While I await my receipt of the unit, I am planning installation steps. It appears that it can be wired either 120V or 220V with no switches or jumpers to tell it which one. It does what in the digital world would be called logic seeking - it figures it out on its own, or like newer Jasco switches with line and load.
With this assumption, I would like to temporarily wire the line side 120V with lamp cord (observing hot/neutral), with no load attached, and then make sure it will pair and operate as expected. If it passes that proof of concept, then I start the permanent installation with 220V line and load.
I run the Jasco one on an electric water heater at our second house. 4500W @ 250V or 18A. It has no problems. It turns on when someone enters the house, and shuts off 24 hours after all motion detectors are inactive.
It's actually one of the few Z-wave devices I haven't had any trouble with.
I just recently put this in service for exactly the circumstances you're talking about @HAL9000 .
It came up fine, pairing w/o drama, and has been rock solid so far. I use 1000watts as a threshold for operating/not-operating and trigger controls or notifications on that.
BUT....I came here looking for posts/threads discussing the device's indicated watts and other people's experiences.
I am pretty consistently reading the equivalent of ~6 amps running, when calculating for amps (watts/220v). I expected, and indeed measured ~8 amps running, off one leg with a clamp on amp meter.
I believe @mike.maxwell has a RM3250ZB , I wonder if he or anyone else using one has validated the watts reading off them.
I will add that, even if the reading is off by calculation or by actual measurement, it is nice to see what the pump is doing on a relative basis as "increasing power use is often a precursor to pump failure". Having to urgently change a down hole pump is not a good situation to be in.
Not to side track more than what one reply might allow; tell me...
did a "pro-active/when you had time" pump replacement generally price less than a "crisis mode" pump replacement?
I just realized I never did as promised and come back with a report. So here goes. It works perfectly for my needs. I mounted it right beside the reservoir. I did move the code-required physical switch to the other side of the load controller so a plumber or whatever could know they've got power cut to the well without relying on some new-fangled gadget. I also left a service loop of 12-2 Romex so the load controller could be bypassed easily should I get some plumber or inspector or house buyer that doesn't appreciate home automation and insist it be removed.
By the way, I tested it using 120V lamp cord connected to line and neutral, and pair it and played with it like that before installing permanently on 220V. So the load controller works either way. I also thought it was cool that you could reverse the input and output terminals so you wouldn't have to mount it upside down should your wiring come from a different direction than the design assumes.
I am using the "Load Controller RM3250ZB with energy meter" driver by Samuel Cuerrier Auclair but do not use its functionality for tracking costs, etc. That's not what I'm using it for. I track number of times it has run by triggering on change to > 100W and keeping a daily run count, reset at midnight. Every day at 5 AM, I check to see how many times the well pump has run since midnight. If non-zero, it sends me an alert that there could be a leak (I probably will make this smarter if we ever start delaying the dishwasher, etc.).
