Reliable chatty temperature sensor with external power needed

I need a reliably connected temperature sensor for a 3d printer enclosure. Zigbee seems to be a more stable interface than Z-Wave so it is preferred. I can supply a power supply external from batteries so power would not be a problem. I have already tried the Xiomi Aqara (square sensor) but it does not stay connected. I tried the Everspring ST814 with the same problem on Z-Wave. I am trying an Aeon Gen 5 but am not hopeful.

I know you say you prefer Zigbee, but I would recommend the Fibaro smart implant zwave device with attached DS18B20. You could also easily attach other sensors. Here is the manual.

I use the SmartThings buttons for my refrigerators. I wired in a AA battery pack and itโ€™s been a year with no disconnects and still at 100%.

@iharyadi's devices are very fast with updates and a Zigbee repeater. I can't seem to copy the link so search for "homemade temperature" here to find it.

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These Ecolink zigbee door / window sensors were great value and work very reliably.
See here
The internal PCB is very small and they can be easily modded for external power but Iโ€™m not sure where the actual temp sensor is.

st814 work great even from inside a freezer and wine fridge i have 12 between two houses and none disconnect so if you are having these issues i would look at your zwave mesh first and add some repeaters.

How do you get temperature from a door/window sensor @njanda?

The ST814 is working. I thought it had disconnected because it wasn't chatty enough. I have the Aeon Gen 5 multi sensor working as well and I can give it external power on a USB cable which is great.

Please elaborate on what SmartThings buttons you refer to @ken_Fraleigh.

It looks like Samsung is discontinuing them, but you may be able to find them with google

have you tried the settings.. if you set temp and humidity to 1 minute and the percentage to the lowest it gets pretty chatty. The reason i like it is i dont need or want it that chatty especially with ones in the freezers .. id rather have the batteries last longer.. i only need every couple of degree reports. depends what you are using it for.. Chattier ones put more of a load on your hub.. if you have too many that is not good. In fact i have the oposite problem my aeon is too chatty and i removed it for that reason and the one i have i cannot get it to not report every 10-20 secs.

@ [Ken_Fraleigh, I don't see how it reads temperature. It is a push button.

Like this..

The Ecolink's have temp sensors inside them. A bonus feature. :slight_smile:

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You can set them against a reference thermometer, but I like the fact that I havenโ€™t had to do that. They have all been close enough out of the box.

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Are any of you able to help me with a Fibaro Smart Implant? I've got my hands on one but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get a temp reading from a Ds18B20 probe.

I've connected the probe to the implant. Included it, configured to add a single external probe. when I look at the child I can see it has a temp but it never moves from 20C (I'm in the UK).

What am I doing wrong?

So I need the 4.7K Ohm resistor between GND and VCC?

Would someone who has this working help me figure where I'm going wrong?


Did you install and update the custom drivers? There are 5 drivers for the Smart Implant.

I started a z-wave search, I put the device in inclusion mode. HE adds it with the default driver.

It's working fine, internal temp of the device is present, the child never updates???

Did you connect the temp probe before including it in HE or after.

I believe that you have to include the smart implant in HE only after having connected the sensors but not 100% sure about this (I don't have one yet).

Try removing it from HE, reset the smart implant and then include in HE again.

Tried all that. I've tried the removal and include with the device attached. No success. I don't have the 4.7k resistor mentioned in some forums present. I'm no left looking for someone who has this working to tell me I'm being thick :slight_smile:

Actually that 4.7k resistor is usually only used for the small package version of the probe, if you are using the waterproof version you will not need one but some say that adding a 1k resistor can help in certain situations.

Sorry if I can't help more than that, I only use them with self made circuits (arduino, esp8266, etc.), hope someone will be able to help you.

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