Is that a recent mandate? My house is about 10 years old and door won't open when power is cut. That's why there is a pull cord to release garage door from track in event of an emergency and power is out.
Must be a local code or HOA requirement or something like that? No such rule in my neck of the woods - I just had a new GDO installed a few weeks ago.
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I just Googled and it is a California law that started July 2019.
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Yep - guess where I live, lol.
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So when are you moving to Texas then? 
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Giving a detailed setup on how to set up a Fibaro Smart implant with Hubitat. I'm not going to get into soldering, wire ties and those things of that nature. However, you should have enough detail to accomplish the task.
Below is my setup. Quick and little messy but it works!
List of main parts:
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ALITOVE DC 12V 1A Power Supply 1000mA 12W AC/DC Adapter, 100~240V AC to DC 12 Volt 1 Amp 0.6A Converter with 5.5 x 2.5mm 2.1mm Plug for LED Strip Light CCTV Security Camera DVR NVR Surveillance System NOTE: Screw block for adapter (female)
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FIBARO Smart Implant Z-Wave Plus Plugin Universal DIY Tool, FGBS-222, doesn't Work with HomeKit
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Security+ 2.0 Wired Dry Contact Adapter - www.garadget.com: They will do the light if you ask (not part of these directions)
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Garage Door Opener with Security+ 2.0 – Sears, Liftmaster and Chamberlain (required: you should have this already)
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Hub C7 (required: you should have this already)
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Tilt sensor/Door Sensor
Note: The Fibaro Smart Implant has very fine wires be careful of this and DO NOT Power on until ready
I pre-downloaded Smart Implant device drivers. I used HPM (Hubitat Package Manager Application) to do this
First you need to install the button on your garage opener. If you purchase this pre-wired, then red (+) wire will connect into the Garage Door opener on the motor side. If you have a button, you will connect it where that one is by the motor (connector location). White (-) wire will connect into the Garage Door opener on the motor side. If you have a button, you will connect it where that one is by the motor (connector location). If you push the button, that you have just connected then the door should open and close. It may take a few tries due to Security+ 2.0 needs to sync with the button the first time
Don’t worry about the other wires (speaker wires) from the button yet. Now if you touch the two ends together it will open the door (that is what the Smart Implant will do).
Don’t connect the Smart Implant connector into the Smart Implant, yet. We will do that later.
Note: I extended my leads from Smart Implant with something a little bigger and longer (I soldered; you do you).
Look at Smart Implant Image. below
Connect Red (Implant wire (P)) into the (+) side of the adapter. Connect Blue (ONLY 1 Wire (GND) into the (-) side of the adapter. Tape the tips of all the other wire EXCEPT for the Black (DON’T cut anything). Black is the antenna.
Smart Implant Image
In C7 hub I did the QR Code with the Mobile Hubitat software and set it up like:
Connect the Fibaro connector into the Smart Implant and be careful of direction. See above (antenna on top and blue & red at the bottom)
Now, connect your Female connector to male connector for the AC adapter. You should see an LED light come on. Wait for inclusion. (Read directions)
Once, you have this included into your hub go to Devices> Fibaro Smart Implant. Select the user DLH that you had installed above: Save then you should see Install or Reinstall (yes)> Save again. Once this is completed, back at the Device page it should look like this.
Verify that Fibaro Smart Implant- Output 1 can turn on and off (I didn’t install on the opener until I was done). [If you have the light lead on your button, follow similar direction to get that to work too for Output2]
Now go back to parent device (Fibaro Smart Implant) go to setting options “Input/Output 1 - Local Device Protection” set that to 2 and Save. Then go to “Output 1 - auto off” >5 (this worked for me but maybe not for you; higher is a longer time for on before it is turned off) Save and then Configure.
Note: Sometimes it takes a couple of tries for that setting to take effect or seconds.
You can repeat Output 1 verification again, but it will not stay on this time it will turn on and then back to off. (Auto Off is now configured)
Once this is done you are going to connect the speaker wires from the button to the OUT Put 1 on the Smart Implant (make sure it is secure and the wire insulation is not in the way from making contact with screw block connection. This doesn’t have polarity [(+) or (-)]. Make sure you connect it correctly in Output 1 correctly.
Now verify, that this all works. If you repeat Output 1 verification again now the door should open and close.
I’m not going to go through the Garage Door apps but as long as you have a tilt sensor or door contact then you are ready to move on to the Garage Door Apps.
I hope you all find this helpful. Thank you everyone for your help over the years.
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I have read thru this thread and some others and am a little confused. On my GDO, I can short between the 2 connections on the GDO indicated by the red arrows to trigger the garage door to open or close:
So, is there any reason I can't just run wire from the Zen17 Relay 1 C and Relay 1 NO to those 2 connections and not use any kind of remote in the setup? Please excuse my ignorance of GDO wiring.
I can do the same to the screws on my wall remote but, unfortunately, there is not an electrical socket w/in 20 feet.
If you can open the door with a simple short to those two terminals, the setup you described will work fine. That's how it worked with my old opener. I had to wire to the wall button only after replacing it with a Security+2.0 opener.
