[RELEASE] Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch

Have you found out how to work the table? Configuration Values for parameter 101‐103? It's a mystery to me.

I've been using the HDSS paired to ST as a simple on-off relay for a 5000W garage heater for a couple of years, but with this week's ST switchover killing off Groovy SmartApps I've lost my automations for the HDSS and a number of devices.

The HDSS had been working fine in my setup for years, and I don't need energy monitoring. It doesn't appear that either the HDSS or the Fibaro Smart Implant (with DS18B20 sensors) upon which the HDSS automations were triggered will be getting Edge drivers, so I decided to migrate them to HE. Of course now I'm finding that while there's an acceptable community driver for the Smart Implant, there isn't much available for the HDSS. If I just need simple on-off switching automations based on outside triggers, should I be OK just using this driver with the default setup?

You should be fine. If at all possible, I would get a Z-Stick to use as a secondary controller and pair it with no security though.

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This driver worked fine for me...but the built in generic Zwave plus outlet or switch driver works just fine... and also the Aeotec smart energy switch driver works too.

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Yup. Shopping the Zooz right now, CA$65 on amazon dot see eh, US39 on dot com, or US$30 on thesmartesthouse. Amazon.ca I can have by Monday, the other two I won't be able to pick up until a week or 10 days from now... Monday might be worth the extra 20 bucks.

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It’s actually not a waste for me to get the Z stick, as I have another HDSS that I’m going to use to control my car’s EVSE to take advantage of lower electricity rates. I also have the Aeotec 120V plug, plus a couple of discontinued HomeSeer devices (FLS-100+) that won’t be getting Edge drivers, and all three had been running with Webcore pistons so they’ll be moving over to HE as well.

Let me know if this driver successfully changes parameters for you. I had to do them all manually. Going to no security didn't help.

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I got this error in the log. Doesn't seem to have impacted anything.

The dryer was running, and as far as I can tell from the event log the device was just sending power data.

Please forgive the newbie questions again. Thank you again for all your (and the Community’s) work on this!

I’m having an annoying time getting things to work like they did with Groovy ST. For one reason or another, regardless of the driver I use, Alexa sees the HDSS as a temperature sensor even though I have temperature reporting disabled, so Alexa averages the other (real) temperature sensors’ readings in the garage with the one in the HDSS and throws everything off. I can’t find a way to disable this. I’m thinking I should exclude the HDSS and start again. Should I do a NWE from the Zstick/PC Controller? Or can I just exclude from HE, then when I include do it through the secondary controller again. [I ask because my only Windows box is ancient and takes a lifetime to boot up and get going]

Are you needing the switch to show in Alexa? If not, I would just deselect it in Alexa and not bother with it. I only expose those devices I actually use Alexa to monitor and/or control. My switch stays on all the time because I am using it for a dryer and the only power monitoring is done by Hubitat. Your use case may be different though.

If I deselect it in the Alexa app, I no longer have voice control over the switch (eg when I’m in the garage and it kicks on while I’m doing something with my hands and need the heater off for whatever reason). In ST this wasn’t an issue, which is why I suspect it’s a HE driver issue. Changing to a generic switch driver didn’t modify this behavior.

Gotcha. So, your use case IS different.

Have you tried putting the switch in it's own room? Or are you getting the average of all the sensors in the whole house?

Yeah that's what I've been playing with this afternoon. It removes some of the ease of use having to say the name of the device if it's not in the same room as me, ie "Alexa, turn off the Heater" becomes "Alexa turn off the Garage Heater," but I can live with that. But so far that hasn't worked out as easily as I thought. The Rule isn't being triggered when I move the HDSS (aka "Garage Heater") to a Group called "Other."

The other option would be to create a virtual switch, and write a rule so that when that witch turns on, the Heavy Duty Switch turns on and the same when it turns off.

Then, put the virtual switch in Alexa and remove the Heavy Duty switch from Alexa.

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FYI: thesmartesthouse doesn't ship to Canada, so you'd need to figure out a freight forwarding situation as well.

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Yeah that’s not a worry for me, I have a place in the Adirondacks. But I needed it asap so I ordered on Amazon dot see eh.

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If you're planning on using a Z-stick to include this switch without security (highly recommended!!), the install process for the Silicon labs tools (which you'll need to include the device without SO security) is different for the latest download (as of February 2023).

Use this first to get the z-stick up and running on your PC. I ordered the Zooz version from amazon.ca

Then look at this PDF to learn how to include/exclude devices without security in HE. It looks at first glance to be related to removing ghost devices, but it also includes instructions on how to include a device without security on page 8. You'll need this pdf to figure out how to get the z-wave stick set up for inclusion etc.

I'm happy to report that the switch now works correctly for the first time in over a year since installing it in HE (where SO security was forced). Using this driver AND having the 240V switch joined to the HE hub without security using a Z-stick zWave controller did the trick. It now reports power more or less instantly from the induction cooktop connected to it, and reliably controls the kitchen exhaust fan. It's also no longer on the top of the list for device stats in the logs.

It was a bit of a slog to install the z-wave stick PC tools (see my comments above), and I did have to factory reset the device and include/exclude a few times. That said, having the 240 volt power reported reliably (without constant polling/refresh via an automation) was important as I wanted the kitchen exhaust to work reliably, as well as the home HRV system which is also cranked to full speed (via HE and 0-10 volt fan control) when the kitchen induction range is in use.



I am trying to include this unit to my z-wave network, but can't get Hubitat to recognize it, is there a trick to include it? LED is blinking red, and I am pushing the button once to include it, but nothing happens...

Have you already tried excluding it first? Sometimes, you need to run exclusion first, then run the inclusion so that it will connect to a hub

Double click was the trick