It's OK to suggest something for someone to use but it is RUDE to badmouth someone else's suggestion. I really get tire of your negativity!!
The whole point of the post was the OP wanted to save money. Your suggestion was not helpful at all. And i didn't bad mouth it. I simply said I wouldn't pay $45 for that. That's my opinion. I'm not allowed to disagree?
Sometimes saving money is not the answer. Hacking a peanut breaks all the codes and having someone do that could burn down their house. The idea here is to help the OP solve his issue. Leaving out the jabs, stabs and sarcasm. $45 for a solution is not that bad. Garage door openers are much higher so my suggestion does save him money because it is much cheaper than a garage opener and much safer than a homemade solution.
Your statement piques my curiosity. What do you mean by "hacking"? The peanut plug has a binary switch that is meant to turn on and off.
How is it hacking to set the "off" to occur at a specific time after the "on"?
And what codes are being broken by using a Peanut as a timed switch?
Also, how is the relay you suggested any different in function from the other two relays suggested earlier in this thread?
Edit:
These were the relays described earlier:
The way it was said in the quote below suggests just that, hacking.
And then you said... and no where in this thread did anyone say they were connecting the relay to the peanut via an extension cord with plug and bare ends.
So that is where I got it from. With the device I suggested there is no DIY and not a lot of wires (connected to 120AC) running everywhere. Peanut....the suggested device plugged directly into the peanut.... then to the garage door opener.
The device you suggested is functionally the same as the device suggested by @jon1. With the same connection to the peanut. His device is also a fully enclosed SPDT relay with a 120V coil. And it comes with a 120V plug-in cord to connect to the Peanut.
I used a lamp cord and female spade terminals to connect the Peanut I used. And mounted everything in a work box. Admittedly more work than the devices suggested by @jon1 or you. But no less safe. And it definitely meets electrical code.
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@aaiyar Now I understand what you are doing. The bottom relay has a cord, I did not see that, so that is great. The top relay a little more dangerous. So being that the bottom relay is functionally like the one I suggested, but cheaper, would definitely work. I didn't find that one when looking. I was just trying to simplify it but I am not that critical on price, to an extent. Actually I like the lower relay over the ZFM-80 that I am using. Anyway it's all in what we like. Yea when I misunderstood and thought you guys were hacking the peanut I got a little worried. Thanks for straightening that out.
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So, don’t know if anyone cares but thought I would share. All said and done took 15 minutes and it’s all done! Thanks everyone.
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Nice. And I'm assuming it is working well for you? Did you use a tilt sensor or a contact sensor for the door?
I used a tilt sensor. The newest Samsung multisensor to be exact.
It works well, I did have to change the amount of time it stays on though. Otherwise my garage would only open/close a bit before returning to the previous state.
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I thought I'd add my adventure here. Had a couple wall-warts from some Poe cameras 12V 1A, and a couple of old Xfinity sercomm outlets laying around. Couldn't find my spare wire after installing the openers a few years back so used some 4wire conductor I had laying around. Bought a couple of 12V 4 pin relays from eBay for $2.50 a piece and put it all together. So for about $5.00 total I have my garage automated.
Thanks to everyone for the info.
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This is the type I used, it's a 4 pin 12V automotive relay. You can get them without the fuse if you want too. They are on Amazon with 2 day shipping as well if you dont want to wait for shipping from China.
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Hey guys for anyone visiting I just wanted to share something. I was having a lot of alerts and weird problems with the Zigbee mesh in my garage. I replaced the peanut plug with an Ikea outlet and it all went away.
So not sure if it's the peanut plug's fault, but it does seem like it was causing me some issues.
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Are you using any sensors to know if the door is open or shut?
Yes, you would need that - either a contact sensor or a tilt sensor.
Which terminals do the wires connect too? My garage door has 3, labeled 1, 2, 3. I assume based on the current wiring (I rent this place) it is for the sensors and the button by the door. So if I were to implement this, how would I wire it up (Ex. C goes to 1 and NO goes to 3)? I have a Craftsman 1/2 HP.
It would go to the same terminals as the door button. And since it is just a dry contact relay - it doesn't matter which conductor goes where.
Ok got it. It looks like the door switch is going to 1-2. So I'll use those.
I am going to use a smart things Zigbee outlet. Do I need a special app? I also would like to send this through the homebridge app I have. Is that possible also?
So your planning on using the Smartthings Outlet to power up a relay, whose Normally Open contacts are going to be in parallel with your door button ?
That’d work.
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