That's the same opener buttons I have, curious on your wiring. Did you just wire the relay terminals to the button in parallel so it is basically acting like a second button? Not using the SW connections at all? That's basically how mine is wired except its on the ceiling near my single opener. That was the only way I could keep the green LED working on the button, getting the voltage from the opener. Might be better to move it over by the button eventually so its closer to the rest of the zwave network.
The only down side is that the Zen16 is not aware of when you push the button manually (due to no SW connection), so the system relies on the tilt sensor to know when the door is opening or closing. If the door was open and started closing but stopped halfway the tilt sensor would not have even triggered yet. Just a relatively minor thing but it annoys me.
This was the alternate wiring method shown in the documentation on the web. I don't believe it was in the printed instructions I received, The purpose is to allow control of the light.
I had previously installed tilt sensors to show the door status on a dashboard.
Someone else reported this before and when I saw that I switched all mine to "Turn all Relays Off". Really the relays should always be off anyway except for maybe the 2 seconds it makes contact to open the door. As someone else said, the "Toggle Switch" setting might be causing this as well although I cant recall the exact difference between that and the default setting.
To check it, run your test again but check the "Switch" status on each relay before you kill the power, it will say ON or OFF. If it says ON, with your current settings it would then turn ON when power comes back which would then open the door. If it says OFF but still opens the door when it powers up it is probably some sort of firmware bug. Safest bet is to change the setting to Turn All OFF.
If you are using the garage door app from Zooz, the switch type can be set to the default of "Toggle Switch (any change)" as long as you have the setting in the app to turn off the relay after 2 seconds. Or you can set it to Garage Door and disable that feature in the app. For me it seemed to be more reliable to let the app do it, it seemed like when I had it set to Garage door it would get stuck sometimes. Not sure if it was the device or due to the -10F and lower temps we had for weeks.
Many thanks for the help! Power failure is now handled properly.
All seems well now except that somewhere along the line I've mess up Alexa integration on two of the doors. Not a big deal if I can't fix that; it's a frill.
There are two toggle options actually, your screenshot is not showing the default but it probably works the same in your setup.
And be careful with Alexa, use the virtual lock option in the app. Otherwise someone could get crafty and yell to your Alexa through a closed window and get into the house. I just exposed the sensor itself to Alexa so I can ask if the door is open so I didn't have to deal with the virtual lock thing. To close it I use the dashboard if needed. Setup an alert also if its open more than 10 minutes I get push notifications until its closed.
Amazon figured out the shouting through the window thing a couple of years ago. Now in order to unlock or open a device you have to enable the feature and provide a four digit code which is used as a voice PIN. I feel that's a pretty secure measure.
The problem I'm having with Alexa now is finding a name for the garage doors that don't confuse her. I first tried "Garage Door X (X = 1, 2 or 3)" but she never got it right, requiring a repeat. Next I tried "Door X" and there were too many devices with the word "door" in their names and she just couldn't figure out what I want. I'm now on "G X". This one is really strange. She gets "Close Gee One" but doesn't understand "Open Gee One". She gets "Open Gee Three" but doesn't understand "Close Gee Three". She does respond correctly on all three doors if I ask "Is G X open?" It's good enough. Dashboard operation works fine.
I just figured out an interference issue with the Zooz Multirelay. I was using an external power supply and have the relay/power supply mounted directly above the GDO. The power supply generates enough electrical interference that it interferes with the wireless signal from handheld garage remotes or the homelink remotes in your car. I was not able to reliably open the garage door opener that had the relay/power supply mounted above it due to this interference.
I solved the problem by switching to USB power to eliminate the interference.
HELP - multirelay talks with but will not activate garage door motor.
Equipment: Garage Door Motor: LiftMaster Model 8075 - 1/2 HP P3 Motor (6A motor, controller wires run at 0.17A), Security+ 2.0, myQ capable; has no wall switch, only remote clickers and a remote keypad (without LCD screen) attached outside and powered with battery (not hardwired). Zooz Zen16 multi-relay: using relay 1 (15A max)
See install photo attached. I believe I followed the included instruction sheet for hardware and online instructions for HE integration.
Error:
Relay will send signal (as confirmed on HE device page), but when sending "ON" signal the motor will click and show 1 blink on "up" button then 3 blinks on "down" button, then repeats. Per motor user manual page 35, this correlates to the following:
Symptom: The door control will not function
Solution: The wires for the door control are shorted or the door control is faulty. Inspect door control wires at all staple and connection points, replace wire or correct as needed.
