Hey Guys, I am still having problems with this thermostat. It seems that I have to run the rules associated with the thermostat twice before the thermostat will change setpoint temperatures. If you look at my good morning rule above, shouldn't it work correctly? I don't understand why I have to run the rule twice to make it work. Also what is the difference between ThermostatSetpoint, HeatingSetpoint and CoolingSetpoint? I just noticed that if I change the HeatingSetpoint from the devices page I have to press the tile twice to get the HeatingSetpoint to change.
HeatingSetpoint = thermostat set point in Heat mode
CoolingSetpoint = thermostat set point in cool mode
ThermostatSetpoint = current thermostat set point (which depends on what the mode is)
Which driver are you using? There's a built-in driver for the Honeywell T6; in addition, there's a community driver, now maintained by @thebearmay.
Plaster/lath can be a real enemy of z-wave. Are the laths made of wood or metal? Sometimes, plaster walls use a wire-mesh instead of laths, which is also really bad for z-wave.
No wire mesh, just wood laths. The driver is the built in for Honeywell T6.
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Then I no longer think this is a z-wave transmission issue. I would look elsewhere. Since the issue happens even with commands sent through the device page, my first inclination would be to try a different driver.
if you change drivers, be sure to press "Configure" on the device page.
OK, I will try to change the driver. Where is the community driver located.
The other driver to try is the built-in "Generic Z-Wave Plus Thermostat" driver.
I tried the Generic driver but the same thing happens. I have to do things twice to get the tstat to change. I'm sorry but I am getting very frustrated. I am use to things working better than this. I have just installed the Advanced driver you mentioned and I think it may be working better. I will let you know after further testing.
How is the thermostat paired? With no security or with S2 (authenticated/unauthenticated) or S0?
S2 Unauthenticated. I wish I knew what the difference was.
If it continues to require multiple commands for the thermostat to respond, can you re-pair the thermostat with no security (Security = None)?
I used to have a Honeywell T6, paired with no security, and never had the issues you've described.
I will try the re-pair as a last resort. I am afraid of Ghosts.
You know, it seems to me like the thermostat is going to sleep or something and needs multiple commands to wake it up. Just sayin'
Are you using it on batteries or is it powered by 24VAC?
I did not have the "C" wire in my system so I had to use the batteries.
That is exactly what is happening. This is one of those situations where it would better if the thermostat were connected to the hub via a beaming repeater. Rather than directly to the hub.
This is because beaming repeaters will repeat a command until a sleeping device wakes up. While the hub sends it just once, so the hub's radio doesn't get bogged down with retransmits.
You are exactly right. I just read in the owners manual about the sleep mode. The only way to get the unit to not sleep is to either beaming repeater or direct "C" wire 24V transformer. Now what do I do?
Just found this.
24 Volt Transformer, C Wire Adapter Thermostat, Competible with All Versions of Ring Doorbell and Thermostat for Nest Ecobee, Sensi and Honeywell, 315" Long Cable 24V Transformer.
on Amazon.
I guess that this might work?
How far is your thermostat from the furnace/air-handler. It is usually not very difficult to run something like 18/7 thermostat conductor.
That should also work, but I have no experience with that kind of wiring.
