Not really. The z-wave issues became apparent pretty quickly, The first issue I had was with Ring security keypads that were working fine on the C7 and became unreliable on the C8. I had a bunch of other issues too - z-wave devices suddenly going offline at various times through the day, devices that were working one day stopped working the next, lots and lots of devices showing up with only on neighbor for weeks, and so on. I did a TON of troubleshooting and was never really able to pin down the issues other than I ditched a couple of sensors that seemed to be rerouing a lot. I'm still having z-wave issues today. Just yesterday I un-paired and re-paired an aeotec trisensor, tested it, worked fine yesterday, showed up as a ghost this morning.
The zigbee issues started pretty early on too - the first I noticed was the hue motion sensors but then it started to spread to INNR and Sengled outlets, ST water leak sensors, a couple of ST motion sensors, and so on. Some of them I have re-paired and they have stayed with me. Others are an issue every few days. Even across the same brand of sensor - I have one Sengled contact sensor that keeps dropping off but others that are fine.
I've only done one migration (from a small test C-7 setup to the C-8 when I first got it); not sure what happens when the C-8 to C-8 is migrated. Are you seeing unique PAN ID's / Extended PAN ID's on all your hubs?
Migration causes duplication of both short and extended PAN ID's; this scenario can't be detected by the built-in PAN ID conflict detection (it only checks the short PAN ID since there's more likelihood of a conflict). The assumption when the spec was developed was that 64 bit extended PAN ID's would always be unique when being randomly regenerated. Migration copies them and kills that assumption. If two hubs with conflicting extended PAN ID's are on simultaneously, weird things will happen.
They're supposed to be randomized automatically whenever the Zigbee radio gets reset (as you're supposed to do as part of post-migration when putting the 'source' hub back in ), still I have now an issue with my migrated C-7 where it will NOT randomize its short PAN ID or Extended PAN ID when its Zigbee radio gets reset... it's very strange. Resetting its Zigbee radio seemingly sets all digits of both short and extended PAN ID's to zeroes when the radio comes up.. but not really; when the hub gets rebooted, both short PAN ID and extended return to the same setting they were on before the radio got reset (and that's the same short/extended PAN ID's that the C-8 is using). Have done it multiple times and cannot get the C-7 to change... another odd bug.
EDIT: was able to resolve by (against current recommendation) switching C-7 to new Zigbee stack via endpoint, then doing Zigbee radio reset (C-7 on .112 firmware during this scenario). "Stuck" PAN ID's were then correctly set to newly randomized ones.
Not sure what their plan is at the moment, but I think sale of the C-8 should be halted until this is sorted. Regardless of what anyone says, I think a LOT of people will be affected by this. Many of the people in these forums who are dealing with these issues are long time supporters and enthusiasts of Hubitat and know their way around. How many new users will purchase a C-8 and just get frustrated, thinking they are simply purchasing the latest and greatest Hubitat but can't seem to get it to function in a satisfactory manner? I have no doubt that the team understands this all too well and are working as hard as possible to figure it all out. I can imagine what is going on behind the scenes - not fun.
My understanding is that the zigbee id won’t change on the C-7 which is why there is the stipulation that if you want to use zigbee on it after migration, you need to reset the radio to clear the entries and change it to a different channel.
Yes, exactly; and (until recently) resetting my C-7's Zigbee radio did randomize its PAN ID's. Now resetting its radio shows 0's which revert (after a hub reboot) to the exact same short and extended PAN ID it had before the reset (and it's the same one it 'donated' the C-8 in migration). Changing channel or not results in same behavior... it's seemingly stuck.
EDIT: was able to resolve by (against current recommendation) switching C-7 to new Zigbee stack via endpoint, then doing Zigbee radio reset (C-7 on .112 firmware during this scenario). "Stuck" PAN ID's were then correctly set to newly randomized ones.
Well folks I have had an interesting morning. Yesterday I had about 6 devices I could not re-pair to my C8 no matter what I did, though they would pair to another C8.
So today partially in desperation and partially to replace the only component I had not yet replaced - the antennas - I swapped my original C8 for an off-the-shelf model and did a C8-C8 migration.
Z-Wave came back pretty well. Zigbee did not. Most devices were non responsive after a couple hours. So I said screw it (actually what I said was much longer, much louder, and not nearly as nice) and I went through the house and re-paired every single zigbee device I could find, starting with line powered devices and then proceeding to battery powered devices, more or less from the hub out. I was able to pair all of my devices including the ones that would NOT pair yesterday.
Will have to see if they stick around.
And would you look at that - my problematic ring keypads stayed connected for almost an hour before they went offline again. They HATE the C8.
I have found on most zigbee devices there's no difference - on some like the hue outdoor motion sensors there definitely is. A bunch of mine just needed the battery pulled and they came right back. A bunch more required a re-pairing. And some required both.
Right. On things like the Ikea blinds or the ST motion or water leak sensors the way you do a factory reset is the way you enter pairing mode. No difference. On the Hue sensors there's actually a different button. Pairing mode is hold the big button for 10-15 seconds, but inside the case there's also a factory reset button. On the Sengled contact sensors you press for 1 sec for pairing, 4-8 secs for reset.
When I was re-pairing my various sensors I didn't have to do a factory reset on the Hues, I just held the pairing button for 15 seconds. The rest of them pretty it depended. The Sengleds seemed to like a full factory reset. The ST motion sensors generally were ok with just pulling the battery and nothing else. The ST water leak sensors wanted to be reset/repaired.
My Hue Outdoor motion sensors also have a button that can only be accessed by opening the battery compartment and using something thin (like a straightened paperclip) to press it. It's below the button that can be pressed from the outside (back) of the case. I wasn't sure what it did (I'm still not).
I looked for other buttons inside after you take off the back but don't remember seeing any. Where is the reset button if it isn't the one under the stick connected to the "exterior" button?
So to clarify this is the Hue outdoor sensor... after you undo the four screws and pull the back off (the watertight gasket makes it interesting) you'll see the pairing button that the little stick thingie you press pokes into... and above that there's a recess that contains the reset button. I think. The Hue docs are HORRIBLE.
