I prefer the form factor of the Jasco just because it looks more rugged. The Aeotec seems like my only choice at the moment.
The wiring diagram of the Aeotec is throwing me off a bit as it says the hot from one phase should be a black wire and the other blue. I am making the assumption that it may another black, not blue. But I'm not totally familiar with two phase 220V wiring (in the U.S.).
As an aside, it is an amusing story about why I'm thinking of power monitoring my well pump. Everything else in the house is monitored but not this. But it will be. It seems that a little crack in the PVC connecting well head to house caused the pump to run continuously for weeks without anyone knowing it. That in turn caused my electric bill to spike and the pump to burn out. Said pump is 300 feet in the earth. The several thousand dollar repair job fixed the pump, but not the leak. They are still digging up my driveway looking for the crack. It's been Monday all day.
That looks perfect, and at 50A a little bit more capable.
I've decided I need to look further into exactly what the wiring is. The presence of white wires at the pressure switch had me thinking neutral. But in fact, the white wire is the other phase. There is no need for neutral (for the pump) because the voltage potential is between the two hots, not involving a neutral. (I'm just speaking out loud here as I come to this realization). So, I may not have a neutral at all.
In that case, I may have to go with a clamp instead, in which case I'd lose ability to turn on/off, but the main thing I need to know is runtime.
FWIW this user stated they could never get the ZW078 to 100% work in HE, may be worth searching around some more on before you get that particular device.
I am also always willing to assist with a custom driver if needed to unlock the full potential of a z-wave device. Can usually be done one way or another as long as it pairs to the hub.
Do you need actual power monitoring or just an indication that the pump is running? If only indication, a relatively cheap option would be to use a dumb current switch connected to your favorite contact sensor.
Also, just for clarity, household power in the US is commonly referred to as 120/240 split-phase.
That would be my preference, but now I'm not certain I have neutral at the location of the well pump's current DPST switch. I need to look into that. I believe the wires are 10-2, not 10-3, so there you only be the two legs of 220 and no neutral. But perhaps I can wire this closer to the breaker box and run a new 10-3 there.
Having the heavy-duty smart switch would give me indication the pump is running as well as the ability to cut off the well with an automation on a leak in the crawl space. I do have automated valve on the house side of the reservoir but also short segment of irrigation system plumbing before the reservoir that I can only cut off by cutting power to the well.
That said, 99% of what I want to achieve is the simple indication the pump is running. By dumb current switch do you mean something like the Aeotec ZW095-A or something even more simple? At this point, I am prioritizing ease of installation so quite interested in a simple current sensor.
Let me be more clear:
I use the Aeotec for whole house monitoring. It is at the breaker panel.
The Aeotec switch is 240v, with no neutral, like yours.
The power readings I post above were from that.
Here is a picture:
edit: I like the dumb approach, but I shut my pump off when I leave the house.
So you have an Aeotec clamp sensor like the ZW078 at the breaker for whole house energy monitoring. But in addition, you have an Aeotec switch for both energy monitoring of the pump and on/off. Gotcha.
But in your picture, there is no neutral. I thought the Aeotec switch need a neutral not for the load, but the switch itself operates on 120V.
Yes, I just took a second look and that is perfect, but I assumed it would need a neutral but that isn't mentioned. And taking a closer look at the Aeotec after seeing @velvetfoot photo, I'm wondering where I thought neutral was required. In fact, one of the reviews of the Aeotec says that unlike the description, no neutral required.
Good point. Although there are many Sinope devices in the Hubitat compatibility list, the Sinope RM3250ZB isn't one of them. That said, Sinope says the Zigbee version is compatible with Hubitat with no gateway required ...
Looks like you've already got a path forward, but I'll share this link anyway because it's so useful. Current sensor can go on either leg of the 220 service... does not need to be the neutral.
The Emporia Vue 2 with clamp on measuring devices will provide the information. Pick from, seconds, minutes, days , months. Unit of measurement amps, watts, dollars ..
