Motion Lighting App Assistance

💡 Lighting
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1

The rule I'm attempting to setup using the built in Motion Lighting App uses a Dome motion detector to trigger a GE/Jasco Zwave Dimmer.
What I'm trying to achieve is this.

  • While in Evening and Night modes, when motion is detected then set the dimmer to 30%.
  • The lights should turn off after 3 minutes of inactivity.
  • If the dimmer is adjusted (either through the app or via the wall switch) then the lights are to remain on at the revised dimmer setting. They would need to be manually turned off (either through the app or via the wall switch) in this instance.

I got as far as getting the lights to trigger on and turn off after the set time. The problems I still lencounter are:

  1. If I change the dimmer setting the lights still turn off.
  2. If the dimmer setting is changed and motion is detected (prior to the lights turning off) the lights revert to 30%.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated as I'm so frustrated with it I've disabled that instance of the app altogether.

3

In the Options for Turn-on, Disable, and Enable Lights-On" menu in Motion Lighting:

Try "Enable Override with Dimmer Level Change" setting. From there, depending upon your dimmer, you might also have to enable "Use Physical Change for Override".

I think that will fix most of what you want to happen.

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4

@neonturbo, I've attempted both of those options but it still doesn't give me the result that I'm looking for. I discovered that the dimmer device state isn't updating properly this may the the root of my problem. One problem at a time I guess.

5

Oh for sure if the dimmer isn't updating, nothing will work right.

What model switch is this?
What device type (driver) are you using?

6

I'm using a GE 14294 Smart Dimmer. With respect to the driver, I'm using the GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Smart Dimmer built in driver.

I get the updating issue with miltiple devices (the GE Dimmers, GE Switches, Somfy Blinds (Generic Z-Wave Shade)).

7

That should be the right driver.

If you are having issues with multiple Zwave devices, you probably have a mesh issue. Have you run a Zwave repair since adding all these devices?

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8

These are typical signs of a weak z-wave mesh.

After you added all your devices, did you run a z-wave repair? And, you didn't add these in secure z-wave mode, right?

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9

Just becuase this will probably be aaiyar's next post, and I thought I would save him the trouble.

https://docs.hubitat.com/index.php?title=How_to_Build_a_Solid_Z-Wave_Mesh

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10

I disagree with it being on a weak mesh. There are switches in the same room with the hub, with unobstructed line of sight between the switch and the hub (~8ft). There shouldn't be a need to communicate through the mesh in this case. Additionally, the clusters defined in the Z wave Radio Devices are well defined with multiple in and out devices for each device. See the image below for a snipet of cluster definitions.

image
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11

The supported zwave command clusters have nothing to do with mesh strength.

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12

That is not what the clusters mean. Unless you test network speed/reliability using something like PC controller (or Z-wave toolbox) you won't know whether you mesh is strong or weak.

Edit: to expand, here's an example of z-wave toolbox indicating the packet path taken when my hubitat (device 1) controls my closet light (device 122):

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13

That said the 14294 definitely work with Hubitat using that driver.

If you aren't getting reliable reporting back to the hub....

  1. Try hitting configure in the device detail page
    If that doesn't help
  2. Try zwave repair
    If that doesn't work
  3. You likely have a mesh issue
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14

Very timely video just posted by support.

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15

@neonturbo, I used the instructions in that video when I paired all the devices to the Hubitat. I will attempt repairing the network to see if there are any changes.

@aaiyar, I'm not certain if spending an additional $150 (plus shipping) to get a Z wave tool is worth it to determine the mesh strength.

As the system worked fine when connected to the Wink hub I don't think that I have a mesh strength issue. All of the devices are the same, in the same location. The only variable that has been changed is the hub.

16

I agree. However PC Controller (from Silabs) is free and works with any z-wave dongle.

17

@aaiyar, can you please send me a link to the PC Controller software? I figured that I would purchase a Z Wave USB stick and do some Z wave evaluation around the house.

On the same topic, will the Zooz S2 USB STICK suffice?

18

Sure. There's no direct link. You have to sign up for a free account at Silicon Labs. Then download the Z-wave embedded SDK. That will include PC Controller version 5.39, or whatever the current version is.

Unfortunately, I simply don't know. I have a Silicon Lab USB stick (UZB3), which costs about $30 at Digikey.

The newer UZB-7 stick is even cheaper, but I have no experience with it.

I'm tagging @april.brandt and @erktrek - they both have more experience than I do with PC Controller and Zniffer.

Edit - BTW, everything is Windows only.

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19

So I think the answer is maybe not - you need a UZB3 so you can reprogram the firmware. The SL app you would use in this case is "Z-Wave Zniffer 4 Secured". It may come with the SDK - I can't remember it does!.

Here is a great place to start...

The Zooz stick (I think - I own a Z-Stick) you can use with the PC Controller software and join it to HE to detect ghost devices, maybe update firmware (but @bcopeland's driver is much less of a hassle)

Note: I also own the UZB-7 but have not tried to update the firmware for zniffing. Did not have much luck running it with the PC Controller sw.

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