For my usecases, thats not a problem as we only use remote closure occasionally (and only with visual confirmation of safe closure via camera.) Others want to fully automate the open / closing of their door. I personally feel automating the closure of a door is too big of safety risk, but you can find threads on this forum that discuss the pros and cons.


@Ranchitat is correct.

If you are wanting to keep this local (I would recommend it) and are a little handy with a soldering iron then you can fix this cheaply. I just did the same thing (should have taken some pictured).

You want to take the wall controller off and connect wires to the board where the momentary switch (that you push to open the door) is connected. Then run those wires to your Zen17 relay as switch1. Now the Zen17 relay is pushing the button on your controller which works today.

The other option is doing this soldering method with a spare remote that is programmed to the opener to achieve the same thing (but then you have to put it somewhere in the garage and replace the battery as needed).

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Another option if you don't want to deal with batteries on the remote, you can use one of these instead: Security+ 2.0 Wired Dry Contact Adapter – Garadget

Or like stated above, if you're handy with a soldering iron you could buy just the switch like above and solder your own leads to it.

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I just ran into this as well and am waiting on the updated Zen16 to make the switch. I have the internet gateway for myQ and learned about the security2.0 issue recently as well.

If I was in OP shoes, I would wire the Zen17 to a spare remote as that is the easiest. But I also would try to experiment with adding additional leads to the wall unit button solder leads on its PCB...not sure if that's viable but I do feel the OP's pain as it was mine recently.

Here's a nice write-up (with pics) to refer to along the way:

Here is my solution to connecting my LifeMaster MyQ doors to Hubitat. [Chamberlin/LiftMaster control with a slight twist]

I did exactly that…not a MyQ but similar wall mounted (wireless) controller with batteries. The relay replicates a button press. Eight years with no issues. Red wires go to the relay…

i appreciate all of the comments, this really is an amazing group. all helpful, no jerks!!

i ended up soldering the bell wires to the remote, and it all works great. i taped the remote to the relay, and was able to plug it in to an outlet in the unfinished part of my basement. its completely out of sight, and works great.

I appreciate all pf the help.


For completeness, there's also this excellent guide: DIY GDO ZEN16

(Had lost my bookmark, just tracked it down again. :wink: )

Edit: And then there's this one for more info on GDO remotes.

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I'm late to the party, but I was just looking to control my LiftMaster via Hubitat and found that the Zen17 has all that's needed, but discovered, that my 8165 does not have terminals for up down switches. What I did, was take an extra car remote, unsolder the switch, solder wires onto them, and connected those to Relay 1 (NO and C).
The app allows you to set the duration of how long the relay stays energized, simulating a momentary switch.

What needs to be improved on is the battery, I tried using a regulated 3V wall wart, but there seems to be too much ripple left over and won't work.

I'm using a wall wart now and not sure what you mean by ripple..

I'll give that one a try.

Ripple is the AC portion.