I broke the one that I was given. So I bought 3. I ruined the first one by using the wrong dremel bit. Then I got metal cutting dremel bits (harbor freight), and cut the USB opening to be about 2 mm larger than needed. For the other end, I just used a metal drill bit. Iām using this one. I sent the third to @danabw.
I used a metal bit to drill the hole for the antenna.
Then I was going to use a larger bit to drill a starter hole for the USB connecter and finish w/the Dremel. Then I realized that I also lacked the right Dremel bit, but I was not patient enough to wait until I could buy one, so I used the same bit to drill a second hold right next to the first, and using the drill "adjusted" the opening until it was sufficient for the USB connector. Not terribly pretty (really quite ugly), but my handiwork is well out of site in the case's mounted position so only I know. (Well, we all know now, I guess, but I trust you guys.)
It would be if you have a 3D printer. Which I don't (yet).
It is easy to DIY it if you have a drill/metal drill bits and a vice to hold the case. Having a Dremel w/metal cutting attachments would allow you to do a neater job, but if you aren't picky about how it ends up looking (i.e., it's going into your glove box, or attached to the bottom of your dash or something, then you can do the whole process w/a drill and a couple of drill bits.
Sweet - those look great. You'd think I'd have a buddy w/a 3D printer, but we've all let each other down. I do have a power washer, so I've done my part w/the cool-tools-to-share responsibilities, right?
My second sensor arrived today, the same day that my second case arrived, so it's like Christmas here. Thank you very much for the quick shipping, @iharyadi!
Second unit is up and running, this one w/battery (thank you, @aaiyar!!) since my wife's car does not maintain USB power when it's not running. (Which seems odd, since it's a hybrid and you'd think it would have plenty of battery power to keep a little USB port powered up.)
I used my same "I want it now, I don't need it pretty" approach, as this one will be at the bottom of her center console and people won't be juding me. (Except you guys.)
Just to confirm one thing...to reduce risk of false "not present" positives I can increase the presence time-out number for battery operation on the one in my wife's car that is on battery.
Default is 7, which means no change in presence until connection is lost for 7 minutes.
If I set it to 10, then it will take 10 minutes after connection is lost for 10 minutes. Only down-side of a longer time-out is if she went somewhere and came back and re-connected w/in that 10 minute window the garage door isn't going to open up when she arrives, since she was never "gone" from the sensor's driver perspective.
Have I got that right?
I'm thinking that reducing potential false positives (door opening at 2AM for some reason) is much more important to me than the door not opening up if we do a quick out-and-back that is less than 10m.
I believe your car will be started before she will leave with the car. At this point the usb port will be powered. Therefore, the power source will be on dc. The timeout used to determine the presence is not timeout on battery at this point.
If your car is towed away from your home, your understanding is correct since the car will never switch on the usb port.
Thanks! Kind of a DOH moment for me...of course when I start it the car the sensor is no longer on battery. I noticed that when I drove to the grocery store...I checked the driver status and noted (here's that DOH!) that of course power was DC not battery while the car is being driven. Oops...
What I may do is limit the garage door presence automation - unless there is both a change in presence to present and motion in the driveway the door won't open. That should avoid any overnight false positives for my car that always has USB on sitting in the garage or driveway (aside from the raccoons trying to steal my car again).
Don't get me wrong, I'm not expecting issues - since I set the DC power timer to 2m it's been perfect. I'm just anticipating my wife's concerns (some would call it moderate paranoia) in advance so I can show her I've taken any necessary precautions to keep her safe from the boogeyman. In her defense, she lived through the early days of the C7/SilLabs early Z-Wave 700 SDK releases so her confidence in automations was shaken.
Hopefully I'm not having another DOH moment w/my logic above. I'm at least a little confident what I said makes sense.
I never thought about this combination. I think this is really great. It is better be safe than sorry. Thank you for sharing, I will probably do the same for my automation.