As I understand it you just need to update them to work correctly for anything it's not a HE issue just devices were rushed out with a few bugs.
What driver did it join with in ST I believe standard dimmer? It will join as a device in HE and your need to tell it that it's a general ZigBee dimmer because @mike.maxwell wont have the fingerprint yet. Ideally if you could keep the logs open when it joins and copy the information it gives you, you can post it on here for mike and he can add it to the driver for it to automatically select the correct driver for the next person.
actually this is the way most of us sparks wire now especially when you have down lights. Even more so now with smart devices as they need a neutral, its much easier to test and check the wiring connections as well.
they work with "certain" LEDs from memory its trailing edge LEDs that will work not leading edge. there is a 10W minimum load required (because there is no neutral) if you have master and slave the minimum load would be 20W.
I'm not sure. It called it a Aurora Smart Rotary Dimmer and worked straight off the bat. Does that mean my ones came through with more recent firmware do you think?
This seems like such a nuisance because I want to put a relay behind the light switches in the hallway but the only way we can see to do it is to put another box beneath it with a blanking plate as there isn't enough space to in the box. The other option will be to take the metal back box off the wall and chisel into the brick (I'm considering it).
No worries, you had a lot more to add than I did . Interesting to know the minimum load doubles with a second dimmer. I really struggle with lighting wiring and I have to get my old man to help. He's retired but used to work in the lighting trade.
its not that they didn't work it was something about flickering or switching issues i believe
from you post it looks like you were or original firmware and as the firmware is only just been released i would say no.
this is a issue with some sparks and builders they should really be using 35 minimum boxes these days but there is no standard for requirement for it. So smaller is cheaper especially when chasing is required, plaster board walls are easy to change and the smallest boxes are 35 mm minimum.
yeah it has to get a return path from somewhere to run so it gets the neutral "through" the light fitting that's why some lamps have a small glow when conventional or smart dimmers are used. More devices needing power means a bigger minimum load. That's why i prefer ones with a neutral if i can find them.
I asked over on the ST forum as there's an Aurora guy hanging out there occasionally.
It's
end point 3, cluster ID 0x0006. And then just send an on/off command
I'm not sure if it's possible for the built in generic drivers to set configuration for things like this, I know @mike.maxwell has mooted a ZigBee config tool like the Z-Wave one he wrote.
Should be easy enough to sort with a custom driver of course, even if only to temporary switch to it to do the config, then switch back to the generic one.
Hoping to receive my Aurora in the next few days so will see how it goes.
The current generic zigbee dimmer driver has the destination endpoint hard coded to 1 for the bindings, its easy enoigh to change this to whatever the device advertises when discovered, in which case that driver should work. Ill get this change into 2.1.5.
Sorry, just to be clear the generic dimmer driver already works for these (based on @Langas reports above), my comment was related to being able to turn off the blue LED that shows locally on the device. This is configuration really, but interestingly they seem to have just implemented it as a switch on/off command on a different endpoint!
I'm just setting up my HE and I definitely don't know what I'm doing at the moment but I've tried copying the drivers from the very top of this tread and it doesn't like them.
Row 64 is the first issue as there are *'s at the start and end of the line. If I remove them it then rejects it for another reason.
Yeah I haven't ported it as it's just the generic dimmer, was just using it as a example that I should work. The * where to highlight the devices fingerprint.
Thanks, although I'm trying that and I can't even get the light to turn on. With the RM I'm having a lot more success. I think maybe I need to sleep on it.
Have a sleep on it and if you're struggling I'll do some screenshots of both options. Do you use modes (For your curtain hours) ? I have X mode do this level and y mode do this level.
I managed to get it working better in the end - thank you. Although I think I need to look into the drivers for the Aqara motion sensors as one out of the three is consistently acknowledging presence.
The attached turns off the blue LED, swap each device to use this driver temporarily, hit off to turn the blue LED off, hit on to turn the blue LED on. Then swap back to the Generic ZigBee Dimmer driver.
Simples.
/**
*
*
Aurora Aone Blue LED Configuration
*/
metadata {
definition (name: "Aurora Aone Blue LED Configuration", namespace: "Aurora Aone Blue LED Configuration", author: "Aurora Aone Blue LED Configuration") {
capability "Switch"
}
}
. Interesting to know the minimum load doubles with a second dimmer. I really struggle with lighting wiring and I have to get my old man to help. He's retired but used to work in the lighting trade.
