My hubitat device is on the way. My Wink 2 hub is stilll in use. I have an ORBI mesh wifi system.
My devices are as follows.
CANARY AIO
Ring pro doorbell
Ring floodlight cam
Ring floodlight no cam
Wyze standard camera
My Q garage opener but I do not own the hub
Multiple (approx 30 total) Lutron caseta dimmers and lamp dimmers & PICOS, I have the standard hub but do not use it since I use wink 2 as the hub.
Multiple Iris contact sensors
Multiple Iris motion sensors
Multiple Iris water sensors
Multiple Iris wall plugs
Dome water valve
August smart lock w/ keypad NOT PRO
Ecobee thermostat and (4 sensors)
Any issues with the devices I have and how they integrate with hubitat?
I have already ordered a caseta pro hub because ive read i need that.
I use 6 Amazon echo in conjunction with these devices
Are there any tips prior to deactivating devices from the wink hub 2 that would make migrating to the hubitat easier? Any tips for the devices that I own? Any suggested purchases to enhance my setup?
ANY starter tips or threads would be appreciated, thank you!
Welcome to the Wink refugee club! I'm one as well and fairly recent. I have some of the similar devices as you and can comment on my experience:
For Ring doorbell, I believe that there is a community integration, but I found it simpler to just to use an Amazon Routine to trigger a Hubitat virtual switch. This in turn triggers a rule in RM to turn on lights for 15 min after motion detected between Sunset and Sunrise
For Wyze Cameras, if you want to automate anything (motion, etc) you'll need to use IFTTT
MyQ - There is a community integration (I just installed), but you will need the MyQ hub.
I am a big Lutron user. Hubitat has native integration. Remove them one by one from Wink; for Hubitat ,follow the instructions to add them. Picos now become very powerful and you can use them to turn non-Lutron lights on/off and run rutines. You said your getting the Pro Hub, be sure it's a Pro 2 hub. I found that the Pro hub can't be set up new with the Lutron App. Lutron sent me a Pro 2 hub for free.
For any ZigBee / Zwave devices, remove one, then add immediately to Hubitat. Don't remove all at the same time from Wink. This makes adding much easier.
I have Dome as well, and found that I could not pair unless I moved the hub near the valve. Good thing I had a long Ethernet cable. Note, NEVER unplug the Hubitat hub from power, without performing a shutdown from the system menu. Evidently, the hub's databases can become corrupted.
All the above advice is good! I believe @aaiyar came from Wink, so he may have even more good and specific advice. I didn't come from Wink but have read lots of stories from people who came from various platforms, including Wink, and will reiterate one of the points above: if you have a Z-Wave device that won't pair to Hubitat, a likely cause is that it still thinks it's paired to Wink (or something else). Usually an exclusion is enough to un-do this (this can be done by politely removing the device from your old hub, but Hubitat can also be put into "Z-Wave Exclusion" mode for any device, known or unknown, an option you'll also see when trying to pair). Sometimes, a factory reset on the device might help if nothing else does. You'll also need to unpair or reset Zigbee devices from Wink, but they tend to be easier and less picky.
Another thing to be aware of: powered devices for one protocol (Z-Wave or Zigbee) are generally repeaters for that protocol. If you have a relatively small number of repeaters (or even if you don't, but this is more of an issue if you do), you'll be destroying one mesh as you try to build the other. Wink may become even more wonky in the meantime. There's no "right" order to do things, but I always like to add repeaters first, working from the hub outwards, then add battery devices in whatever order (yes, I've rebuilt my mesh on Hubitat a few times "for fun," besides just the time I migrated from my two previous platforms). The following documents may help but also might be things you're familiar with, having already used these protocols: How to Build a Solid Zigbee Mesh - Hubitat Documentation and How to Build a Solid Z-Wave Mesh - Hubitat Documentation. This doesn't really work if you can't do your whole network in one day or don't want to live without some automations in the meantime, so... again, no "right" way.
