Does C7 supports or is there a custom driver for ZWave first alert / CO detector ?
https://deafcoder.com/firstalert
My family are Deaf and we bee. looking for detectors like this to alert us via flashing lights.
We seen other brands but they seems to stop
manufacturing those.
Bill
Uses the Generic Z-Wave Plus Smoke/CO Detector driver.
Rather than limiting yourself to a few Z-wave/Zigbee smoke/co detectors, just get the best regular detector you can find.
Then you can use one of the solutions that has a Z-wave/Zigbee device listen for the detector and sends an alert to your Hubitat. I use the Ecolink Firefighter (which is separate but installed next to my smoke/CO detectors).
I was not able to find any decent priced hard wired interconnected alarms that were smart enabled so I also have one of the ecolink Firefighters and bought all new FirstAlert fire/co alarms.
There is another option as well that can piggy back on to a hardwired detector (if you have that ability in your home). You can order this Kidde relay module from various sources and build your own using any zwave or zigbee relay that can take switch inputs. Here is an example from Zooz which they sell pre-built.
@techbill If you had one of those siren detectors like the ecolink, you could create a rule to flash a light in all your rooms if you had a lamp for example plugged into a smart plug. And depending on how deaf you actually are, maybe a siren right next to your bed. Just a few thoughts.
To be fair, the z-wave+ First Alert Fire and CO detector works directly with Hubitat, as indicated by @thebearmay . A fire or smoke alert from it can be used directly as a trigger in Hubitat to flash lights etc. without adding any external device. In fact, in this instance, adding an additional, simply adds an additional point of failure.
@aaiyar I totally agree. He could do the things I mentioned by just using those ZWave First Alert smoke detectors and then creating those rules. BTW I use those First Alert models and they seem to work well. No false alarms either.
I am profound Deaf since birth so nothing will wake me up other than flashing lights and vibrating punk under bed mattress.
Never saw that piggy back item before. Thanks for sharing this info.
I am making sure I understood this correctly, I seen detector that daisy chain from one detector to next detector and this device connects to last detector on daisy chain then will alert the hub no matter which detector goes off even if it just only the first detector of the chain?
Does it mean I need to use a 120 wiring to daisy chain the detectors or does it use a low voltage wire like doorbell wiring to daisy chain it?
A 120 volt would probably be difficult to wire and require opening some walls to fish it from room to room then patch it again.
I would love to use a standard detectors daisy chain then something like this to link it to hub.
Buying all z-wave detector would be pricy but easier to install.
That the life of a Deaf person when you need those expensive special equipment to increase the safety in your home.
Do you know if the detector send a separate signal to Hubitat alerting which triggered it if it smoke or co alarm.
I am guessing the siren would probably have different tone for each alert but I am wondering if it does the same through z-wave alert.
While I don't have one of these, it will give distinct z-wave notifications for smoke v/s CO.
The only thing you should be aware of is that battery reporting with these is not good. Because you are unlikely to hear the low battery "chirp", I would recommend replacing batteries on a fixed annual schedule.
The hardwired interconnected devices are run off 120v lines using a 3-wire and red is the interconnect signal. The detectors run off line voltage so nice thing is there are no batteries to replace (just backup batteries for power outages). The red interconnect line might be low voltage, not sure.
Anyway, if you do not have existing wiring for this setup it would be a huge hassle to add it. I was just suggesting it in case you had existing wiring already behind your current alarms, as many homes do (mine was built in 1997 and it has it). Also having all the alarms go off would be of no use to you since you could not hear them.
I have seen some other wireless interconnected detectors that are not "smart" but if you went with those and then added an ecolink Firefighter near one it would pick it up. Could possibly be less expensive depending on how many detectors you need. I would think however a detector that has the hub connectivity built right in though would be the most reliable.
You could also be selective on where you put the combo alarms if there are just plain smoke alarms available. You really only need CO detection near gas appliances or fireplaces.
It should send a distinct notice to the hub, the zwave protocol has a specific notification for smoke and another for CO. The ecolink Firefighter I use supports it, I have tested both alarms and the hub recognizes them correctly.
If you don’t already have any, I would urge you to consider installing smoke and CO detectors with integrated strobe lights. There is a separate UL standard for fire safety devices that both sound a siren/horn and flash a strobe light.
Any of the major smoke detector manufacturers should have models that adhere to that standard. Here's an example from First Alert, it's a newer model that's hardwired with a sealed, 10-year backup battery.