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Correct. The remote is only if you have a Security+ 2.0 opener (yellow learn button not purple).
Yep, if the short trick works, you're in good shape - sounds like your setup is pretty similar to mine then... You can put the Zen unit anywhere most convenient for reception and/or power.
Since my garage is detached, I had to place my Z17 above my service door to ensure good reception, so I had to run quite a bit of extra wire for everything... I used 18-2 t-stat for all of that (even extending the Z17 power cord) since I had a bunch xtra already and I like that it's a wee bit sturdier than plain bell wire.
My GDO has those same kind of levery-ish connections, and when I tested trying to mush multiple wires into one of those slots, I wasn't left with much confidence, so I wanted to have just one wire going to those respective GDO slots.
I used two 3-port Wago lever nuts... In 1st Wago's 1st port, I connected the red wire from the (existing) wall switch. In 2nd port, connected (new) red wire from Z17 R1NO. 3rd port, connected (new) red pigtail wire to proper slot on GDO. Repeat with white wires in 2nd Wago (R1C connection at Z17).
Works like a champ!
ETA - my Wago connections are all done right above my GDO, though you could do them anywhere you want. I did them by the GDO so that I didn't have to "cut" the existing wires from the wall switch at any point. If my smart-setup here all goes to hell at some point, all I need to do is pop those existing wall switch wires out of the Wagos, disconnect the Wago pigtails and then pop the wall switch wires back in their original GDO slots.
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HUGE fan of the Wago connectors! Sounds like I can safely proceed with the weekend project. Thanks for the confirmations of my suspicions. @hydro311 @aaiyar
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Since I have 2 dumb reed sensors (on ea. for full-open / full-closed door position) attached to my Z17, my setup was rather unorthodox -- my hodgepodge dashboard setup was pretty darn ugly lol (but worked fine overall).
I don't know why it took me so long to try it, but I just recently installed Kevin's GDO app as detailed here (starting Step 3) -- man, it totally works like a champ - I love it!!
Kevin's app enables you to set a 2-sec (IIRC) auto-off for the relay so that it mimics the wall switch's momentary button behavior. Or you can use the Basic Z-wave Tool to tweak that parameter -- I went that route a while ago before I tried Kevin's app. Either way to set auto-off for the relay will work perfectly fine.
Good luck with your install!!
I just wired up my GDO remote to turn on the light and door and what is really great is that it works. Take a look.
I found this 12V adapter
which I think will work (I don't have a usb C cable). I checked the specs on the Zen16 and it says 12V-24V but doesn't list amp draw. This adapter says 1.5A, I will test it before I use it to make sure the voltage is correct. I think I can cut the end off of the power supply cable and wire it in to the Zen16. I don't have my Zen16 yet but it is on the way. Cudos to the forum member that told us that the Zen16 was on sale at the Smartest House. I saved 10 bucks. I can tell MYQ to hit the road.
Do you think it will work?
Yup you will be fine. I don’t have my zen16 installed yet but I have been playing with it powered from an old blackberry (yes dating myself) 5v/500ma USB plug.
Since the zen16 only uses power for the internal - the dry contacts don’t source any power of course - it doesn’t take much power.
I once powered it from my bench power supply and from memory I think it takes less than 80ma from 12v.
From the data sheet
Thanks for the info. I kinda figured it would work ok. Don't worry about dating yourself, my first cell phone was a Nokia. My first PC was an IBM PC Junior. I think it was used by some dinosaurs before I got it.
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Lol. Actually my first cell phone was a Motorola bag phone supplied by my first ‘real’ job.
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Hi all, your solutions all look great. Just a small tidbit from an old, lazy person of the group, to save some soldering for anyone else attempting this setup. All 3 buttons within the Chamberlain/Liftmaster remote are referenced to battery neg. Therefore you only need a max of 4 wires if you want to connect all 3 buttons... Neg, But1, But2, and But3. Less wires if you need less buttons. i.e. My install uses 3 wires and 2 buttons. You would then jumper the Neg wire to all the 'C' or 'Com' terminals on the relays. Then the individual button wires to the individual 'NO' terminals.
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I love soldering and use any excuse to do it!
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Reposting here - from Zooz GDO thread.
Here's my setup. HE C5, multisensor, ZEN17, Garadget Security+ 2.0 dry contact adapter, plus this GDO app.
I'm running into a couple of issues. First, regardless of your intent, closing the contact on the ZEN17 performs a button "push" on the adapter and it doesn't know your actual intent (open/close/stop) - it just pushes it. Where this becomes a problem is with multiple "pushes". I have a routine that is supposed to open the garage door when anyone arrives, but if the routine is delayed (presence via Life360 because HE presence is 80% right) and then the driver doesn't know if HE is going to open the door and pushes the button in the car, whoever pushes first starts opening, and then the second one stops the opening. Zooz GDO gets frustrated and says it failed to open.
Second thing is a weirdness with the ZEN17 it seems the driver wants to close/open the contact with 2 second delay, but the ZEN17 has a built-in 1 second delay and it gets confused and ends up remaining on vs off - which then 100% fails to work from HE (can't turn some that's on on or turning it on doesn't work because it is already on).
