Code may have variations per local jurisdiction, although NEC serves as a model. The requirement for accessible cutoff mechanisms was added in 2014 with a change in 2017 to add trash compactors and extend the allowable length of power cord. Many homeowners find out about such things when they go to replace something and more extensive works needs to be done for a new installation. Happened to me with a water heater recently too.
But back to the issue at hand. My dishwasher installation, which is fully compliant with the manufacturer's recommendations and local code, and the ZEN15 turning off. With a different ZEN15 in place, the problem did not occur. Incidentally, the actual readings indicate max power of 11 amps, well with the 15 amp max load specification of the ZEN15, and the manufacturer's recommended installation of either 15A or 20A circuit.
@HAL9000 are you sure it’s tripping due to overload rather than the firmware bug I mentioned a few messages up in this thread? I was having the exact same problem; a device firmware upgrade solved it immediately. Hoping this solves it for you.
I don't think that's the explanation. My failing ZEN15 is an older generation, not the newer ones with 800 LR. Wasn't the bug you were describing only on the newer ones?
What version of firmware fixed your issue for you? The one that I have that fails is 1.6 but also the one that works OK is 1.6. The one that was failing I believe was the first of many ZEN15s I bought, so it has a few years on it.
You may be right as my ZEN15 is fairly new. Looking at device details, it shows HW version 2 and the firmware was 2.00 and I had to upgrade it to 2.10 to prevent these ghost “Off” events from happening. Ever since I did, problem solved.
A different ZEN15 (also Model ZEN15 VER. 2.0) with firmware 1.6 exhibits the same behavior. Only this time it reported power consumption of 3044 W/25 amps (!!!) before it cut off. I don't doubt it saw a very, very short inrush current of that, but the other ZEN15s I have don't have any issues with inrush current on dehumidifiers, radon fans, sump pump, etc.
I notice that the 3044W reading wasn't what caused the switch to turn off as it reported other non-zero reading 10 minutes later. And I should say I am just assuming that the switch turned off because of overload protection. The LED was reddish .. was it reddish orange? Maybe. But it wasn't flashing. So it seems to me it was just off. But I was fixated on the overload theory since the switch could not be commanded back on remote despite many attempts.
@agnes.zooz do you have any suggestions? The dishwasher is a Bosch 800 series rated at 12A max and is on a 15A circuit. This dishwasher has never tripped a 15A breaker (which is not slo-blo) so we know it is operating within its spec to run on a 15A circuit.
I repro'ed this problem with some more verbose logging (and a different driver). I also disabled both digital and physical off commands to rule out everything but the case where the ZEN15 turns itself off. The logs seem to confirm that a spurious (?) high reading is why the plug cut off and the LED was red.
I have disabled overload protection and that appears to fix the problem. Before anyone starts saying that might be dangerous, keep in mind the actual max load is 12A, and the circuit is protected by a brand new 15A breaker. Having the ZEN15 in place with overload off can't possibly be any different than removing the ZEN15 and plugging the dishwasher directly into the outlet.
Is firmware 1.06 the latest for the non-LR ZEN15 with angled plug? There exists firmware 2.x that says it is for hardware rev 2, and my non-LR ZEN15 with angled plug SAYS hardware rev 2. But it is rev 2 of non-LR, not rev 2 of LR.
It looks like this may be a higher than usual inrush current displayed and tripping overload protection. If a ZEN15 that you're using on some of the other devices you mentioned (like sump pump, fans, etc) behave the same way here, then it's likely that the appliance is actually producing this spike. If the device is connected to an appliance that will often go over its rated limit, it may damage it over time so I would not recommend turning off the overload protection even if that means you'd need to find an alternative power plug for this particular appliance.
The ZEN15 should not trip overload unless 16.5A is sustained for five seconds. It is very unlikely that a dishwasher with two small plastic water pumps no bigger than a fist would be capable of that.
We know that the ZEN15 occasionally reports incredibly high power numbers (like 1200 amps!) and in the thread above @mluck was led to believe there was a bug in V2 of the firmware to produce similar behavior, although I believe he is talking about the 800LR hardware, not the older generation that I have (running 1.06).
