Yes, you are correct in that you will be able to increase the amount of devices connected to HE by adding another repeater. Just bear in mind what I touched on in my previous post, especially regarding the interference.
I haven’t seen anything about minimum distances between the HE hub and other Zigbee radios or between the IKEA repeaters and other Zigbee radios, but I’ve seen other brands recommending a minimum of 1 metre (well, 3 feet to be exact) between their Zigbee device and other Zigbee radios. It’s something to keep in mind at least.
I used to have a Zigbee in-wall switch in a flush box and a Zigbee battery powered dimmer switch right on top of it. They didn’t like being that close to each other (granted, this is extremely close). The battery was drained in just a week.
Having said all that, you will most likely be fine as long as you don’t have your repeater right on top of the HE hub.
Just also be careful with the control of the IKEA outlet. You don’t want to be powering off the HE hub while it’s still running by turning off the power to the outlet. The HE database is quite prone to corruption if the hub is not turned off gracefully from the hub.
Hey mate, how did you go with it? I bought a couple but they kept tripping so I was told to install a 'bypass dimmer' which didn't quite do the trick either.
I was told to install a bypass on my light switches as well because they thought the load was too low. Rather than buying bypass devices, I increased the load by putting 3x 60W incandescent bulbs on the circuit. The lights still flickered after that so I asked them what the minimum load is to not have to use a bypass (since 180W is a fairly substansive load). They never replied to that. I have since returned all my Makegood light switches and dimmers. It would appear they use the “buy a bypass” as a Hail Mary for any issues these light switches have.
Yes, that's the one I ordered. I don't know about the neutral. I am travelling at the moment and don't pick it up until Monday. I can let you know then, or you could give them a buzz and see what they say about it??
My Samsung Galaxy Tab A 10.1 2019 tablet complains when I first plug it in, something about it not charging at full capacity. I tested it and it delivers 900mA, which is fine with full brightness if you don't have the screen always on.
Thanks for letting me know - Vidabox prices are just too expensive though and I don't know how they can justify charging people almost the cost of the actual tablet (even more expensive in some occasions) for a plastic box.
I'm not using normal velcro - I'm using 2 pairs of Command Picture Hanging Strips, large size. It holds very firmly, no movement at all. I've cut out some of the spines/hooks to allow the ribbon cable to pass between the strips. It's so strong that I have no fear of it falling; I'm more worried about cracking the screen or bending the chassis as it takes a lot of force to detach/reattach to the wall.
There's an idea - according to 3M these can hold about 3kg for 2 pairs. Just curious as to why you placed the strips around the centre of the tablet. To minimise stress on the tablet, wouldn't it be better to mount 4 pairs of small/medium strips at the top and bottom edges though?
Using 802.3af 48V real/non-passive POE to USB adapters:
Not a fan of passive POE due to potential for short-circuit/fire.
And an adapter between the two:
I positioned the strips 17mm in from each side, just avoiding the radio area. I thought it would be more discrete, rather than have them right at the edges and light bleeding through the middle. I have a terrible habit of over-thinking things of no consequence.
Yep, called up and confirmed that they do require neutral wire and I don't have it available at my place - I can get the sparky to install some on switches which are on double brick walls but I'll get stuck with the internal walls which are single brick and have no conduits either hence I've been chasing switches which don't require neutral.
