Maybe change the sensor for another one that is near (I know you don't have access), this can be changed without reinstalling just by going in to the child app and change the sensor, you could also select more than one and that will average both sensors. This could rule out the sensor/driver.
But I would start by removing them from MarkerAPI just to see and confirm the same behavior. Or if something else is using that sensor (can be seen at the bottom of the device page).
Go to the apps page and just under the Main vThermostat App, you will se the child apps that you click on to access that child. See bellow, both "Test vThrmostat" and "Thermostat Entrée" are child apps that can be clicked and managed.
If you are not seeing this, I would completely remove vThermostat from your system and do a fresh install with via HPM or you could also try the repair option in HPM.
Oh that's strange. Yeah that's not appearing on my apps page. Even after I uninstall/reinstall. Right after I install, I then click on "add user app", then I select the sensor & plugs to control. Then it appears in my devices, but not in my apps.
Is there a way to get the child devices to operate and report to the tenth of a degree? I tried adjusting the resolution in the creation of the child app but it always 'defaults' back to whole numbers.
I use 7 virtual thermostats for the house. 6 for HVAC automations and the other to control the fireplace. The built in virtual thermostats have two decimal places, looks terrible on a dashboard. The wife likes being able to adjust rooms to the .5 place. I have tried to explain hysteresis and all that but . . . LOL
hi @nclark , this is awesome! I've just installed it on my hubitat. I'm moving off from deltadore tydom (closed source forced cloud login crap) One question: I have electronic radiators and one of them is 2200w. Are you planning to add some hw supports above 1800w maybe? If not, I'll buy an additional non-smart relay and will pull it in with a supported smartplug.
The support is only dictated by any smart relay/plug that Hubitat can control. I actually used a cheap IKEA smart plug to control a 30A contactor with 120V coil to control a 5000W garage radiator. I also use a Shelly 1PM UL that was retrofitted in a wall mounted convection 1800W radiator and it has preformed flawlessly. You could use a Sinope 50A Load Controller to control very large radiators, no limits from the app.
@nclark actually I was thinking this through yesterday and my apologies. I done the math and 230v 15A is over 3.2kW. (ikea plug is certified to 2990W what's really above my 2200W requirement) Just got mislead by the readme.md of the repo saying 1800W.
thanks for the quick reply. I'd like to ask for your opinion before I start ordering the items.
Since its heating and its mission critical at winter time, AND I want all hardware for heating stuff the same make/model, I thought I'll buy either aeotec multisensor or aeotec temp/humidity sensor. still not decided because I prefer sensors with AAA battery where I can use eneloop rechargeables instead of growing the landfill with one time use batteries.
Also thinking about buying aeotec smartplug, that's zwave too. I have nothing else zwave in my system, everything else is zigbee but I believe zwave is more reliable.
Also, two more things:
1, I'm thinking about adding an "emergency off" if the plug is turned on constantly for over 30 minutes because that's very unlikely. I don't want to burn the house or to get a super high electricity bill.
2, I'm looking for a single but accurate temperature sensor, as well that's why I'm thinking about investing in aeotec. But: what happens if when the plug is on, and the sensor loses connection with hubitat ? If battery drains, that does not mean that read is 0c but means that no connection, If the heater is turned on when the battery drains, it will remain turned on. Assume that's why you prefer (and wisely added) more than one temperature device to the system and take the average right?
in the meantime I was installing the app and playing around with an ikea plug. I like it much so far! great job! hope you'll be around maintaining it for long
also maybe i'm doing something wrong, but if I click on "heat mode" on the tile on the dashboard, the whole app stucks. I have to turn off and on heating and then i can control. there's a popup I have to allow maybe?
That is 120V circuit like many small space heaters that people add as a supplement to the main heating.
ok, so this app does have an emergency stop function and goes in to it when it does not get a temperature update for a max of 90 minutes but can be set to be lower as you wish, this will only be active if the heater is heating, if it's idle, it should not go in Emergency stop.
This is your choice and whatever works best for you is good, the perfect sensor would be mains powered and report every minute but those are hard to find unless you make it yourself.
Not exactly sure whet you mean here, sorry.
Hope so but also hope to get more free time to implement a bunch of stuff that was asked from users of the app, I'm also looking into using the builtin virtual thermostat and have the app control it just like it's doing right now, the main reason is to make it Homekit compatible. I will have to test things out, but after some research here and there, I think it would be possible.
I am running this app with very old fibaro Zwave plugs. I am seeing them failing now and running the heater for too long, in turn heating up and making me really nervous.
I am going to replace these plugs with ones that have current and heat protection. I hear Aeotec work, but I'm thinking of Frient plugs ( Zigbee)
Hi everyone. I have the Advanced vThermostat controlling a fireplace relay. It's a Shelly Switch with a temperature sensor. It works very well, thanks for the app.
I have a routine to disable the thermostat (as a disabled device), with the intention that my spouse can then control the fireplace manually, using the wall switch to turn on and off the fireplace. But, I found that there's a recurring job "setOutletState" that runs even if the device is disabled. So, my spouse turns on the fireplace, and then this recurring job from the disabled thermostat turns the fireplace off a few seconds later. She hates that.
Someone in another thread suggested I could turn the thermostat mode to "off" instead of disabling it. But in my mind, turning a thermostat to mode "off" should indeed be turning my fireplace off aggressively. And, disabling the thermostat should be the correct way to let my spouse control it manually instead, using the switch.
Does this make sense?
Can we update the app so that disabling the thermostat device also cancels the recurring job "setOutletState"?