Just a report of my experience with adding a main water line shutoff.
Recently the water company had to change my water meter. The only reason this is significant is the water meter location was blocked by two large shelving units holding my wife's good "stuff". So being cleared for the water company I decided to install an automated shutoff valve.
I ended up with a WaterCop unit for two reasons:
My main shutoff valve is not a ball valve so I would have to add another valve to use one of the actuator only systems.
The bolt on ball valve actuators all look flimsy to me.
I purchased the WaterCop controller and valve on eBay for $70 for the pair. The controller was still in a sealed box from the factory and the valve was in the original box (where was never a seal on the valve).
When I received them I was even more impressed, both the valve and controller are really heavy duty. It paired up immediately with my C7. Installation was really quite easy, a few fittings from my local plumbing supply (NOT HD) and all went smooth.
As you can see from the photo I'm old school when it comes to plumbing connections. I used Loctite 565 for the threaded parts (this stuff is great, never any leaking from the get go).
Additional thought: I know the only way for this valve to shut off (except for manual) is via Z-Wave. There is no capability (that I'm aware of) to connect a leak sensor directly to the WaterCop unit.
There probably is if you break open the case. But if there is, it'll still be just a hard wire. The WaterCop classic, like I have, is wireless, just not z-wave. You could maybe wire a switch though for manual control. Here is a thread:
Thanks for the info.
This unit is circa 2019 and not one of the AT&T units. I read through the warrantee and it does not state from whom I must purchase it to have the warrantee valid. So, I'll not open the unit until I'm sure the unit is past its infant mortality point (if ever).
I purchased the controller and valve from the same seller (whizcatt) but with two transactions. The valve was $15.
I was able to disconnect a union at my water meter allowing me to solder the sweat to MIP fittings without having the shut off valve installed (so there was no heat risk).
Also I purchased my fittings at a plumbing store (they were not made in china). Later I looked at the HD fittings and it was obvious the difference in quality.
I would suggest a daily/weekly toggle of the valve. I have three of these things. Originally I hooked it up and setup rules to close if any leak sensor showed wet.
Fast forward 6 months to replace some other plumbing fitting and turned off from the device page. Nothing happened. I realized the device fell off after a week. I'm much more conscious of my mesh. This was like 3 years ago. But either way, these non plus devices need a bit more care. Plus, turning the ball valve will keep things loose.
Anyway, I have a rule to toggle for a minute each morning at 330am.
Made me look closer at what can be done. It appears Hubitat can talk to the valve without actually activating the mechanism.
It looks like I'll have to stumble through writing another driver.
I'm of the opinion exercising the valve too often is detrimental. The ball valves on my furnace only get exercised maybe once a year, perhaps less. They seem to be free enough after sitting that period of time. I'm thinking once a month is plenty IF I can verify the connection more often.
Anyone install one of these outdoors, maybe under a sprinkler valve box or inside a weatherproof electrical box? The outdoor version of these things is brutally expensive.
Down here in FL, at least on the coast, building a waterproof basement would cost a fortune so everything is built on concrete slabs. My water value is outside and the pipe runs under (or probably within) the slab and just comes up through the walls where it's needed.
I have 2 of them outside in florida. One does a daily flush of my shallow well spindown filter. It's just covered by a tote laying over the well pump.
I have one of them sitting above ground where my water line goes into my house. That one is just covered by soffit. Been running for a few years with no issue. If you are concerned, you could always crack it in two and add some silicone between the cases.
I should have said "boiler" we're mostly fuel oil up here in New England.
Still the valves I'm referring to are water feed or hot / cold water lines. We have a terrible lime content in our water. Oddly enough it doesn't seem to build up in the plumbing but the sink / shower fixtures build up an obscene amount of lime.... well maybe not obscene but it does look bad.
Well blowing rain and noreasters certainly get it wet. It certainly doesnt get submerged. I have directly sprayed it with a hose and seems to survive fine. The humidity hasnt been an issue at all. If i didnt have anything over it, i would at least wrap plastic around it and ziptie it around the brass valve to keep most surface water off of the shell though.
Adding some photos of the inside that I don't remember why I took.