In a place where I needed two nano devices (dual switches or dimmers), and I couldn't go into the wall, I put another mounting block below with a blank plate. Or if it was a dumb switch, use the space behind.
The other option which I've thought about but haven't needed to do (yet) is to run just the wires to the switch mech (ie your 30BPL) down to the plate, then leave the nano dimmer up high in the ceiling or down low under the floor. Or in some less visible (ie not at eye height) boxes nearby. It's just two wires to the mechs, so not a big deal.
And I agree, multi-dimmers would be useful. But surface mount always has limitations.
This is an entirely valid approach, your sparky will usually put the nano into a junction box to keep insulation from causing overheating and other issues.
Me and my sparky ran in to this issue as well. What we ended up doing was putting in another flush box above or next to the existing (no hole through the wall though). We took out the sides of the flush boxes that were facing each other so in effect we got a flush box that was twice the size compared to a normal one but with only one single sized hole through the wall
Thanks SimonS and mattias. Those are both great solutions. Running wires from the switch isn't possible in a single brick internal walls or slab roof, but I will keep it in mind for the double brick external walls. The back-to-back boxes is probably what I'll go for if my plan below doesn't work out.
I've bought every mounting block Clipsal has for the C2000 series and have settled on swapping the switch plate for a 2000 series mounting block with wrapping cover. In the foreground is the 2000 series mounting block with enclosed cover, the background is the C2000 mounting block + face plate. The C2000 block is just too tall and didn't pass WAF. The 2000 mounting block was deemed acceptable.
The 2000 series mounting block should give me the extra 20mm I need to fit 2 Nano Dimmers. Remains to be seen if 2 30PBL mechs will fit as well.
I've taken advantage of SmartHome's Black Friday sale (buy 2 get 1 free) and picked up 23 dimmers, switches and dual switches. I'm deep down the rabbit hole now.
Yep, I tried once to reset the connection and I don't think it worked, then tried again and it eventually reset. I can track down the steps if you need them.
Mine may have been a different issue then, it got into a state where it was saying ftp already in use or something similar. It stayed that way for ages until I got around to resetting the connection. I'll find the instructions I followed, still are useful to know anyway.
Also curious to know. I bought a bunch of these on sale due to being HomeKit compatible and was wondering if there was a cygnett platform integration or driver at all for hubitat.
I’m aware that you can create a work around using homebridge and virtual devices but was hoping for a cleaner option.
I posted this in another thread and thought I should also share it here. I have an extensive Home Automation setup with over 100 devices, most are zigbee with a few converted Brilliant Smart Globes. NO smart switches as I wanted to maintain normal switch behaviour and Alexa does all the work we need. O just wanted to control the christmas lights for a little cost as possible.
While Hubitat will pair with most Zigbee devices, it does not recognise all the different brands available.
I purchased quit a number of the Telstra branded Sercomm Power Plugs / outlets to control my Christmas lights. As they are not for regular use I went cheap and $15 per outlet. When I first imported them to Hubitat they were identified as just device and no driver assigned. Once I set up to use the generic zigbee outlet driver, I could control them but could get NO feedback that the switch had changed state unless they were refreshed via the device interface. To cut a long story short, including trying to write my own driver I gave the generic drivers one last go and got the to work perfectly. The fix was right in from of my face all the time. The smart outlet is really nothing but a switch so I tried the Generic Zigbee Switch driver and bingo full functionality.
I thought I should post a new update as I have successfully now got the Telstra/Sercomm SZ-ESW01-AU to recognise as a generic zigbee outlet with state update and power reporting.
Process:
Place the Telstra/Sercomm SZ-ESW01-AU in pairing mode
Discover the device as per other Zigbee devices
Name the device and save
In the device page select the device and name the device Sercomm SZ-ESW01-AU
Assign the "Generic Zigbee Outlet" driver and save the device.
6 In the Commands panel check you can control the outlet (You will have to initially press the "Refresh" button to update the state change.)
Once you have confirmed you have confirmed control press the "Configure" button.
Confirm that the state change updates automatically and you are done.
Thanks Craig. That’s a very useful site and thanks for sharing. I went ahead and got some of these as I missed out on the Samsung ones when JB had their Black Friday sale.
Anyone in Australia using a konnected (the interface kit not conversion)? Currently on sale and I see the pro is as well although AFAICT the only difference is POE/wifi vs wifi only.
Thanks @craig.allen.20. Just to confirm, they do report current power usage? I am looking for replacements of my WiFi plugs - I am having all sorts of problems with my WiFi, so I could get Zigbee replacements for a critical automation, that would be great.