I'd also recommend checking the compatible devices list: List of Compatible Devices - Hubitat Documentation. I recognize many of your devices as being compatible (all of the Iris v2 sensors and the plug, for example, assuming that's what you mean). As mentioned above, there are workarounds but nothing official for Ring or MyQ. I haven't heard of anything for the non-Z-Wave August, but there might be something. In any case, sticking to this list is the best way to ensure a good experience since the devices there have been tested to work with drivers included with the platform. Many others that haven't been tested will still work with these, and there are community integrations for even more devices, but that's a bit of a risk if you're not sure (less so for you since you already have the devices, I guess!).
@bertabcd1234's advice is rock solid. Take the time to build strong z-wave and zigbee mesh networks.
Currently, it seems like the only z-wave device you have is the Dome water valve. Some Iris wall plugs can act as zigbee and z-wave repeaters. It would be perfect if you had that kind.
If you have an Android device and already have or are willing to pay for Tasker, it can act as the intermediary between Wyze Cameras and a virtual motion device that you create on HE and it will be faster that IFTTT. I do that with Wyze cameras, Eufy Doorbell, and Amcrest Cameras.
I'm an iPhone user here (for the most part). Currently my only "Wyze integration" is to use a Wyze contact sensor on my freezer chest to turn on a TP link light above it when it is opened and turn off the light when it is closed. Even using IFTTT, Wyze and TP Link cloud it is surprisingly quick … less than 2 seconds. But once you get used to the near instantaneous response with local execution on the HE, 2 seconds seems like an eternity.
The August stuff you listed works on Bluetooth I think. There won't be any way to integrate that into Hubitat as it now stands unless something new has popped up.
Also a Wink Refugee. Hopefully your transition is going well. I 2nd the need to exclude Z-Wave devices using the Wink App, and then unplugging the hub. Doing things one at a time is not only more simple, but makes the process a little less flustering as well. If your not a power user already (a lot of Wink users weren't, which is why Wink worked so well for us), the setup of HE can be a little overwhelming. Make sure you give yourself ample time for the set up.
I also found that, for whatever reason, Z-Wave devices that connected well and had consistent performance with Wink were a little less reliable when integrated into HE if they were spread around the house and across multiple floors. The Aeotec Range Extender 6, Z-Wave Plus Repeaters fixed this problem with ease. Its another $50 bucks for a 2 pack if your paying full price for them, but well worth the investment.
Also I put a zigbee repeater in each room in the form of a plug. The Securfi Peanuts and Tradfri Ikea signal repeaters (double as usb charger) both do a great job of this and I found it to be the cheapest and easiest options as opposed to in wall switches/plugs. All three of those products have direct integration with HE as well.
Sorry I am late to the post. Have fun! HE blows Wink out of the water.
For the Wink2 - once I migrated over, I removed all my devices and moved them to HE, I then turned my Wink2 into a z-wave repeater which has been fantastic. Instructions here: Wink Hub 2 as zwave repeater/secondary controller
Glad to have you. While Wink was awesome and I miss some of their stuff, I'm 1,000 times happier on HE and I'm actually starting to 'automate' my home instead of just having a good smart way to do timers and remote control.
I'm considering whether to keep the routine in Alexa vs keeping it in Hubitat since I have the Ring Doorbell as well. I just tested a simple routine in Alexa (created a virtual motion sensor in Hubitat and turned it on). Alexa turned on the light using the virtual motion sensor activated as trigger, waited for the defined amount of time and then turned it off. The lights are exposed to Alexa via the Alexa Skill in Hubitat.
I could do the same rule in Hubitat by having Alexa trigger the virtual switch but am wondering if there is any benefit. If internet is down, Alexa won't be able to trigger the lights but in the flip situation, Hubitat won't see the virtual switch triggered by Alexa either, right?
This would be the only "automation" in Alexa since it is triggered by Ring, Any pros/cons or a suggestions on a better way to do this would be appreciated. Thanks!
I really don’t thing there are and pros or cons. The virtual switch to trigger an HE routine is one extra step that you avoid by keeping the routine in alexa.
But from a maintenance side, i like maintaining as much as possible in HE so i use alexa routines as little as possible and hand off to HE as soon as I can.
There's no "right" order to do things, but I always like to add repeaters first, working from the hub outwards, then add battery devices in whatever order (yes, I've rebuilt my mesh on Hubitat a few times "for fun," besides just the time I migrated from my two previous platforms). The following documents may help but also might be things you're familiar with, having already used these protocols: 
