Aladdin Connect

I have just recently started with HE, and so far everything has worked beautifully. However, when we built our house, our three garage doors have genie controls using Aladdin Connect for "smart" access. I haven't been able to find even one mention of this in the forums. I did see that some are working on it with ST, but I would really like so e input on what my options are now. I'm open to anything that will work, but if anyone can help with making the Aladdin work that would be great, if not, what is the best, least expensive way to integrate my garage door openers to HE?

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Building a house now and having the same question, hope you get some answers

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Are you saying that you haven't been able to get Aladdin Connect to work for your doors? Have you followed the instructions for connecting to your Wi-Fi? A few more details and I might be able to help with the Aladdin Connect setup. I had some problems initially but eventually got it to work. Once it works, it is sooo slooow to respond to commands because the app is cloud-based. I'm looking for a local solution that won't have to do the hop to the cloud to complete commands.

Sorry, I just saw this. I have got Aladdin Connect to work as an app. I just wanted to find a way to connect it in through hubitat and use the dashboard for manual operation and rukes from HE instead of the ones used in the Genie app. (As you said, it is too slow.) Pretty sure I'll have to come up with another way to control the doors rather than Aladdin Connect.

@bryan2, @sam.bowden, @draftsman101: I created Hubitat drivers based on a reference shared here: Is it possible to use RM4 to control/report on my Genie Aladdin Garage (based on Postman success)?

As you noticed, it still has a cloud dependency. But this should make it more convenient to integrate and use with Hubitat.

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Now that I have local control over my myQ garage door, my neighbor wants his Aladdin opener to have local control. Has anyone tried to get local control, e.g., using something akin to what can be done for myQ (Local Control Options for MyQ Garage Door Openers - #112 by jsarcone). Cloud wouldn't be that big of a deal, if there's no other way, but I am not too crazy about the amount of lag talked about here.

I don't have Aladdin (did have a genie at one point) if the hard wire connection is a short to open/Close door then you just need the relay. If it is like in MyQ, where the communication from the button to the opener is something else, then you need a button to be the trigger point. So, I believe in either way; yes, there is potential here.

Well i am not sure what I need to do. Here’s the clicker board:

I can’t figure out which connections to short together. The door opens when I put a wire between the contacts on the back of the clicker, but I think those just might be pressure sensitive. Anyone have any idea? I don’t know if it’s a good idea to just randomly short various connection points together…

Where are the buttons? The button you press on the outside of the enclosure either pushes a mechanical-electrical button inside OR just shorts two of the pads. Can you figure out what happens at the board-level when you push the button on the outside of the remote?

Sorry, should have made that more clear. The buttons of the remote correspond to the circles, as shown here

When I put one end of a wire on one of the circles, without putting the other end of the wire on the other circle, the door opens. Which makes me think it’s mechanical rather than electrical. But I don’t know…

Are there 3 buttons on the outer enclosure, or 6? I'd guess that one half of each circle is internally connected to a ground plane on the board, and each row may be redundant such that you can short either side of a top/bottom circle. Do you have a multimeter that you could use to check for low impedance paths between the button contact points, the battery terminals, and different points on the board? That would help you visualize the electrical layout and functionality.

3 buttons. The 3 oval buttons correspond to the 3 red ovals in the picture.

Yup, I can do that....

Just to cover all bases here, have you tried shorting the connection terminals on the GDO itself where the wall switch goes in? If that short works, then you can connect the relay there without having to involve a (dumb) remote.

ETA - My super bare-bones / very old LiftMaster died last month, so I had a Genie 2128 installed (it's a pretty basic model in the Genie line)... It says it has Alladin Connect built-in, but I haven't even looked into it -- I'm just not interested. As soon as it was installed, first thing I checked was shorting the wall switch - that worked, so I just reconnected my Zen 17 just like I had it for the dumb ol' LiftMaster -- works like a champ.


I guess one downside to that is that it will take two zen17 rather than just one right? For two garage doors that is.

The zen17 has two relays, correct? You should be able to use it for two doors if closing the contact between points on the remote works. If they're redundant in the same row, you only need to connect one side.

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For two garage doors, using the remote would only require one zen17. Shorting at the GDO itself would require two zen17, at least assuming I’m not going to run wire halfway across the garage. Right?

Oh, got it. How far apart are the openers? I'd put the switcher either in the middle or close to one and then just run the wires to the openers from there. You can make it look "good enough" for a garage pretty easily if that is your concern.

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That's a good point - the possibility of it all being in a finished garage occurred to me after my last post, so I can understand the aesthetical apprehension about stringing wires, straddling openers etc - the dumb remote tie-in is a nice option for that.

I generally pursue a hard-wired / mains-powered solution when possible, but like it or not, that just ain't always the best way to go.

Just wanted to give a heads up, i have a genie garage door as well, and for the wall mounted GDO, i found the following resistance values work with the hard wired button controller:
203.3 ohms (light button pressed)
0.3 ohms open/close (shorting the wires together)
1.5 M Ohm ( no buttons pressed, effectively an open state)
82.4 Ohm locked (GDO lock switch set to lock)

So if you want to use all features per garage door, you would need 3 relay contacts:

  1. one with a 203 ohm resisitor in series to trigger the light
  2. One with no resistor to open/close
  3. One with a 83 Ohm resistor in series.
    Relays 1 & 2 would need to be set to reset back to open state after 1 second to simulate a button press
    Relay 3 would need to be set as a toggle to simulate a switch being toggled

I have this setup on my garage door with a zooz zen 16

Here’s what the wiring at the GDO looks like. Which terminals do I short?

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