My experience with HE

You should be able to pair a Zigbee device in place (I forget if it's Patrick or Mike, or maybe both, but they often say: if a device won't pair in place, it probably won't work in place, either). Zigbee is capable of pairing through the mesh. If you do pair it near the hub, Zigbee is also self-healing and should find a good route after it gets moved, too, but there's no need. Z-Wave Plus is similar, but if you have "classic" repeaters or a "classic" device, keep in mind that this is a feature new in Plus (and it's usually necessary to be near the hub for secure devices like locks and garage door openers regardless, though some have had luck without).

SmartThings used to recommended pairing everything near the hub. They still might; I haven't read their docs lately. I assume that's because it was a fairly safe option. But in most cases there's no need (I wouldn't be too worried about Zigbee in either case myself).

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perfect, thanks @bertabcd1234

I WISH I HAD THOUGHT TO DO THIS INSTEAD OF WASTING 4HRS GETTING THEM ALL BACK ONLINE ON THE 2.4 one...
smh - I have got the rogue bulb onto the orbi mesh, i'll keep an eye on the logs and see if that fixes the issue. Thanks for the idea to use my brain.

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As long as you keep your old router live I don't think it's helping. With all those 2.4G transmitters you are creating all kinds of interference problems. What channels are the AP's on? What channel is Hubitat Zigbee on? Placing one bulb over to a different router might slightly change, because of the power of the transmitter of that router, but as long as there is interference on the bands you will eventually run into problems.

I only have the orbi and one satellite. The tp link 2.4 is just a pi sized wifi router doing 2.4 - with passthrough from the modem. No idea what channels any of them are on, HE Zigbee is set to 20. 10 of my 12 yeelights were having telenet issues - ranging distances from the 2.4 router. Bulbs have been bulletproof until something I think I cause with my power down / powerup.

I moved the one bulb remaining with telenet issues from the 2.4 to my orbi - just waiting and watching to see if that fixes it. If it does, I will slowly migrate them over.

I added the problematic yeelight to my orbi - connected no issue but still having the telenet issue (after 1 day, but yesterday the issue wasnt there). So it might be the bulb, i'll keep an eye on it.

Does anyone know the URL for a manual hub shutdown ?
I have not loaded the UPS battery monitor driver back in but yesterday we had a power out and I have no way of manually shutting the HE down until I decide to try the UPS driver again. I will need a VB anyway so that I can RM the hub off down the road.

is this the right way to do it ?

I know RM4 is whizz-bang, but is it silly that I can create this RM4 rule in simple lighting and it works better ? (ie took me 45 seconds to make & I can easily put in restrictions)

Why is it silly? RM is a blank slate to do weird and wonderful things that are likely specific your your home and no point in building a app for just one person to use.
Simple lighting is just that it's easier to use and understand but just does simple things that most people want. Same with motion lighting it's for all things with motion sensors. They are also much smaller apps so will be inherently faster at doing these simple things. KISS don't overcomplicate things when they just don't need to be.

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Simple Lighting at the top said "light or switch" and got me thinking to use it for a simple wifi switch for some bedroom lamps for my kids.
It is a simple app, and does exactly what im after. I saw I will forget where it is thought as its under "lighting".

System has been relatively stable, so i've locked all the IP address of the yeelights and added the UPS driver back in the system.

#fingerscrossed I dont wake up to a broken system tomorrow.

Yeah it's name may lead you down the garden path it's should be simple rules or simple something :thinking:

So I am having an issue where my motion sensors are "dropping off" now i thought that would be a noticeable thing... but they just stop responding.
My thought is that I have my repeaters too far out and not tight enough between the devices and the hub. So I am bringing them all in - but how do i "heal" the mesh ?
IE get the devices to connect to the repeaters closer instead of trying to get back to the hub.

What other things can affect the mesh ?
I noticed when I added an extra MS that kinda tipped the limit. One would stop working, then work again and a different one stopped working, and vice versa.

I mean for a 200sqm house, with only around 12 zigbee devices and 4 repeaters i didnt think I was overloading it BUT some of the repeaters are on the outskirts / in a area where no other device would see it to connect line of sight.

I removed my 3asmarthome zigbee switches to my second hub (and a different mesh), and that improved my experience greatly, after the battery devices found the hub again. I suspect the 3asmarthome devices are not great repeaters, but I'll wait for Mike M to confirm.

I'm now thinking of completely trashing the old hub, and doing a clean install. The new hub has considerably faster loading time on pages, and the old hub is having DB issues from a restored backup.

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yeah see all I have is 4 ST multi sensors, 3 xiaomi temp sensors, 4 Iris MS and a aeotec multi 6 sensor. Oh and the 4 ebay zigbee repeaters.
Its not a huge setup.

Do you not have 3asmarthome switches?

Nope, none.
Your talking about wall switches yeah, not the ebay zigbee repeaters ?

Yes, correct. You must be the only Hubitating aussie without them.

I guess I like the idea that I can take my setup with me. If I go and put in wall switches that kinda more permanent an option. Plus with bulbs I can put them in myself vs calling a sparkie.

Did you know the best way to do a zigbee heal / see what devices are polling to what zigbee repeater ?

Not sure about how to do a heal, but this may help:

HUBip/hub/zigbee/getChildAndRouteInfo