ZigBee Arrival Sensor For Car

Victory is mine. (Thanks VERY much to @aaiyar for the case!).

Freshly customized case w/sensor inside.
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Mounted in car on the back of my center console. 330ci convertible so no one ever sits in theback seats, so it's safe from meddling. :slight_smile:
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Now I'm feeling pretty fit and proper. :smiley:

Thanks to @iharyadi for making this possible, and @aaiyar for his help.

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@aaiyar what case is that?

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832867134088.html

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What did you use to cut the holes in it for the usb?

I broke the one that I was given. So I bought 3. I ruined the first one by using the wrong dremel bit. Then I got metal cutting dremel bits (harbor freight), and cut the USB opening to be about 2 mm larger than needed. For the other end, I just used a metal drill bit. I’m using this one. I sent the third to @danabw.

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You can also find this on amazon, albeit for a lot more.

LANTRO JS Frosted Red Aluminum Project Box, 23x44x60mm PCB Junction Box Aluminum Enclosure PCB Instrument Cooling Box Electronic Project Case https://a.co/d/fLd4knh

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I did the same thing that @aaiyar did, sort of. :wink:

I used a metal bit to drill the hole for the antenna.

Then I was going to use a larger bit to drill a starter hole for the USB connecter and finish w/the Dremel. Then I realized that I also lacked the right Dremel bit, but I was not patient enough to wait until I could buy one, so I used the same bit to drill a second hold right next to the first, and using the drill "adjusted" the opening until it was sufficient for the USB connector. Not terribly pretty (really quite ugly), but my handiwork is well out of site in the case's mounted position so only I know. (Well, we all know now, I guess, but I trust you guys.) :wink:

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I'm interested in this myself. I wonder if it may be easier to get a couple of end plates 3D printed.

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It would be if you have a 3D printer. :wink: Which I don't (yet).

It is easy to DIY it if you have a drill/metal drill bits and a vice to hold the case. Having a Dremel w/metal cutting attachments would allow you to do a neater job, but if you aren't picky about how it ends up looking (i.e., it's going into your glove box, or attached to the bottom of your dash or something, then you can do the whole process w/a drill and a couple of drill bits.

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I just checked in end plate that I use with the aluminum case.

Endplate1

Endplate2

Just a note, they are not perfect especially printed with my crappy 3D printer. However, with 5 minutes of sand paper work, it will fit just right.

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Sweet - those look great. You'd think I'd have a buddy w/a 3D printer, but we've all let each other down. I do have a power washer, so I've done my part w/the cool-tools-to-share responsibilities, right? :wink:

My second sensor arrived today, the same day that my second case arrived, so it's like Christmas here. :smiley: Thank you very much for the quick shipping, @iharyadi!

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This community is truly amazing.

We have a local guy who does small 3D jobs as a hobby, I've been keen to try his work.

Oh how easy my life would be if this were true :stuck_out_tongue:

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Maybe we could recruit @lewis.heidrick to print the cases for a nominal fee? (I mean he of course deserves to be paid for all that he does for us)

I had totally forgotten that @iharyadi had already printed a complete case for the sensor.

The commercial option just looks much nicer and the AUD$0.96 postage will be hard to beat.

(Reminder to self...it's going in the glovebox!)

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Second unit is up and running, this one w/battery (thank you, @aaiyar!!) since my wife's car does not maintain USB power when it's not running. (Which seems odd, since it's a hybrid and you'd think it would have plenty of battery power to keep a little USB port powered up.) :man_shrugging:

I used my same "I want it now, I don't need it pretty" approach, as this one will be at the bottom of her center console and people won't be juding me. (Except you guys.) :wink:

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Just to confirm one thing...to reduce risk of false "not present" positives I can increase the presence time-out number for battery operation on the one in my wife's car that is on battery.

Default is 7, which means no change in presence until connection is lost for 7 minutes.

If I set it to 10, then it will take 10 minutes after connection is lost for 10 minutes. Only down-side of a longer time-out is if she went somewhere and came back and re-connected w/in that 10 minute window the garage door isn't going to open up when she arrives, since she was never "gone" from the sensor's driver perspective.

Have I got that right?

I'm thinking that reducing potential false positives (door opening at 2AM for some reason) is much more important to me than the door not opening up if we do a quick out-and-back that is less than 10m.

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I believe your car will be started before she will leave with the car. At this point the usb port will be powered. Therefore, the power source will be on dc. The timeout used to determine the presence is not timeout on battery at this point.

If your car is towed away from your home, your understanding is correct since the car will never switch on the usb port.

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Thanks! Kind of a DOH moment for me...of course when I start it the car the sensor is no longer on battery. I noticed that when I drove to the grocery store...I checked the driver status and noted (here's that DOH!) that of course power was DC not battery while the car is being driven. :smiley: Oops...

What I may do is limit the garage door presence automation - unless there is both a change in presence to present and motion in the driveway the door won't open. That should avoid any overnight false positives for my car that always has USB on sitting in the garage or driveway (aside from the raccoons trying to steal my car again). :wink:

Don't get me wrong, I'm not expecting issues - since I set the DC power timer to 2m it's been perfect. I'm just anticipating my wife's concerns (some would call it moderate paranoia) in advance so I can show her I've taken any necessary precautions to keep her safe from the boogeyman. :smiley: In her defense, she lived through the early days of the C7/SilLabs early Z-Wave 700 SDK releases so her confidence in automations was shaken.

Hopefully I'm not having another DOH moment w/my logic above. I'm at least a little confident what I said makes sense. :wink:

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It would need to be printed in abs because of the high temps in cars and I don't have a vent for my printer. The abs fumes are toxic. :skull_and_crossbones:

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I never thought about this combination. I think this is really great. It is better be safe than sorry. Thank you for sharing, I will probably do the same for my automation.

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