I have a Leviton Z-wave switch that also had the oversized tabs (heat sink I think) That I installed 4 years ago. The tabs were scored and very easy to remove. I only removed from one side to accommodate a dual box. Only took a few seconds after I realized they had to be removed.
I agreed with @matthewschultz92 this is the route to go. I have a few of these inovelli switch for a few weeks and they are very good and I would highly recommend.
Hey @hike20, great question and great feedback. I sincerely appreciate it!
Yes, we did decrease the depth a bit, but you're right, GE did a fantastic job with their new line by removing the tabs and also the depth decrease.
Here's a Pic of three different switches
On the left is our Gen 1 switches (similar body as GE Gen1, and exact same body as Zooz Gen 1 and possibly their Gen 2 - I don't have any Honeywell for reference). The middle is our new switch and to the right is GE's new version.
We are looking at ways to improve and somehow GE pulled off this masterpiece after we started tooling lol.
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GE greatly improved the fit, both depth and width of their new switches and made the wiring a bit easier by auto detecting line/load, but they didn't do much with the capabilities so for the extra 1/8"depth and tabs to break off I will definitely stick with Inovelli Red Series switches. I just added another today and have been working on making the LED notification settings much easier as I add additional switches by grouping the notification child switches.
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It's possible that the GE toggle versions are even shallower. Here's my comparison. It had me wondering if I have the new version of the Black switch.
I do have another question though. I was hoping to use this with a ceiling fan. The instructions state that this switch should not be used for fans. Since this is not a dimmer switch I wonder why that is? By comparison, the GE does not have such a warning and their advertising mentions it's use for fans and even pumps. My fan uses one light switch to turn the fan on/off and another for the light. Speed is only controlled by the pull-chain. So I'd like to confirm if I can use the Black switch for it or not?
And for the record, I too like the extra features the Inovelli switches bring, especially at a lower price.
Dang that is quite a bit shallower. Very impressive! I'm wondering how they're doing it tbh - our initial PRD (Project Request Doc) to the manufacturer had a request in to make it as shallow as possible (I think I even requested a 1" depth) and as they were designing the internals, I was told the relay was what took up the majority of the room.
I'm going to pick up one of those toggles to see how they did it as now you have me curious!
Full disclosure here, I will be changing that in the next iteration of the manual. I was leery to market this feature bc our Gen1 switches had an issue with Inductive loads (you'll see the same warning on Zooz and Eva Logik's manuals) so I didn't want to even take the chance with Gen 2.
I did ask that they handle fans and motors, but I never tested this feature extensively so rather than market it, we chose to just say not to so it.
However, UL has determined this can handle up to a 400W Inductive load and I've had many people reach out to let me know it works great on their exhaust fans, so we will remove the warning for sure.
Thanks for bringing that up!
Edit to clarify (and answer your question directly) - yes, either the Red or Black Series On/Off switch can be used on an Inductive load of up to 400W.
It's a competitive market for sure. You are pretty close to having it all in one switch though, especially since yours can handle fans. The auto detect load is nice, but being able to use "dumb" switches for 3-way setups is way better for most of my installs. That seems the biggest weakness of the GE IMHO. Probably 1/3 of my lights are 3-way.
Got a shipping notification for the dimmers!
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Aye, me too! Took me by surprise actually! lol
S
Any idea when the versions that don't require a neutral might be in stock?
Must be soon. I received my per-ordered dimmer Yesterday.
Anyone who is using the new switches know if they fixed the unresponsive issue the first gen ones had (where after a few days they stopped responding to physical key presses even to turn off physical lights until you cycled power)?
I have had the dimmer for a few weeks and the On/Off longer than that. I haven't had any issues (knock on wood) yet. In fact I have been very happy with them so far.
Mine too (2 dimmers) have operated flawlessly since I installed them.
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I have had mine for a few weeks and not had a issue. I also have been very happy and they have work as stated. They really did a good job on the switches and dimmers I have both and really like them.
I believe that is a feature of those switches.
Please check the documentation, but I think tat it's 9 quick presses up that "undos" that feature. If that doesn't work, contact their support.
Yes, it's a feature. It disables the internal relay I believe the reset is 9 or 15 taps to reset it. But if that doesn't work reach out to them they helped me fixed mine very quickly.
Hey! Question for everyone with the Inovelli switches—how fast is the button response time? Instant? 1/2-second delay? More than that? I’m looking to replace some switches now that these are out and have had some time after release.
There is a slight delay on the Red Series with most kinds of taps on the paddle. Since it supports up to 5 taps, it has to wait a bit after you stop tapping to see if you are going to do more. For a single tap, I'd guess this is around half a second, but I haven't timed it. It's enough to notice but not enough that I can't get used to it.
I've read that this currently happens on the Black Series (non-scene) models, too, due to its firmware being based on that of the Red Series. If I recall, they plan to address that in a future firmware update since without multi-tap abilities, there's no need for it to wait. On the Red Series, I'm not sure what they could do besides add an option to disable scenes (something I've seen requested, but I don't know if they have such plans).
Thanks! The HomeSeers I own have a 2-3s delay, and I’m not going to install them because of that. Also, some of my switches don’t have neutral so there is that facet 
In my house, I really love the look of my old Leviton VRI-10 switches, but their age and functionality with smart bulbs says it’s time to swap them out. I’d been using SmartThings buttons soldered on to the leads of them to act as switches. Very hacked together, but it worked pretty darn well—and it looked nice!
If you have any, would you say the delay on this device is comparable to that of a SmartThings v5 button?
