I also recently purchased some of the EcoLink Flood and Freeze sensors. Got them included, setup HSM alerts and almost gave myself a heart attack last night. I placed one of these sensors in my hot water heater pan (In the attic) and around midnight last night while sound asleep, HSM did exactly what I asked it to do... Siren going off, lights flashing, phone buzzing, except there was no water leak (Except possibly in my pants =).
I think the generic driver is treating freeze events as "wet", because last night it got pretty cold outside, which is unusual for the area I live in. Is there any way to handle freeze and wet events separately or is there a different driver I should be using?
Sorry for my ignorance, I am very new to Hubitat.
Ever get anywhere with controlling the 2 SPST switches in the Intermatic CA3750? (I want to use it to control spa equipment but need both switches controlled independently. )
I hereby nominate the Intermatic HA20C in-wall Z-Wave dimmer, with fingerprint mfr:"0005", prod:"4841", deviceId:"0020", inClusters:"0x26,0x27,0x73,0x85,0x86,0x72"
If you like, I can provide you the related "D_DimmableLight1.xml" device type file from my Vera system, or any of its implementation file(s), etc.
This is an old zwave device that does not report its status back automatically to the controller.
The driver to use is Generic Zwave Dimmer. And then, use the built in Zwave Poller app to poll this switch so the hub keeps track of the current status of the dimmer.
Also, without polling, the dimmer will not be controlled well by voice assistants like Alexa. Three final things:
- Click Configure each time you change drivers.
- The “Smart” drivers are for zwave+ devices.
- Consider replacing it with a zwave+ device like a Zooz or iNovelli dimmer.
Input much appreciated, and fully implemented.
Good news and bad news. The bad news is none of that helped, and the Intermatic HA20C thwarts all attempts (by the Hubitat, directed by Alexa) to dim it according to voice input. Whereas my only other such dimmer (paired with a Vera Plus) has absolutely no such problem.
The good news is that ON and OFF still work, and your help got me back to using the correct driver for this device, as well as understanding Hubitat's behavior a little more deeply.
So thanks!
Ok, we're going to get this working. Let's try this instead:
- Create a virtual dimmer and expose that to the Amazon Echo Skill on Hubitat.
- Setup the built-in Mirror app, so that the real Intermatic dimmer mirrors the virtual dimmer.
- Turn on debug logging for both the virtual and Intermatic dimmer.
- Keep a log page open.
Use Alexa to control the virtual dimmer. The real dimmer should change as well. In either event, post a screenshot of the logs page.
Gotta tell you that I'm just tickled that I was able to do all the steps you outlined, update Alexa, and get back here to begin typing this reply within about 2 minutes ... whereas back in the Vera ecosystem, the process would have required half a day plus some coding to establish all the mirrored behavior(s).
Good news is that the setup appears to be working, at least insofar as everything I ask Alexa to do to "Mirror Light" (my virtual dimmer) is reflected on "Dining Room Light" (actual switch), so SUCCESS!
Now, if I could only persuade Mirror Light to have as one of its Preferences the (now deprecated??) "Pre-Staging Level" because I would like every manual turn-on of the physical switch to raise the light to 60%. The solution to that is non-obvious (to me) – Basic Rule app? – because I'm still stuck thinking in old Vera ways.
Meantime, THANK YOU for helping so quickly and expertly. This community kicks the llama's ■■■!
- LibraSun
Glad it's working!
Please continue using z-wave poller for that dimmer. It is necessary for this setup to work .....
Well I have a confession to make which will make me look rather silly. Never satisfied when "Things are working fine", on a whim, I ventured back into my Amazon Alexa > Smart Home > Devices list and noticed something...
To my horror, it revealed that the OLD copy of "Dining Room Light" (which had belonged to Vera but was no longer paired with her) remained in the list. Oops!
"WAS THAT WHY I was getting the "Device not responding" message from Alexa?" I wondered aloud. To test this theory, I removed that defunct copy of "Dining Room Light" - muttering to myself, "How dumb that I named them both the same" - and dismantled all my "fixes" over on Hubitat. Remove virtual dimmer, remove Mirror app, etc.
Re-ran Alexa discovery. Found "Dining Room Light" (plain old Intermatic HA20C physical switch). I verbalized "On" and "Off" commands. Fine. I verbalized a "Dim" command ... also working fine now!
Guys, so sorry that I caused all this commotion over a n00b oversight, by not carefully grooming the Devices list at alexa.amazon.com before posting. (Thought I had, but obviously had not.)
Mea culpa. Still, hey, I learned things along the way!!
No need to feel a bit silly or embarrassed about it. This is something I had to discover the hard way, as well. Any time you're moving to a new platform, there's a little bit of a learning curve.
I've had to rely on the awesome Hubitat Community to help me figure out a good few simple little things I had overlooked. I don't think anyone here is going to shame you at all for having to figure something out. 
I have one device that is actually on the list of compatible devices but the built in driver does not work properly. Its the ZXT-600 by Remotec. The driver works for control but you are unable to program it from the built in driver. I actually emailed support about this not too long ago, but no response just yet. Here is the workaround from myself and others. Remotec ZXT-600 Issues with Built-In Driver - #16 by chad.andrews
Separate question, is there a Zigbee thread for missing or incomplete drivers? Like to have something for my StelPro Orleans Heaters (Zigbee Ki).
