Amazon shipped the AT&T part number ball valve.
Will that be compatible with the DynaQuip controller?
I was planning to do the plumbing this weekend even though the controller isn't arriving until next week.
I can't be sure but it looks the same as the one I received. Here's a better picture of my valve up close.
How are the z-wave WaterCops working out for you? Reliable?
My WaterCop legacy sensor communication seems to be getting weak, and I'm thinking about ditching it.
I have a Z-wave motor operator. Just hoping I could easily replace the classic operator without sweating in a new valve.
I’ve had mine for over two years and it’s still working well. It sits below my hubs in the crawl space so I wouldn’t likely experience a signal issue like you are describing. I do have to cut the power on every hub reboot but I have that automated via smart switch and rule. Otherwise still reliable.
Some folks have replaced the Zwave module so something you could explore. They still done sell a Zwave Plus option unfortunately.
Thanks. What I have predates the z-wave models. I cobbed it up so that now I have a mix of the "classic" radio transmitters and Utilitech z-wave sensors. I'm thinking of scrapping the classic transmitters and go all z-wave.
I'm just wondering if the z-wave models are working well and if it would be an easy changeover. Sounds like yours is working well.
My watercop is working great. I test the signal every day and test the valve every week. Yesterday I had to replace an undersink stop valve, so instead of going downstairs and turning the main off I simply clicked "OFF" on the hub device page.
Before installation I opened the controller for a quick inspection. The mechanism is robust but simple.
- The valve only rotates in one direction.
- There are two cam operated switches on the valve shaft (inside the controller). I think they are in series. One opens when the valve is open, the other opens when the valve is closed.
If you short across the valves for about 1 second the cam will rotate, the internal switch will close and the motor will rotate until the next cam opens the switch. At this point the valve will be at the next position.
I did not closely inspect the wiring but the above is correct, you can convert the controller to Z-Wave using a Zooz relay unit. Simply put the Zooz relay across the switches and to advance from open to close or close to open simply pulse the relay for about a second.
I suggest before traveling too fast down the above described road one opens the controller and inspects the wiring (posting photos if needed) to verify the operation before tearing things apart.
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After checking out the other classic WaterCop (radio) sensors, I've come to the conclusion they work a lot less reliably than the Utilitech z-wave sensors I have. I'm going to rip out the classic sensors and stick with the z-wave sensors, maybe buy a couple more, and keep the classic WaterCop valve operator which is working well with the Zen16 relay and the Watercop on/off button I have by the door. I like that button to turn off the water when we live. It has red and green lights on it for on and off.
I'll keep the z-wave watercop actuator as a spare. They're remarkably expensive now.
Even the Utilitech sensors are more money-maybe they're getting rare. I'd like to keep consistent with the look.