Bed/pillow shakers are also an important consideration for very hard of hearing or deaf people that are asleep when the smoke/CO detector goes off.
It's imperative to use Hubitat, or any smart home hub, and its wireless connected sensors/actuators only as an add-on to a fully local solution with devices that adhere to UL standards for residential fire safety, in any of the rooms of your home that need detector or alerting devices.
The Ecolink firefighter is a nice example of a device that can bring the local alerting capabilities of UL-listed fire safety devices into the Hubitat ecosystem, either for remote notifications or additional functions in the home like turning on lights, turning off HVAC systems, etc.
I am trying to find a direct wire connection instead of batteries. I am thinking maybe going with one of those standard daisy chain detector then add an module to connect it to hubitat.
I see two PROs with this method. One is that I can use any brand detector that support daisy chain connection and second it probably cheaper and easier in the long run 10 years later when it time to replace every detector then I can just swap out the existing detectors with new ones.
This way I do not have to remove all old detectors from hub and then relearn the new detectors to hub. Also it probably be an pain in rear to add it back in rule setup etc etc all swapping the old detector device with new detector device.
I am leaning toward to do a standard daisy setup detectors and hooking up a z-wave module on one of those detectors in the chain. With one module to learn and set up in rule setup would make it a lot easier to maintain.
I agree. And Zooz sell a premade module that would be suited for this.
We have strobe light smoke only detector in our bedroom but that only work if smoke entered in our bedroom. It does support daisy chain however it was provided to us for free by the local fire department and Deaf people can only get one per household. It does not do CO detection.
We looked into buying the same brand to change all other room out to daisy chain it and the price on those are like 100+ dollar a piece. We are below middle class range so it wasn't a affordable method for us to take.
This one cost 140+ dollar plus and it will be useful to only have it in our bedroom while all other room just have a standard detector with no alert light daisy chained to it. Another thing that concern me is that "led" strobe light, I don't know how bright that is or what color range is it in? Our current strobe detector is still using the glass long thin style strobe light bulb and it very blinding bright which would wake up us every time.
We want something daisy chain reason is that we heat our home with natural gas and we would like to have a CO detector as well in the maintenance room of our house in basement to alert us when there a leak or smoke.
We did have furnace wiring catch on fire because the gas was leaking from the pipe joint and it did ignite the gas but some gas safety feature shut the gas off stopping the fire. However wiring on the furnace was burning up in flame so lucky I smelled the burning plastic and quickly put the burning wires out by swapping bath towels on it at around midnight.
Reason the gas was leaking from joint ------ earlier the day ----- our gas man came our to light the pilot flame for us and he wanted to speed the bleeding air from pipe by loosing up the joint near gas controller box. I called the 24/7 gas emergency line after I managed to put out the fire and they sent someone out to fix it at 2am because it was freezing and there was like several foot of snow on the ground. I am sure they were willing to fix it asap since it was their worker that caused the fire in the first place.
My house was built in 1979 and it would not be that huge a hassle to all detector in every room and daisy chain since top floor can be all done in the attic easily.
But .... I also have finished basement with 3 bedroom, game room and a bathroom so that will be somewhat a challenge to run the wiring in basement to each of those room. I probably will have to cut patches in wall near ceiling to fish wiring around from room to room.
Now I need to read up to see what the code are installing the wiring for detector or it just the same code as installing ceiling lights which mean using gang boxes and making sure each is grounded with neutral wire etc etc using the romax wiring etc.
Here are the wireless interconnected ones I had seen before. I could not find any with a strobe or even an add-on strobe for their Link system. I was curious to see if you could connect to the hardwired interconnected and looked on their site. They have hard wired ones as well but unfortunately no bridge from the hard wired to the wireless. You would think they would have one that does both 
so you could mix the two.
If they had an optional strobe that connected to the Link system on these they could have been perfect for you.
It looks like first alert makes a strobe-only device available on the Amazon product page, at $80 it’s not cheap but better than the price of the smoke/co model.
Re: the brightness of the LED strobe on the First Alert detector. Since it complies with the relevant UL standard, it has to be "bright enough" (however that's defined, although I don't actually know the details).
I was just thinking about that earlier today at work and you beat me to it 
I was sort of hoping that the wireless on could bridge to a wired one cuz I do have two room in basement that would be a pain to hardwire without cutting a hole in walls to snake wires
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