My basic wiring of the relay to my Liftmaster Garage Door openers is inducing a failure mode I don't understand. These openers can be controlled by via the MyQ app. All seems OK until I go to open a door. From the MyQ app, I can initiate an open operation and as it opens, I get a red issue (!) "3-1" and several buttons on the unit start flashing. I also notice that light on the wall button is not lit. If I send a command through the app to close the door, it does and the issue goes away.
My setup is quite basic. Two garage door openers wired per the instructions I found at getzooz kb article "1128-how-to-use-the-zen17-universal-relay-as-a-garage-door-opener-on-hubitat". The second door opener is on R2. I also have two NC magnetic sensors wired into S1 and S2. The Common (C) is a shared line.
I have a 12VDC power supply that can supply up to 2A. The Liftmaster openers use a single button with a light and a learn/light button on the side.
When the Zen17 is not powered, all works well from the wall buttons and from the MyQ app; no issues reported. However, when I power up the Zen17, that is when things get interesting. If I send a command via the app or by a botton press, the door starts moving and then the issue shows up on the app and button on the wall goes dark.
I had one failure mode with both doors reporting issues on the app and noticed that the blue lighten the Zen17 was out. Resetting it (4 quick presses followed by another 4) recovered things ... until the next operation.
I did a quick search and didn't get an obvious hit.
I am not even started the process of adding the drivers and device to my Hubitat C8 Pro. The first step is just to have things wired up where the normal MyQ app and wall buttons work as expected.
If it's yellow (Security+ 2.0), the you'll need to add in a Garadget when using a basic smart relay like the Z16/17.
Edit - welcome to the community! If the Garadget proves to be the necessary missing link, next check out this community driver for the Z17 - it exposes all of the parameters and works incredibly well.
Yes, the learn button is yellow. The control button on the wall looks exactly like the Garadget you reference.
If it matters, when the door is opening or closing, the light is mostly on. It blinks off for a fraction of a second two or three times.
I have a working assumption that the original installation, including buttons that appear to be Garadget, will continue work as before. The Zen17 is wired in "parallel" as seen in the Instructions found in that KB article I reference. I'm stumped. I may try and scrounge up a different 12VDC power supply. The one I'm using is from a router I am no longer using.
I will definitely take a look at that driver ... once the I get my basic wiring settled.
Using a basic relay, there's no way to get around the Security+ 2.0 stuff without a Garadget. Well, check that, I think there may be some way you can solder in the relay to avoid it, but I'm not certain -- you'd have to search the community here for more on that (I have no soldering skills, so it's not something I ever looked into).
A ratgdo or Konnected BlaQ is an alternative option for getting around Sec+ 2.0 instead of using a relay/Garadget.
I am not following the, "... without a Garadget." That is what I have, wired in parallel, using the R1 NO & Common connections, per KB article. I'm not yet at the place to try and operate the GDO via the Z17, I'm just trying to get things to work with it wired up in parallel and powers on. It seems to have some sort of interaction going on that is at odds with what the Garadget is doing (and the Garadget appears to be doing something; e.g., the brief blink-off of the Garadget as the door transitions from closed/open or open/closed).
I will. Thank you. It will have to be later today, though. I'm coming off vacation and ... surprise! ... my office didn't stand still to wait for me to get back. Digging out is going to take all day. -sj
Well, this one is on me. I'm reading for the umpteenth time the zooz support article. In a blue box with white text it clearly says, "The MultiRelay will NOT work with smart openers like the myQ system." In a red highlighted box, it says, "For use with opener momentary wall switched." I think I'd read that and thought, "Yep, my wall switch is momentary." Except, now I realize there's more going on.
So ... my mistake. Thank you for the help.
The question now morphs into how to get a myQ GDO onto Hubitat?
Just to be clear, a Garadget is a wall button, but with four wires.
Two of which, when shorted together, initiate the open or close sequence of the garage door opener.
I just saw a setup posted by bkadambi where a spare remote was connected to the relay. That looks intriguing. I have a couple, one opened up right now. This looks doable, assuming I can keep my hands steady enough to make the soldered connections. -sj
I would recommend the Garadget option over using a spare remote. You don't need to worry about battery life with the Garadget option. It is also cleaner.
I think you have won me over. In effect, what I'd be trying to do is solder to very tiny touch points on the backside of the momentary switch in the remote, the same thing that Garadget does. I just disassembled the wall switch and confirmed that I could do something with the momentary contact on the backside like Garadget presumably has done, except that I'd run a real risk of messing something up. Time is money. I think I will invest in one and see how well it works before doing another.
I tried to attach some pics of my work-to-date but I am prevented from actually posting my reply.
I have two GDOs. A main double door and then a single bay for my home wood shop. The ideas is to have the wall switches on the cover of a utility box mounted in the wall. Inside would be all the needed gadgetry to make it work with Hubitat.
Looking at the Garadget, I think I could simply reroute the lamp cord wire through the same opening (or a slightly reworked one) into the interior of the box and keep the overall clean look I have now (there's zero visible wiring on the cover of the utility box.
Thank you all for nudging me toward Garadget. I researched it and similar solutions, eventually deciding to have a go at making my own. It has been a while since I did soldering and needed steady hands. (Remember the Sony Walkman TPS (I think)? Barely larger than an actual cassette case. Someone gave me one with a broken corner on an internal circuit board. I traced connections and successfully jumped them, returning it to full function.)
The Zen17 is now wired in to the newly created connections to the momentary contact on the Liftmaster wall button. I can move on to the next phase of the project, that of connecting the Zen17 to Hubitat, get drivers installed and update parameters.
