Hi everyone, I had some other obligations come up but this forum has been so helpful, I want to contribute what I have learned for others:
I tried a few alternatives, such as excluding -> factory resetting the ZEN35 -> re-joining to the hub. However, I still ran into the same behavior. I have run into other weird issues with the ZEN35 failing to send commands, and requiring factory reset. I believe the issue is either/both:
- me: my lack of experience with Hubitat and Z-wave, or lack of time to try all possible scenarios, or
- Zooz / Hubitat: limitations in hardware and/or software capabilities.
I don't think the issue is a physical limitation since sync messages are received, and "off" messages are sent from the ZEN35 / ZEN32.
My theory: because the ZEN35 / ZEN32 lacks a dedicated advanced driver for Hubitat, and using alternative drivers that may reveal some settings but possibly create other side effects, then... trying to configure the ZEN35 / ZEN32 for Hubitat for its full potential using direct association is limited.
And, because this isn't my full-time job (though it's related to systems design and data so not entirely foreign to me), I had to make an executive decision to just abandon further work on it for now, and revert back to Switch Bindings (thank you @jtp10181 ).
The home I am configuring is large enough to require at least two Hubitats meshed together. It's a large home, and I've been largely unsuccessful getting SmartStart to work (another abandoned feature). The classic Z-wave mesh has been working well with the following lessons learned:
- Locating the hub physically near the device to join on mesh (as in, within 10 feet) will improve likelihood of joining successfully through the entire multi-step process (acknowledgement of device, bootstrapping, naming, and room assignment). Once joined, the device can work through mesh network of devices and the hub does not need to be located physically near that specific device (i.e. don't expect the initial join to be through the mesh network; it needs to go directly from device to hub).
- If you have a failure of a device to join on the classic mesh method, resolve this before attempting to add more devices. The hub will still work for the home, but you'll get a generic message "Z-wave radio is busy". Reboots (including power cycling) won't help, though may be necessary to reveal a ghost. You need to get rid of that ghost first, or get it added using Discover / Refresh (you can configure that new device and it's fine). There's numerous articles on this topic, so i won't get into it. Use a UZB stick or a second backup Hubitat [what I did] to do a separate exclusion on the device.
- If you are using Ethernet to connect your Hubitat and don't have an Ethernet wire nearby the device to add, I recommend also configuring Wifi so you can physically relocate the Hubitat hub as needed to perform initial joins of hardwired devices like in-wall switches. The Hubitat is capable of maintaining both Ethernet and Wifi connections, though I recommend you configure each MAC id in your router (one for Wifi and one for Ethernet) to a static IP assignment for each so the local IP to access the hub remains consistent as you relocate it. Once all devices are joined on Z-wave, you can relocate the hub to where it works best. A power cycle, then Hub->Settings->Zwave->View Device Graph will show you the connectivity among all. Give the hub a few minutes after power up to establish the map fully.
Okay, so my lessons learned now confessed... here's what I did:
- Exclude all ZEN32 / ZEN35 / ZEN72 devices that are related to a switch binding / direct association.
- Factory reset each physical device.
- Fully power cycle the Hubitat hub (Settings -> Shutdown, unlpug 30+ sec, re-power).
- Re-join each device to hub. Do not configure beyond a name and room assignment.
- Confirm device works as expected with physical interaction, and the hub logs reflect physical actions on the device.
- Use Switch Bindings (or rules) to link devices.
Sadly, there is some delay (depending on how far away and how busy the hub is), and tap-and-hold dimming functions are variable so don't count on this using a remote device and switch bindings.
Overall, Scene Controllers (ZEN35, ZEN32) are intended to provide multiple buttons for advanced function (clicking, not click-and-hold) than direct physical control of the light load. Physical use of the ZEN35 for dimming / ZEN32 for on/off (if the light load is directly connected) will be instantaneous, however remote control of a light load in another switch may be delayed and is dependent on the hub. Thus, if you need failproof light load control, pick the switch device you want this on and wire it to be there. I've found ZEN72-to-ZEN72 direct association is more reliable for both on/off and dimming using direct association, than switch binding.
Direct association is still working and functional where I have light loads between ZEN72's. Thus, in a 4+-way switch where the light load is a ZEN72 and there is a mix of ZEN72 and ZEN35/ZEN32 devices, I program direct association between the ZEN72 devices and use switch binding for the ZEN35 / ZEN32 with the master ZEN72. If the light load is handled directly by a ZEN35/ZEN32, then it is entirely switch binding for all related devices including any ZEN72 (because direct association in a ZEN35 / ZEN32 is problematic).
Finally, I provided explicit feedback to Zooz that because multi-way switches have a traveler wire that essentially goes unused, it would be desirable for their switches to have the ability to do direct control of each other in a multi-way setup using the traveler wire for a communication line, and let the Z-wave hub handle higher level commands. This kind of device enhancement would require some electrical wiring knowledge thus it's not for novices (or some electricians), but it should be on their list for improvement. For now, we have the hub to do the work.
In larger more complicated homes, it's less likely someone will want direct dimming control of a light load in multiple locations. If they prefer it in a specific location, the switches can be re-wired (requires some electrical wiring knowledge) but in most cases can be done if you have neutral and ground in each.
In closing, I want to thank those who have responded on this thread ( @jtp10181, @kenrok1, @velvetfoot ) as I'm still new to what Z-wave can do and exploring its options. I have a large home I'm using as a proof of concept before rolling out to numerous short-term rental properties. The potential is great, but the options overwhelming and requires much testing.
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