I'll buy 1 to test if I can find somewhere that sells them
That appears to be the tricky part mate!
(BTW disaster on Saturday 
)
Yeah, seems to be trade only, i'll email them.
It was! 1 day we'll score all these shots on target 
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Beginning to think they need to put their hand in their pockets for us to start doing that
I think they expected more from Helder @ £15m! We'll see what happens this tranfer window.
I've emailed Aurora about where to buy, also asked about Hubitat support, worth a shot!
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There's a few of us using the AOne:
That said, if you've ruled out Fibaro modules due to the cost, then I'm not sure the AOne will be for you! I got mine from https://www.peclights.com/product/aurora-aone-au-a1zb2wdmp-1gang-smart-rotary-dimmermoduleplate
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It was more cost + hassle of install. With the modules i'd need to deepen around 10 25mm backboxes, which whilst i'm capable of doing it, I really can't be bothered 
If they work well (eg better than LightwaveRF) and are easy to use i'll give them a go.
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Ive got two, on in ST and one in HE now. Using LED's the need a relativly heigh load, think ive a 15W led and a fibro bypass (to stop it glowing).
I would sugest putting in a normal bulb while paring as it took me a few goes, untill i put halogen bulbs in, then swap them back
multi chip led works best, one has 3 GU10's if i use single chip(cob) leds, they glow if i use multi led bulbs they are ok
othe has a single BC bulb hence the bypass
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I believe from memory of my training on them the minimum is 20w.
I got some stuff from my local CEF wholesalers in Swindon they were flogging stuff cheap as they were testing them to see how they sold. You can go on their website and see which ones sell Arora then pop in.
Damn, 11W dimmables in most rooms. So it's either higher wattage bulbs or a bypass then!
Can you get to the wiring above the lights (If using spots for instance) as a samotech SM309 will fit through the hole, it does require a neutral, but you will have one at the first light and where the cable to the light switch is connected to the lighting circuit. Also these work best with a push button rather than a toggle switch, but if you use the switch rarely then you can just leave it off but connected, then turn on off to turn on and on off to turn off. on and hold to adjust dim then off when set.
They dim LED's really well right down to off with no flicker.
Scrap what I said it's 10W if PF is less than 0.9 it's 20W if you have a slave.
When they brought them out I was surprised. I hate rotary dimmers 
much prefer push to make.
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I know what you mean, but there are limited options with no neutral and 25mm back boxes. I recently installed 4 lightwaverf dimmers thinking they'd be the solution, they're terrible! Hard to use and don't work with HE. I was planning to do Shelly dimmer modules with retractive switches but with 2 kids under 5, can't find the time. The Aurora's should be easy to fit and more importantly, intuitive, so I don't need to train visitors how to turn the light on!
I'm assuming 2 core cable at the switch? You could just install a dimmer at the main light then use the switch line down to the switch as a switch line for the device. There is a ZigBee dimmer that is supported that could go in the ceiling box then job done. Grab a nice retractive switch and put it on the end. Also Aurora have some ZigBee input switches planned apparently 
Yeah no neutral. I'll see how the Aurora goes, if it doesn't suit then i'll just have to go with Shelly modules.
I'm not that keen on the idea of standard retractive switches, I don't think they're very intuitive, eg press once for on, hold for dim down, hold again for dim up. I've had a 3 postition retrractive switch ready to try with a Shelly Dimmer module for a while but they keep delaying the release. The 3 position restractive switch would mean the Shelly module would need to go behind the switch as it needs 2 wires from switch to module.
But you can make them work with HE.
I have 7 dimmers and 4 sockets working ok.
Pain to set up but once you've got it all set up they work ok.
I have the Gen 2 version (smart series), not Gen 1. Either way the switch itself doesn't work well, you need to hold the button down for several seconds before any change.
100% agree, in the controls industry we only tell people to install centre off for that reason, unfortunately alot of the dimmers out there (especially if not all of ZigBee ones) only have the single input. The Fibaro ones do but the 2nd input can be used for something else in my case the ZigBee lamp in the room so that was a better option.
I really rate the click stuff as a electrician, that's what I have in my house. Although I stick to their "mini grid" range.
? Are they WiFi?
The Fibaro and the Shelly both have 2 inputs so you can use them with a 3 position retractive switch, i've checked with Shelly and they said it would work.
Yeah, and cost less than £20, support for Huibitat is coming directly from them apparently. And they handle 10W without needing a bypass module.
Can't remember why I chose the gridpro over the minigrid, might have been that they only sold the plates in packs of 20. I only got the 1 to try out though, why do you prefer the minigrid?
To be honest the gridpro is a new range so not looked at it much. But the mini grid range has been around for years and there is masses of options /mid ranges within them my switches are the mini grid DECO range because i don't like flat plate.
