Yup - for 700 and 800 series z-wave, I think the encryption/decryption is done on the z-wave SoC, so the impact on the hub's CPU is next to non-existent.
I am being a little pedantic about this because I frequently see recommendations against using S0 and S2 security. S0 - I understand, there's increased traffic that keeps the radio busy. S2 - I think has a minimal impact, and shouldn't be lumped with S0.
1000% agree and that was kind of what i was getting at.
The stigma with S2 I think comes from the early C7 hub which had many issues due to the zwave firmware (from Silicon Labs). Devices worked much better with no security. I noticed improvements when I switched a lot of my devices off S2. But by far the best improvement was the latest zwave firmware. Now I want to eventually reset my zwave and start over, adding everything back with S2.
Also, S2 does have an impact for larger packets such as firmware updates. The message needs to broken into more chunks (almost double the amount) due to the S2 overhead on the packet. Most messages are small enough where it can easily fit into a single packet with the S2 encryption added.
I did and a hard reboot. It slowly came to be responsive. I havent had time due to work to keep testing what was now working and how much delay. The repair feature didnt work on nonS2 devices if reading the popup for repair results correctly.
It should work fine on all mains powered devices, regardless of security.
DO NOT do multiple full repairs though, it may cause more harm than good. Once is OK, and then let things settle. If you do multiple repairs it is going to cause a flurry of messages and make things worse.
If devices fail the full repair you can make note of the node IDs and then try individual repairs on them if you want. The mesh will also self-heal within 24-48 hrs. If you have a device that always fails on an individual repair that is a sign of issues with that device getting a route.
Did you do the z-wave firmware update?
yes, it seemed to take. As you can see it has disappeared from my options at top of zwave page.
It is just hit and miss on working when I push buttons digitally, or has a delay in response (focused on those Zwave dimmers and the scenes they are a part of). I thought I would monitor [as recommended] for next few days tracking which areas are most problematic. If there are any guides on troubleshooting weak RSSI signals, questionable routes, I will read those.
Do a shutdown again, this time pull the power plug for 2 mins not 15 seconds and boot back up. Wait 5 mins and see how much populates.
This and dont do a full repair, just let it work itself out.
Using some of the devices may help as well but do not furiously push buttons if its not working quick.
I would like to see the full zwave page AND Topology map after 12-24 hours of the hub being restarted. This allows for the stats to build up and get a better picture.
One last thing, what types of materials is the home constructed from? Wood/Drywall, or something else? Also what type of boxes are the switches in? Metal or Plastic? I am asking this because your neighbor counts seem low for the number of devices you have, unless they are extremely spread out in a very large home.
thank you both. I will do a longer power cycle (although I think I did between 30-60 secs last time).
As far as home materials for interior traffic, it is wood frame and sheetrock with plastic/bakelite boxes. I have near direct path on three switches in a triplex box (took my hub out of the cabinet I was using and put on nearby shelf to see if that helped a while back when adding more zigbee devices at extents of home; although I am not moving the hub all around all the time, since I learned from forum the risk of moving things). Most Zwave stuff is in the public corridors (open areas).
FWIW, here are the details again. 08,15, 22, and 25 are not online devices at this time. I ordered a stick to remove ghost 25 since I don't know what it was and can't remove it from zwave page. Still having delayed or non-responsive items this morning [eg. foyer, zen51 overhead, nook overhead).
I'd still recommend getting that outlet re-paired with something besides S0 (device 24, C2 outlet).
thanks.
It didn't repair own its own (using the repair button). Should I remove and reinstall?
C1 and C2 are ZooZ Zen15 outlets that supply and monitor two dehumidifiers.
Responding to an earlier post, if you went all S2, wouldn't you have to keep track of all your S2 codes? What a hassle.
Yes, I should have used better terms. You can only set the encryption method during pairing (what I was trying to say with re-pairing vs using the repair feature).
If it's used in automations, you can leverage the Swap Apps Devices option from the main settings menu.
ten4. I got you now.
Good to know about swap apps option. I didn't know about that. I will work on converting the security levels on the outlets as time permits.
I'd say just that one at S0 is the main concern.
RE: Power metering devices (where they give you any sort of power / energy stats). Unless you use the info for something specific I would recommend configuring the devices to send the least amount of reports. For example on the ZEN15 if you only need the POWER, turn other stats off or set to longer intervals. Make sure the thresholds are set so you do not get a flurry of reports when the attached devices powers up/down. Turn on debug logging to see all the reports from the devices in the logs to verify how many reports are coming in. Try this driver for the ZEN15 (if you have 1.06 firmware) [DRIVER] Zooz Smart Plugs Advanced (ZEN04 / ZEN05 / ZEN14 / ZEN15)
Your C2 outlet seems to be the most problematic, it has a lot of hops and the most route changes. Also as mentioned it is paired with S0 which causes 3x the zwave traffic overhead.
08, 15, and 22 you said are offline? If possible I would bring them back online, your mesh could use more devices to be stronger. Are they plugs you could plug in somewhere? If so, I would try and position them so they are between your more problematic devices and the hub. Otherwise just power them up if possible. If you are not planning on using them anymore I would exclude / remove them to prevent any routing issues.
WIP update- Still working on things.
I did unpair/re-pair the Zooz plug [that was high in route changes and security 'Z0'.] Did this several times using the instructions for security pairing for device, but a no-go. It only loads Z0 even with a power cycle at the plug. But the dimmers seem to be better with the plug out of the mesh it was in, for the moment; I just haven't placed it physically back where it is supposed to be used. I will look at adding devices soon (from other hub, etc) since it seems that there is a population factor to the zwave mesh quality.
I am just a bit reticent to apply the time in moving things around in hopes of things solidifying on HE zwave, but I will try to send updates on whether I got the ship righted after working on it over the coming days.
You will need a z-wave stick to pair that to hubitat without security.
Download the Hubitat app
