Aeotec Bypass Dimmer - Alternative

Anybody know of an alternative for the Aeotec Bypass Dimmer. Is there anything else people are using to meet the need.


I've always used the Aeotec when needed, but I think that FIBARO may also make one.

I find these really expensive for what they do (even though they can be a life saver when needed),

Aren't these just a Power Resistor or something or is there more to it. Has anyone opened one up and see what's inside that black box, if it's just a power resistor, all we need to know is the resistance of it, and then we can calculate the safe Wattage needed for them for a 120V and at least see if there is a cheaper alternative.

If I had one (or needed one) I would for sure open it up and see.

What is the need, and what is the problem with the Aeotec? :slight_smile: (Serious question; I tried one once and it didn't fix my problem, but neither did anything else I tried--which was operating barely within the specs of an Inovelli LZW31-SN, so not entirely Aeotec's fault.)

The "anything else" I'm referring to includes (besides the Aeon) the Fibaro bypass also mentioned above as well as the Lutron MLC (minimum load capacitor). I think Inovelli was also planning on making one, though I haven't heard anything about that recently and don't know if it would be available separately from their dimmers. When I last looked, these were all I could find. But perhaps we were trying to solve different problems.

I have a few more switches in my house that I would like to make smart. There is one in particular with no neutral wire. This has happened to me before and I actually did the work to rewire the circuit with a neutral. In this case, that would be hard, so I was hoping to install an inovelli red series dimmer that does not require a neutral. They do suggest adding a device like the Aeotec mentioned above, especially if your LED load is low.

I am in Canada, so to purchase the Aeotec, this is my option:
$35.00 is a little steep, paid only slightly more for the switch. is my other option but they have been sold out for quite a while.

Just looking for an alternative that may be a little cheaper.

Remember that the bypass is only needed with LED lights, in one application I have, getting a bypass was way out of price compared to getting regular old filament bulbs instead. The power I'll be paying more with the regular bulbs would take about 60 years to pay for the bypass.

Since those lights were old filament style bulbs, we still have those in Canada :slight_smile:

I hear what your saying, but I think you should check your math. I live in Manitoba and with all taxes in I pay 10 cents per kilowatt/hour. The switch controls a light fixture that takes 3 bulbs. It is not unreasonable to think with LED's I am looking at 18 watts and with filament bulbs I am looking at 118 watts. Difference 100 watts. Light on for 10 hours a day = 1 kilowatt difference or 10 cents/day or $36.50 year or $2190.00 per 60 years. If the light is only on for 3.3 hours a day, divide the amounts by 3, the device would still pay for itself in 4 years time.

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Lutron LUT-MLC

$15.89 seems a little more reasonable.
But, will it work?

Lutron Shunt Capacitor to assist with non-neutral based digital switches in meeting minimum load requirements. The LUT-MLC comes in the package with Lutron digital switches that do not require a neutral connection. In most scenarios, it is not needed, however if the switch is wired in and it does not completely turn off the light or flashes/flickers in the off state, the LUT-MLC will need to be installed either in the switch's junction box or in the first fixture of the lighting circuit. The LUT-MLC was only designed to be used on Lutron digital switches. They should not be used on dimmers with the exception of ones rated for electronic low voltage, such as the Caseta PD-5NE. The LUT-MLC will only help with a light not turning completely off once the switch has been turned off. It will not help with other dimming issues caused by the type of light bulb, such as flashing or buzzing.

Good question, I have no answer, I guess it would for LEDs not completely shutting off but not for other problems as stated in the description.

~ 1.2 MΩ

Looks like 1W rating

Thanks a lot! Will make a few tests after I order a resistor and see if that works or if it has a capacitor in parallel with it? I wonder if they get at all hot when in use?

It could be an RC circuit, but I would expect to see the ratings for the cap on the item if it were. The picture I took captures ALL of the markings on the item. I don't have access to my scopes at work right now to check. (shut down and all)

My theory is that the issue is just not enough wattage on the dimmer for it to be stable. So, they just add resistance to make a minimum load. No need for a capacitor in that situation. But, they may have one for grins and giggles.

PS - Make sure whatever resistor you get is rated for AC.... that could make a difference......

According to Luke:

5.0 out of 5 stars It's a simple capacitor and it works to eliminate LED ghosting

Reviewed in the United States on October 2, 2019

This is just a 0.47uF X1 310VAC rated capacitor. Electronic dimmers without neutral connections need a return path when the light bulb (load) is off to power the circuit inside the dimmer. This capacitor provides a lower impedance return path for the dimmer to bypass the bulb when "off" which reduces or eliminates LED ghosting. If you are not using a dimmer with a neutral, don't have a neutral available in dimmer location, or do not want to pay for a dimmer that uses a neutral this is a good solution. If there is no neutral at the dimmer location you will need to install this capacitor across the load (the light bulb socket). It is important to note this capacitor is designed to eliminate ghosting not to fix a poor LED and dimmer combination that is producing flickering but it can help with that in some cases.

Lutron LUT-MLC



Nice find!!! I guess I have an order to place at Digikey :slight_smile:

Resistors and capacitors. And then see what it best and report here when all is done.

If your fixture takes 3 bulbs, are you sure you're going to need a bypass? I've got some Inovelli switches setup with no neutral, and haven't had any need to use a bypass. One of the switches feeds a 3 bulb vanity, and it dimmed and shut off perfectly.

I’m using a 24k 3W power resistor.

And there is no ac or dc rating on resistors. Only caps.

The zooz zen26 and Zen27 are horrible without a load on them. I know Zooz recommends at least a 25w load but hitting 80v no load voltage is a little silly. The zen26 will not even switch properly using the paddle with a small load. Inovelli red dimmers are almost as bad with open voltage.

The problem with some types of led bulbs is they will not conduct any leakage until a certain voltage is hit, making them glow when off.

Zwave controller behaviour can be erratic as well when switching on.

I have yet to hit an issue that the 24k resistor doesn’t take care of. And yes I buy them from digikey and solder 14 awg wire on so it straps across the back of the switch.


I have an Inovelli Red Dimmer with 72 LED bulbs on it (string lights), problem is they are all 2 Watts bulbs, so they were all glowing a bit when off. So I installed an incandescent one for string lights in place of the first light in the string, now they dim completely off.

The lower your draw, the bigger the problem becomes. Especially with dimmers that don't require a Neutral because of the way they are made to be able to do that, even if you plug a neutral to it.

@Eric_Inovelli Inovelli should come out with a dimmer that always requires a Neutral wire and has no leaking problem, this would be a nice option with a lot less problems, or add the load in the dimmer with a user selectable switch or something like the air gap thing but in the back of the switch.

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Resistors don't have an AC or DC rating, only Capacitors have this.

From both a safety standpoint and a length of service standpoint, there are resistors that are designed to be used in AC circuits. Also, from a pure measurement standpoint, some resistors cause issues in an AC circuit. So, yes, from a purely hypothetical view, a resistor is a resistor. However, if you don't want to be replacing it all the time, or you do not want to start a fire, you need a resistor that was designed to be used in an AC circuit (Note the frequency specs on the picture I placed in my previous comment.)