Wifi presence. Via Iphone presence, although we dont use Iphones, all android here. It works flawlessly.
I have a rule that when my Hubitat presence sensor (HE app) hits the home area, it triggers the iphone presence sensor to run every 10 seconds. So within 10 seconds of me hitting the home wifi (which is turned on by tasker when I approach home), I'm recorded as home. Doors open, lights come on, etc.
I'm not recorded as away until both wifi and Hubitat are away. I am intruiged by the Hubitat youtube thing last night, which I have not watched yet, saying presence was bad for unlocking doors. I'll get to it tonight......
I am using the HE app on my Android mobile and my wife is using the WiFi presence app on her Android mobile and they both seem to work alright. I also carry a SmartThings Presence Sensor V4 in my cycling pouch for when I ride my bike as I find that useful as I come and go without having to stop get off grab my pouch etc. The only thing bad about the SmartThings Presence Sensor V4 is they seem to chew battery life.. I noticed it dropped quickly to 15% although it's still running and it's been like this for weeks haha so will be interesting to see when it dies.
I have wifi/ L360/ HE with combined presence but even with them all combined coming in and out of the fence can sometimes bounce in and out like this...
i'll check when I get home, but currently it should just be if L360 enters the geofence set as mode-based on time of day if L360 leaves set mode away wifi and HE presence are Not part of the presence sensor currently. I was getting worse results with L360+HE iOS (multiple bounces in a minute).
Another option is to order some of the Sonoff S26 smart plugs and flash them with Tasmota. There are HE community drivers for Tasmota so that would work as well. I haven't specifically flashed that plug before but I have flashed the Sonoff Mini and Sonoff Basic R3's and they work great.
Also there is alot of other Tuya plugs that you can apparently use Tuya convert on as well which is an OTA flashing method although I have never done that before as I just flash using the headers.
@Ajrlaird is coming in Sunday to help me setup the Pilot in the Museum.
Once we start widescale rollout and deployment I'll start ordering from AliExpress, current rollout timeframe requires off the shelf as we have an AGM Saturday week and I need to be in pilot by then as that will cleat the path to a bigger budget and expansion.
Understood. I'd just stick with Tp-link for the time being then as you can get them any time you want from many local places. @stevebott123 is right the tp-link devices are pretty solid.
HI all, First time poster here from Tasmania. I have read all of this post (there is lots of great info enough that it would be great to have a separate section in the forum for Australia) and had a question (no doubt more to come) regarding dimming. As far as I can tell my best bet is to use a Fibaro or Aeotec in wall dimmer with a bell press on the switchplate. I can fit these as I'm a Sparky.
I have read issue with the dimming only able to go down to 40% and or flickering, there was talk of using the bypass, did this fix the problem? I can run a Neutral to the switch if this will fix the issue also (it would work out cheaper too)
Which have you guys had the most success with Fibaro or Aeotec?
I want to retain "normal" looking switches if possible and be able to dim the lighting automatically for bathroom visits in the night etc.
Noticed some new switches in Bunnings this afternoon. I had a little bit of a look through the clear packaging on the back and I wondered if these could be flashed with Tasmota.. maybe.
Both are good..ive been using Aeotec since 2012 and never had a problem. Ive one Fibaro dimmer which at the time worked better with the LED downlights i had installed ( Brightgreen ) than the Series 1 AeonLabs (aeotec's original name)..but have recently used the Aeotech Nano dimmers and they have been awesome too. Im pretty sure mine have a neutral, but when i bench tested they worked fine without.
As for dimming levels..its more to do with the capability of the lights driver than the dimmer in my experience. Dimming an incandescent bulb is smooth as and dims to "barely on"...