Troubleshooting thus far:
Using a multimeter on DC mA, I measured that the controller wire carries ~0.17A when idle, when sending a signal to controller, and when motor is running while opening/closing the door. This is far less than the 15A max load for relay 1 and than the 6A max load for my 20 gage single-core copper bell wire.
I connected to Relay 3 and got the same results.
Questions
Does anyone see an issue with my wiring setup?
I do not have a switch attached at all because I do not have one on the wall; do I need to buy a switch button and run switch wires through that and connect back to the zooz in addition to the existing relay connections?
Is this error occurring because the motor model has myQ capabilities? I'm not running myQ and don't want to, but Zooz does mention in the wiring diagram on instructions that it only works with traditional motorized garage door openers, not smart openers like the myQ system.
Did you set relay one to garage door mode so that it will only send a momentary "on" and then switch back off again? This simulated a mechanical button where you briefly click it on and a release then goes back to the off state. Possibly that opener waits for the button release before it opens and if it stays held (on) then it gives the error you are seeing?
@jtp10181 - good idea, I think so - here are my settings:
ZEN16 parent device itself is set to Device Info > Type > 'Zooz MultiRelay'
ZEN16 parent device Preferences > Switch Type for Relay 1 > 'Garage Door'
I also just now tried setting it as a 'Momentary Switch' but that did not work either.
ZEN16 child device Zooz MultiRelay-Relay 1 has Device Info > Type > 'Generic Component Switch' and is grayed out so I cannot change it
The virtual garage door switch device that I named 'Garage Door 1of1' created using Zooz app per their instructions is set to Device Info > Type > 'Zooz Garage Door'
You might need the 883LM button to investigate. Seems like this button has more capabilities than just a simple open/close so it might be sending some sort of a digital signal back to open the door and not just closing the circuit. That would explain why it complains about the wires being shorted when the relay activates, if the normal button does not work by just closing the circuit.
My older LiftMaster opener has a button with a LED and a light button, but the basic open/close function seems to just be a short circuit as the relay works fine on it. No idea how the opener knows when the light button is pushed on mine.
I think I have seen some other posts where people had to take their button apart and soldier the wires to the board inside at a certain spot for a relay to work with it. I would guess you have to figure out where the physical button shorts out on the board. Then connect the wires there so the switch board thinks the button was pushed and will send the proper signal to the opener.
Zooz support has told me any motor with myQ won’t work because it’s looking for a digital signal not just contacts. So I’ll try the Garadget @techbill suggested or the remote hack @trihokie85 did.
I just installed 3 of these pre-soldered buttons that @jtp10181 is referring to from Garadget and can attest to the fact they work great on the Liftmaster MyQ doors!
Thanks @jtp10181 and @Levahj - I got the garadget and it worked great to start.
Zooz confirmed to me that their Zen16 multirelay sends an analog signal and the myQ-equipped chamberlains need a digital signal, so the garadget seems to accomplish that conversion.
However, 2 days after install and all of the sudden it would open but would not close through Hubitat. I had not unplugged, had power go out, blocked safety sensors, or messed with anything that I know of. Unplugged both the motor and the multirelay, confirmed continuity from relay (across cable, solder, garadget, and its wires) to motor with a multimeter, plugged it all back in, and now it closes but does not open through Hubitat dashboard.
Then, while writing this I tried opening it through the device page, and it succeeded in opening and closing from there. Then it succeeded in opening and closing from the dashboard. Then it stopped responding for up.. then stopped responding for down... it's very spotty.
I'm ready to unpair and set it all up from scratch, but first can anyone think of what the issue could be so I don't repeat it?
Hard to diagnose when the issue is so unpredictable. But the one constant looks to be that the Zen16 always seems to be sending a signal. It's that the LiftMaster MyQ door does not seem to always know if it is closed or open when it receives the signal . Its out of sync sort of speak.
You are sending a blind open/close command to the MyQ door control with the Zen16.
My experience controlling the LiftMaster MyQ is using a GoControl Zwave device, not a Zen16. The GoControl has a tilt sensor that knows the status of the door before it sends a signal. The Zen16 does not know if the door is open or closed when it sends the signal. The cause of your problem is not so easy to figure out because of that.
I would start by getting a new Garaget device. Yours may be defective. It may have the ability to know the status of the door being open/closed
