[RELEASE] Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch

I am finding that this driver can't adjust the parameters of the switch.

When I first installed the switch, it picked up on the Aeotec Home Energy Monitor driver that I had installed. I have that set to report power every 5 seconds. That's how the switch reported every 5 seconds, I guess. I couldn't change it with this driver.

I installed the HEM driver on the switch, changed some things. Got it to only report only every 5 minutes. But it was amps, not watts, so I changed the 101 parameter from 2 to the default of 4 to get power. So the devices are similar, with the three groups, but not exactly.

There's a listing of parameters here:

I can't figure out, yet, how to interpret the table at the end. That could help.

I take it back. 5 seconds, 120 seconds, and 120 seconds are the defaults for groups 1,2,and 3 per the document above.

I had been using this device for over 2 years now, but recently decided to switch over to another one.
This device is very flaky and generates lost of noise in the zwave network is paired with S0.

For all these years the driver / device was working perfectly but I had to disable the security at the pairing when I moved to zwave 700.

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Well, that's a shame.

I've read you a usb stick can be used to pair without security. I'll have to look into it more. I want to make this work.

The driver doesn't seem to be writing any parameters over to the device. I can bring over parameters from the Basic Z-Wave tool, but I still haven't figured out the hex table in the Aeotec instruction manual. I'm not that computer savvy.

Yes, you have to pair it with a secondary controller, when i used it all the parameters where working.
Inhad it very little time in S0 mode as it killed my network

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Unrelated question...is the energy reading calculated/stored directly on the device? I believe so from my interpretation of the driver, but wanted to check.

Arg, this got me again! That was my problem too. Had the same issue with the Fibaro sensor-- was paired with S0 and flaky. Re-paired with Z-stick w/o security and problems went away.

@bobbyD @bcopeland feature request:
I get that HE can't pair w/o security when S0 is available. But how about a pop up warning that the device is/is about to be included with S0?

Unfortunately the SDK doesn’t inform us until after the device is included.

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Well, that's still better than not-- a banner or something attention-getting can be displayed on the device page.

even though i have Report Interval = 10 min, parameter 111 is set to the default, "5" -- and the debug logs continue to show the meterReport every 120 seconds.

So I used the basic zwave tool to set parameter 112 to 600. Now I'm getting the updates every 10 minutes, how i'd expect.

is 111 the wrong parameter for the driver to be updating? or maybe the list of things in RG1/RG2/RG3 are just different in the newer switches vs older?

Have you found out how to work the table? Configuration Values for parameter 101‐103? It's a mystery to me.

I've been using the HDSS paired to ST as a simple on-off relay for a 5000W garage heater for a couple of years, but with this week's ST switchover killing off Groovy SmartApps I've lost my automations for the HDSS and a number of devices.

The HDSS had been working fine in my setup for years, and I don't need energy monitoring. It doesn't appear that either the HDSS or the Fibaro Smart Implant (with DS18B20 sensors) upon which the HDSS automations were triggered will be getting Edge drivers, so I decided to migrate them to HE. Of course now I'm finding that while there's an acceptable community driver for the Smart Implant, there isn't much available for the HDSS. If I just need simple on-off switching automations based on outside triggers, should I be OK just using this driver with the default setup?

You should be fine. If at all possible, I would get a Z-Stick to use as a secondary controller and pair it with no security though.

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This driver worked fine for me...but the built in generic Zwave plus outlet or switch driver works just fine... and also the Aeotec smart energy switch driver works too.

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Yup. Shopping the Zooz right now, CA$65 on amazon dot see eh, US39 on dot com, or US$30 on thesmartesthouse. Amazon.ca I can have by Monday, the other two I won't be able to pick up until a week or 10 days from now... Monday might be worth the extra 20 bucks.

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It’s actually not a waste for me to get the Z stick, as I have another HDSS that I’m going to use to control my car’s EVSE to take advantage of lower electricity rates. I also have the Aeotec 120V plug, plus a couple of discontinued HomeSeer devices (FLS-100+) that won’t be getting Edge drivers, and all three had been running with Webcore pistons so they’ll be moving over to HE as well.

Let me know if this driver successfully changes parameters for you. I had to do them all manually. Going to no security didn't help.

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I got this error in the log. Doesn't seem to have impacted anything.

The dryer was running, and as far as I can tell from the event log the device was just sending power data.

Please forgive the newbie questions again. Thank you again for all your (and the Community’s) work on this!

I’m having an annoying time getting things to work like they did with Groovy ST. For one reason or another, regardless of the driver I use, Alexa sees the HDSS as a temperature sensor even though I have temperature reporting disabled, so Alexa averages the other (real) temperature sensors’ readings in the garage with the one in the HDSS and throws everything off. I can’t find a way to disable this. I’m thinking I should exclude the HDSS and start again. Should I do a NWE from the Zstick/PC Controller? Or can I just exclude from HE, then when I include do it through the secondary controller again. [I ask because my only Windows box is ancient and takes a lifetime to boot up and get going]

Are you needing the switch to show in Alexa? If not, I would just deselect it in Alexa and not bother with it. I only expose those devices I actually use Alexa to monitor and/or control. My switch stays on all the time because I am using it for a dryer and the only power monitoring is done by Hubitat. Your use case may be different though.

If I deselect it in the Alexa app, I no longer have voice control over the switch (eg when I’m in the garage and it kicks on while I’m doing something with my hands and need the heater off for whatever reason). In ST this wasn’t an issue, which is why I suspect it’s a HE driver issue. Changing to a generic switch driver didn’t modify this behavior.