The ZEN15 has always been my go-to for heavy duty appliance control. I will discontinue using this one as it is not critical but I will be a bit disappointed. The ZEN15 continues to work well for me in several other more demanding scenarios.
I personally think you should thank your lucky stars you can turn this "feature" off.
Can't on the ZEN04, which occasionally also has a mind of its own, but can't be turned off.
It's a peripheral result of being too smart for its own good.
If it was just a dumb switch, no problemo, right?
But you're using it to monitor power, I assume.
Presumably, since its new and does heat the water, there's a heat pump involved, like my fancy new washer/dryer combo. Perhaps that's a factor...in some way.
Yes, as I mentioned earlier, there is no drying heat element in a Bosch dishwasher, but there is a heating element within the circulation pump. If I was designing a heater that would draw 16.5A for five seconds, I don't think I'd make it out of plastic.
Yeah, I was actually doing some experimenting to give me supplemental information about the dishwasher's progress. I'm already using the HomeConnect API that allows me to start it, know when the rinse aid is nearly out, and when it is running. Unfortunately, it doesn't tell me cycles. This model opens the front door when complete, but as a "safety" measure, waits an hour after the dishes are done before it opens the door. I wanted to watch for a sustained period of near zero power to tell me the dishes were done and I could open the door my own self. But there's another way of achieving this so I won't be too sad I can't use the power monitor solution.
I use a Z15 on my Bosch d/w too, but my rule is admittedly pretty crude.
After instaling the Z15, I watched the logs for a couple cycles, and I came up my rule below... For the Z15 itself, I then set it so 1000W is its only power reporting threshold.
The "done" alert is always within a few minutes of the actual stop (sometimes before, sometimes after), and that's totally good enough for us.
My main goal was to prevent the Z15 from flooding the logs with incidental power reports during a cycle.
I started using this rule with a 700 Z15, and now using a 800 Z15. 800 is not paired LR, but both Z15s used S2.
Well, that's one way to do it. That doesn't remove the problem of overload being tripped of course.
If your Bosch support HomeConnect, you might want to look at it. It doesn't tell you as much as you might want (like what cycle it is on), but does tell you remaining time which is what you are calculating.
Right on -- I hope you get this squared away soon. All of my Z15s have been really solid performers, so I anxious to hear how this gets resolved for you.
Interesting. I just noticed that with the ZEN15 800LR with firmware 2.1, you can no longer turn off overload. You can "adjust" it but the only thing you can do is make it more likely to trip, not less.
I doublechecked and @HAL9000 is correct -- I was using the 800LR -- and yes Zooz told me there was a known issue that I personally experienced where the device would mysteriously switch off. That was resolved with a firmware upgrade.
Just as a data point, I have two of the older Zen15 (think they are a V2 on 1.06 firmware) that work fine on some pretty heavy draw items.
The first is my decidedly old-school power hog, top loader washer machine from the late 90s. I do use the Zen15 for power monitoring.
The other is my Brother color laser printer. That sucker dims the lights in the house when it turns on or when the heater is warming up (inrush current). I don't monitor power with this plug.
Neither trip overload protection, and I am certain it is turned on, see screenshot below.
Yep. Me too. I have one on a sump pump that is heavy enough that I wouldn't want to carry it far. It does fine. I have one on a dehumidifier that is a bit bigger than a window air conditioner. Just fine. I have one on a 65" TV that gets pretty warm if you get close to it. Just fine.
That's why I find it hard to believe that a dishwasher that has no more than a little plastic water pump is giving this thing grief.
I wish I had a nickel for each time I've recommended ZEN15 in this community and on others. It should not be the case that a power plug specifically built to "work when others fail" and is heavy duty for appliances is more prone to trip than a circuit breaker of the same rating.
Yea those new ones are pretty crazy small. I have seen fish tank filters with larger motors. I find it hard to believe it is tripping due to current. I would be curious to put a scope with amp probe on the line and see what it looks like. Easier said than done for most people...
Maybe and I am speculating quite wildly here, maybe the new pump motor is a DC motor, and it somehow is causing a weird interference or harmonics with the Zen15?
