That is because the person who converted the driver from ST did not do a complete job. The ST version allows the app to create pushbutton tiles to control the doors. HE does not have the same tile interface as ST does, so the "create on/off push buttons?" option is not required. The "Garage (control)" dashboard tile will access the MyQ Lite device without needing the pushbuttons...
So... Select "no" when asked "create on/off push buttons?" and you should be fine.
Thanks so much. I was confused by the name of the device. I was looking for MyQ. As they say, I picture is worth a thousand words.
It's working. I canceled my Amazon order for the Z-Wave Tilt Sensor. I have 2 Rules to set the Virtual Tilt Sensor open and closed, based on the GoControl Contact. I'm sure they can be consolidated into a single Rule using IF. A project for another day.
On to the Locks, then the feared Wink Relay fix.
Yes. The rule would be something like this:
Trigger:
GoControl sensor *changed*
Action:
IF (GoControl Sensor open) THEN
Set Virtual Tilt Sensor to Open
ELSE
Set Virtual Tilt Sensor to Closed
END-IF
Make sure you have a really good z-wave+ repeater near the HE and another close to the lock before pairing your z-wave locks. The Wink Relay will be fine - both switches can be controlled independently. Happy to send you links to get those going ...
With the current free MyQ API access, and/or Amazon Key linked to MyQ, is there any feasible way to make this work with the no-sensor version? I'm not finding any IFTTT access to key. I'm not opposed to picking up the ecolink tilt sensor, nor performing the mercury switch reliability mod but don't need to spend needlessly.
A contact sensor would be cheaper.
I have magnetic contact/door/window sensors but they're Iris V2 and can be somewhat flakey with true status at times. Mounting a tilt sensor would be simpler, but I've seen reference in the threads that using two contact sensors in both open and close states is more reliable.
I don't really have an issue using the MyQ app if needed, but had door open triggering lighting events in the old solution and really prefer that over presence detection.
The general consensus here is that Iris V2 sensors are great - and very fast (much faster than z-wave/z-wave+ sensors). I'd recommend building out a decent zigbee mesh (Ikea Tradfri outlets and Securifi Peanuts are both relatively inexpensive zigbee outlets that are great repeaters).
Edit - I've read that one repeater per 5 sensors is a good ratio.
Just noticed the following in my logs. I think I'm running the latest version of the app and driver. Anyone seen this?
Did you try to create momentary buttons when you set it up?
I did create the momentary buttons when I set it up. The buttons are working when I press them, but I'm seeing this in the logs.
I have one or two that seem to flip true state open vs closed. Fresh batteries in all.
One sensor seemed to improve only with getting the magnet very close to the sensor.
I'm using only two Cree bulbs as repeaters, one at one end of the house on the main floor, the other near the opposite end in the basement ceiling. The office is on the 2nd floor, mid house location.
Maybe I need a few of those outlets?
If it helps, here's my zigbee routing:
Child Data
child:[Office Iris, 8CAC, type:EMBER_SLEEPY_END_DEVICE]
child:[DR East Window, F584, type:EMBER_SLEEPY_END_DEVICE]
child:[Closet Iris, B24B, type:EMBER_SLEEPY_END_DEVICE]
child:[Family Room Door, 6FAB, type:EMBER_SLEEPY_END_DEVICE]
child:[Dishwasher Leak Sensor, 1BAF, type:EMBER_SLEEPY_END_DEVICE]
child:[Garage Side Door, C8AB, type:EMBER_SLEEPY_END_DEVICE]
child:[Fridge Leak Sensor, 1118, type:EMBER_SLEEPY_END_DEVICE]
child:[LR East Window, 6C0B, type:EMBER_SLEEPY_END_DEVICE]
Neighbor Table Entry
[Family Room Light, 8783], LQI:238, age:3, inCost:5, outCost:4
[Safe Light, A47B], LQI:159, age:4, inCost:7, outCost:4
Route Table Entry
status:Active, age:64, routeRecordState:0, concentratorType:None, [DR West Window, 0717] via [Safe Light, A47B]
status:Active, age:64, routeRecordState:0, concentratorType:None, [Bathroom Window, 279E] via [Family Room Light, 8783]
status:Unused
status:Active, age:64, routeRecordState:0, concentratorType:None, [Patio Door, 5800] via [Family Room Light, 8783]
status:Active, age:64, routeRecordState:0, concentratorType:None, [LR West Window, DAEB] via [Safe Light, A47B]
status:Active, age:32, routeRecordState:0, concentratorType:None, [Basement Door, 08C8] via [Family Room Light, 8783]
status:Active, age:64, routeRecordState:0, concentratorType:None, [Safe Light, A47B] via [Safe Light, A47B]
status:Active, age:64, routeRecordState:0, concentratorType:None, [Kitchen Window, 4384] via [Safe Light, A47B]
status:Active, age:64, routeRecordState:0, concentratorType:None, [Family Room Light, 8783] via [Family Room Light, 8783]
status:Active, age:64, routeRecordState:0, concentratorType:None, [Fridge Sensor, 1472] via [Safe Light, A47B]
I'm also seeing the Iris 3210-L outlets have both zigbee and Zwave+ and while some users report problems pairing the zwave, they seem to work well. Thoughts?
Sorry to derail the MyQ thread.
Bulbs in general, but Cree bulbs in particular are undesirable repeaters. @april.brandt just went through a lengthy, careful, debugging process before conclusively arriving at the conclusion.
The Tradfri plugs are very good repeaters.
These are regarded quite highly as well. I don't have any, but there are others here who do.
Great info!
I don't mind ditching the Cree bulbs. I had less issues with them than the GE Link bulbs on W*.
Maybe with Hubitat, I'll revisit the GE bulbs instead.
Thanks! Off to buy a lot of 5 of those Iris plugs on flea-bay
One last question, I promise.
What are your thoughts on the Sengled bulbs/strips?
Seems the GE Link bulbs are possibly as troublesome as the Cree. I expect I'll need to repair the zigbee mesh with them offline after I get the Iris plugs going...
I have the Sengled A19 RGBWs. I really like them. Great color rendition and since they don't route, they cause no zigbee mesh issues.
Your really helping me a lot. I appreciate it! Do you live anywhere near South Florida?
Unfortunately, as a first step in converting my Wink Relay for Hubitat, I preformed a hard reset, and the operating system never rebooted. I like that thing a lot. It was in my entry way and just where it needed to be to make changes to my system when entering or leaving the house. The fact it had 2 switches and the perfect form factor for where it was mounted were just extras. I don't see anything comparable to replace it with.
The locks went without incident. Thanks for the tip.
I don't have a Relay. I would post to the Wink Relay integration thread. I know others have them working for sure.
I did. From what I read elsewhere, the switch to turn the wifi off, in the underlying Android system sometimes toggles off. This keeps the Wink Operating System from Booting, and it loops.
From Metairie, LA I see. In Micro. Do you work for Oshner?
Download the Hubitat app
