It does seem like it should be an easy adjustment, but I discovered one thing to check carefully - as I was setting this up I went back and looked at my logs and realized that my motion sensors out front are slower at going active when I come home than your presence sensor...presence changed to present almost a minute before my motion sensors went active. I'm using the middle-length antenna.
So make sure your motion sensors are picking up your car early enough to already be active when presense becomes present.
You could put in a delay between the presence and motion reporting to give the motion sensors time to catch up to the presence sensor, but then that makes everything slower...longer wait for garage door to open.
I'm going to play around w/relocating one of my Hue outdoor motion sensors.
EDIT: Moved one of my Hue sensors to the start of my driveway and it's still 24s slower than the sensor becoming present! This sensor is pretty amazing...I may switch back to the shortest antenna to see if that gives me a better balance between motion and presence timing.
For better security you could tap into your cars fuse box with these fuse box tap
and then add this usb adaptor
Make sure you tap into a fuse that is only on when the car is running.
As well as only opening the garage when the car is running.
This will also ensure if you have a remote car starter and it is accidently triggered and the car is in the garage that the garage doors will open and most of the CO2 will go outside.
Less need for additional devices.
I added these to an always on fuse and added a second presence device only to show if the car was home.
The other arrival sensor is on a usb that only are powered when the car is running and this one triggers the garage doors and house lights.
PETG and PLA wouldn't hold up to the heat in the summer. For this you should really go with ABS but I have 5 kids and the wife in the house and I don't want to expose them to the fumes. Maybe once I get something to vent them though.
ABS also takes a lot higher temp to print and that temp is right at the very top of what my printer can manage at least until I upgrade the heater cartridge. I already upgraded the thermistor and plan to upgrade the heater cartridge to 50w. I just haven't gotten around to it.
You also need an enclosed compartment for the printer to keep the part at a certain temp during printing for optimal layer adhesion, so that it does not warp and keep it stuck to the bed.
I'm looking into making a setup for this exact situation because I will have to print ABS over the winter months, this will be a very steep learning curve compared to PLA or PETG. There is ASA that is really great for inside cars and stuff, but that also has its chalenges and you need an all metal hot end extruder because of the higher melting point.
Yea, I already have an enclosure. I've been adding to it over time. It's a bit messy as I'm getting ready for another printer coming in a few weeks. I have a couple of 1U servers I'll be adding below the AC Infinity fan controller and I need to finish up some wiring for the lights.
OK, @NoWon, I looked at your post this AM and what you're suggesting is tap into an upowered (when the car isn't running) fuse connect get myself a couple of USB ports that aren't powered 24/7, so I can use @iharyadi's sensor as intended.
That could be a fun little project. I have always wanted the car's USB power to be off when the car is off. First step...where the heck are the fuses on my car? I've never had to touch them so I have no idea where they are located. Luckily there is this new-fangled Gugle or Joogle search thingy... [Totters off to his workshop.]
EDIT: I actually may go another route...I'm looking at a mod to change my cigarette lighter (which provides power to my USB devices) to be switched off when the car is off. Fixing that will fix all of my USB power issues. I also have an add-on BT receiver powered via the same circuit and I'd like that to be off when the car is off so the phone doesn't accidentally connect when I'm near the parked car. I have a button to turn off the power after it leaves the cigarette ligther, but both I and my wife keep forgetting to turn it off so it mostly is on all the time. Looking at this mod...looks like all I need is some wire and a couple insulated spade crimp connectors.
Fusebox will be in your manual. That said if you have an always on 12v jack (cigarette lighter or power port) you can tap into the back of that. Or if you have power seats you can tap into the hot under that. Use a multimeter to find. Ground at any bolt or find ground with multimeter.
I have the parts I need assembled to change my cigarette lighter over to only on when the car is on, and will be completing things after the required batteries arrive next week.
@iharyadi - I did want to ask about something to make sure I get how things work (always a long-term process for me).
If I have a power outage at the house, what will be the affect on the presence sensor after things in the house power up again? Assuming the sensor is present before power goes out, it will still be present when power is restored. Will the driver report that as a new "presence report" and kick off any automations triggered by a change in presence? Or will it be treated like nothing changed?
Was the sensor "present" or "not present" before the outage?
Originally "present"
Car is within zigbee range when power comes back - it will continue to be "present".
Car is out of zigbee range when power comes back - it will be "not present" after the presence timeout value in the driver (battery timeout or dc timeout - depending on how the sensor was powered at the time power went out).
Originally "not present"
Car is within zigbee range when power comes back - it will be marked as "present", and automations will run, assuming you don't have secondary checks on your automations.
Car is out of zigbee range when power comes back - it will continue to be "not present".
What do I mean by secondary checks?
My sensor is triggered to open my garage door, but only if my phone enters a certain geofence radius within the last 5 minutes.
So for me, the "Not present during outage" and "present when power returns" scenario, my automations will not run.
The driver for this sensor marks it as "not present" when the sensor stops its periodic "pings". So if the sensor is unpowered when the car is off, after a while, it will be marked as "not present', potentially triggering automations based on that state.
Further, when the car is turned back on, the sensor will be marked as "present", potentially triggering automations based on that state.
Adding a LiPo battery to the sensor prevents that.
It is also possible to circumvent the need for a battery by using secondary checks (conditionals) before using sensor status to trigger automations.
exactly secures the garage door, only opens the garage door with the car running. If the car is running or approaching the garage.
Little risk of false triggers.
The old battery powered SmartThings arrival sensor made me paranoid. They would sometimes go departed and then come back (usually due to interference or low battery)
yes that is why I have a second one hardwired to the cars battery but it shows presence and does not control doors or locks.
Some what redundant but more secure.
