Water Shutoff valve that works with Hubitat

There are tons of Water shutoff valves that all are WiFi, but none that are Zway or Zigbee.

Anyone know of any that work localy with Habitat.

I want to avoid ones that work with IFTTT or need cloud access.. assuming that if water is an issue, power might be effected.

I use this one:



There are plenty of z-wave/zigbee water shutoff valves that are controlled locally by Hubitat. Here's a initial stab at a list:

  1. Zigbee: Waxman LeakSmart
  2. Zigbee: Sinope water valve
  3. Z-wave: FortrezZ WV-01
  4. Z-wave: Watercop water valve
  5. Z-wave: Dome Automation water shut off valve
  6. Z-wave: EcoNet Bulldog high torque water valve

Finally, you could also use any motorized NC/NO water valve and control it using a z-wave or zigbee outlet.

Edit: FWIW, I use the Waxman Leaksmart. It has worked very reliably for 4+ years ....


I use the homeseer zwave plus valve (rebranded water gopher).


Great.. thanks.. for some reason my amazon search did not show everything..

I’ve used the Dome for years as well, and have had nothing but problems. I even replaced my quarter-turn valve (which was either dumb or fun, depending on your perspective). No joy. Caution here.

I do not use mine all that often but every now and again test to be safe - has worked for me for 5 years so far. Am going to test again today just to be sure.


Similar experience. I've used something like the Dome (made by EcoNet controls - same motor). It was not a good install - the motor didn't have enough torque. However the new high-torque motor in EcoNet's bulldog valve is made for sticky ball valves like the one I had.

The Waxman Leaksmart was much more work to install. I had to shut off the city supply, cut copper and sweat the valve on. But it has worked flawlessly.

Here is a neat alternative to the water valves. You can connect a 12vdc, 2A wall transformer to it and plug that into any power plug of your choice. This is a unique device in that when power is applied it opens it and then the solenoid de-energizes itself so it is not constantly pulling current. When power is removed it automatically closes the valve. Pretty nice.



Here's the list from the officially supported documents listing.

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Nice find. I've been thinking about cannibalizing a motorized ball valve to get a rotary actuator in order to cobble together a surface mount deadbolt.


I've been using Dome (Zwave) with Wink and now Hubitat in conjunction with Samsung leak sensors. I haven't had any issues in my installation.

Very funny!:roll_eyes:

I have had the Dome for about 3 years and have never had a problem. I will say I have a new home construction, so the valve is new and smooth.

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Yes, to add, I had a new valve installed prior to my Dome installation. My old valve had too much calcification and was harder to turn and didn't shut off all the way. When I got the new valve at Lowes for the plumber, I went through multiple valves to find the smoothest feeling shut off. From time of water detection to complete flow stop during a test is less than 10 seconds.

I'm using a LeakGopher and have been very happy with it.

I have the Watercop/Fortrezz Z-Wave valve and am only moderately satisfied with it. What it does well is open and close its valve. I don't trust something like Dome to work with my existing valve.

What it doesn't do well is stay online, and is Z-Wave, not Z-Wave Plus. I have it plugged into a smart plug so I can power cycle it to put it back online if necessary. And I put a Wyze camera on it so I can see what it is doing remotely. I've given some thought to putting relays wired into the open/closed buttons on it and take its Z-Wave radio out of the equation.

You don't necessarily need a camera.
There is an unused contact group inside the valve control box. I've hooked up a contact sensor for verification purposes.
And I vaguely remember seeing contacts on the PCB that (I believe) can also be used. This may be more reliable but there will be soldering involved.

It's a cheap Wyze pan camera so I also use it to make sure the sump pump isn't overflowing and other things in the crawl space.

Did you happen to take a picture of the PCB? As I said, I'm very tempted to put relay closures across the Open/Close buttons and control it with Konnected instead of depending on the Z-Wave (it happens to be in a place I can run thermostat wire to it fairly easily.

I picked up one of the on ebay and was so put off at how gi-frigging-normous the thing was that I ended up not using it and re-sold it on ebay. The thing is build like a tank but it's HUGE.