you are not alone. The firmware inside Linptech seems to lock up and power cycle is the only way to fix it. I doubt it a driver issue. I have other devices around the house that just loose it after a while as well. My solution is to automatically power cycle all the Linptech devices nightly. Obviously there are many ways to accomplish this. I decided to use a USB stick which has a built in power relay and reflashed it with Tasmota. This allows the nightly power cycling to happen from within the Tasmota rules themselves instead of depending on external control from a wireless controller. I get them off Aliexpress and just reflash them in bulk. They are about $5 each. Sinilink USB Switch Module (XY-WFUSB) Configuration for Tasmota
Two of my six Linptech have had a few moments of flakiness, so I power cycle them weekly and that has been sufficient for zero problems ever since. Probably could do it even over a longer interval but in the interest of WAF I have made it weekly. 
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I tried weekly at first as well. It wasn't enough for some. No rhyme or reason. I so just said, screw it and do them all nightly. I have about 10 of these around the house.
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@alex1 Instead of rebooting the device, have you tried periodically sending a command to change the sensitivity or the detection distance?
These commands force the Linptech sensor to re-calibrate, which may effectively have the same effect as turning it off and then back on.
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I have not, however, I'd like to hear from anyone who has tried this successfully. I have a $5 solution/unit for now. If we had an option in the driver to re-calibrate nightly that would save me buying more USB sticks. I also use these sticks for other things, for example a GW1000 which losses it every couple months. The Aqura FP2 also needs power cycling.
I have only one Linptech sensor (actually, it is the Moes clone from AE), but I have never experienced lockups or instability, so I can't say for sure.
what's the current status of the Hubitat built in driver? I just upgraded to 2.3.9.x and noticed that there is one now. Features/Bugs, etc. Also, is firmware upgradeable over Zigbee from Hubitat servers to allow me stop getting via the Tuya hub and disabling the status LED? I really dont like turning on the Tuya hub just for this purpose. I've been happy with your driver when used in conjunction with the USB power control stick to power cycle automatically.
The HE inbuilt driver for the Linptech mmWave sensor was released quite a long time ago. Typically, the HE system drivers provide only basic functionalities and settings. They are focused on simplicity of use, so it is unlikely that an option to disable the status LED will ever be added. Personally, I don't use much of the inbuilt drivers because of the lack of online/offline health status.
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I'll set this up on one of my sensors and give it a run. Be interesting to see if this works... Thanks for the thought.
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Mine change sensitivity when the ac or heat comes on and hardly ever have them lock up. Have four of them.
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good to hear. Hopefully someone can report that it "never" locks up using the sensitive change.
I'm going to set up a test, which will be basically turning off all my weekly power-cycle reboots on the sensors.
I thought at first I could just turn off the reboots on the two that I had issues with, but at one point I moved some of the senses around and I just have no idea which of the six sensors I have are the two that would flake out occasionally. So I'll be testing all six of them, schedule the parameter change weekly and turn off the power cycle.
Also, it could be weeks between events, maybe four or five weeks before anything would happen, so going to have to run this test for a while to really have an idea that it's effective or not.
TL;DR: see you in 6 to 8 weeks with good news (hopefully). 
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much appreciated. I'm planning on using the power going to the smoke detectors to house a mains to 5v buck step-down to power some of these Liptech so I can mount them right on or next to the smoke detectors. Would be nice if I didn't have to shove one of those USB wifi relay in the electrical box behind the smoke detectors as well. The 5V buck step-downs should fit.
for reference, to attach flashing wires to the USB-wifi relay sticks I order this. JST 1.25mm pitch 6 pin kit. stick the 6 pin male connector onto the end of the female cable. Cut off the other end of the cable to allow attaching to a TTY Serial programmer. Dont forget to tie GPIO0 (labeled as IO0 on the silk screen of the PCB) to GND to cause the device to enter reflash mode upon power on reset. Make quick work out of refreshing a bunch of these USB sticks without the need to solder or create a special jig as some others have done.
OK, everything is set up, but sadly I lost one of my six sensors due to WAF attack. Wife made me remove one from one of our guest bedrooms as "...that thing w/the blinking blue light..." (even if covered w/a bit of electrical tape) is not allowed for this weekend while she has a friend visiting. It was fine when she had another guest a while back, but not now for some reason. Oh well. mine is not to question why... 
So the test is upon us. 
@kkossev - to get the device to re-calibrate do I have to actually change the setting? Or can I send a "high" setting to a sensor that is already set on "high" and it will still re-calibrate? Or do I need to change it to another value and then back to where I want it to get it to re-calibrate.
Below are logs from running the sensitivity settings changes from the Rule I created:
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lol, Can I assume you don't have a Tuya based hub to d/l new firmware to the "thing with the blinking blue light" and disable the "blinking blue light"?
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No I haven't bought the hub yet. It keep meaning to and then I forget again. Thanks for the reminder, maybe I'll find time to do it later today. Really need to get that blue light turned off so that she's not as worried about them. Recently I thought I was going to have to remove all of them but I may be able to keep the rest in place.
An indication that a re-calibration was performed is that the motion attribute (aka 'presence') will reset to inactive shortly after the parameter is changed. Then, if someone is in the room, the motion attribute will become active again.
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So stand in the room so it's active, send the command to change the setting, and check the events to see if presence changed to inactive and then back to active, correct?
yes
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