Visonic Contact sensors

Hi. The compatibility chart shows MCT-340 E, MCT-340 SMA as omcpatible devices.
Anyone know if the 350s are compatible.
Perry good lot sale on ebay.

XFINITY Security XHS2-TY MCT-350 ZigBee Wireless Door Window Sensor LOT OF 10 47 dollars.

Not a bad deal if they work.

Appears they work fine.

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Working for me...this is what they're showing and they picked up the Generic Zigbee Contact Sensor driver

  • endpointId: 01
  • model: URC4460BC0-X-R
  • application: 01
  • firmwareMT: 10EF-0001-20160921
  • softwareBuild: 20160921
  • manufacturer: Universal Electronics Inc

EDIT: Just paired one I had in my stock and noticed the instructions (not that I read them, brew ha ha haaa :face_with_spiral_eyes:) were titled XHS2-UE and I think I have the -TY previously installed. Your referenced seller had this listed under the MPN: "XHS2-TY, XHS2-UE, XHS2" with no reference to Visonic's "350" designation on the instructions so I guess these are all Visonic designed but Universal Electronics manufactured for Xfinity.

I noticed this one I just installed seems a little less "talkative" on the temp updates. I don't think I have that set any differently at 0.5C. But that's OK, I'd rather the battery LAST longer. It's out in a semi-enclosed outdoor space some 75' from an Ikea repeater in weatherproof box on the side of a building.

I've bought the same, they work wonderfully.

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Sorry for reviving an old post. I have a number of MCT-340 contact sensors that I'm migrating from SmartThings that even after I do a reset to factory defaults (pull battery, press and hold intrusion switch, reinsert battery, release switch when light lights), I still cannot get it to pair with my Hubitat. Is there another reset operation that I could use to get these devices to work?

One hint: when these sensors were on ST, I was using a non-default driver. Could that driver have configured these sensors in a way to prevent them from being fully factory reset and then cannot be used with Hobitat?

I have a ton of MCT-340 contact sensors on my system, and came from smart things probably using the same driver you were using. The driver used on smart things would not change the default behaviors and ability to join the device to HE.

I've never had any issues joining these devices to my hub, and they work just fine with the generic Zigbee contact sensor driver.

I have noticed there could be some timing issues with when you release the tamper switch. Play around maybe with the exact timing and when you release that switch. Hold it a little longer or hold it a little shorter.

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I used to recommend these things all the time cause you can get them cheap on eBay. Now i wouldn't wish these on my worst enemy. I have to throw them out every time a battery goes out (Thrown 9 now, 10 and 11 are ready as soon as i buy something to replace them with). I believe these have terrible battery contacts and the process of changing the battery destroys them. Also they have the absolute worst pairing system ever devised, a crime against humanity really.

When I had them on ST, they would eat batteries like no tomorrow. I generally had to replace the CR2032s every 2-4 months or so. For those that I only want to use as temp sensors especially in external locations, I wired in lithium batteries in a battery holder and put that package in a waterproof enclosure. That works, but I still need to feed the others with Panasonic 2032 batteries regularly.

For my pairing problem, I have not yet found a timing sequence that works, whether I hold the button for 1 sec or 2 or 4 or 8 or 16. It just defiantly blinks at me with HE ignoring it.

Hmm maybe mine werent all broken just wont re-pair. Either way I dont buy sensors that use cell/button style batteries anymore. Once I discovered Third Reality uses aaa batteries I never looked back.

That's unfortunate that yours aren't pairing. I'm not home right now but when I'm back I've got some spare ones in a box and I'll give a try pairing them and see if I'm having any problems, and find a workaround.

Did you try the simplest thing and just sit right on top of the hub while you're trying to pair them?

Yes, I did that. 6" away. And 2' away. And 5' away. No change.

One thing I noticed when I just paired a sensor that did pair properly, that when you press and released the button, the LED lit for a sec before it sent into its 3-flash sequence. For the ones the do not pair, they do not do that. They start immediately doing the 3-flashes. I have not found a default or reset sequence that could cause that response.

I looked at the Third Reality sensors. They are big! I suppose with AA batteries they need to be, but they will stick out on the doors and windows much more than the Visonic.

You have interference. I have quite a few Visonic Contact sensors and when this happened. I shut off my Hue bridge, ST, and my other HE hubs even though they are not using the same Zigbee channel.

Bigger yes, crazy bigger, i guess you decide. Also throw out the magnetic side and buy a container of those tiny rare earth magnets. They can easily be hidden/embedded.

Hmmm, maybe, although the only thing near Hubitat is a WiFi access point and a few WiFi clients.
Also I have Zigbee on its channel 26 and my WiFi is on its ch 6, so they should be separated enough spectrum-wise to not cause interference. My ST is unplugged with batteries out, so I should have no interference from another Zigbee source. For one of the sensors that was difficult to move that will not pair that is away from any WiFi sources, I did try using an extension cord and a long ethernet cable to attach to HE to get it near the sensor but it still would not pair. Are there any logs in HE that might help to figure out why those devices will not pair?

I don't think there is any log for failed pairing but you can open a live log during pairing.
I find channel 26 is not the greatest for Zigbee H.A 1.2 devices. They like channel 18 or 20.
You can switch your Hubitat to 20, pair your Visonic and switch back to 26 afterward.


That was it. I changed to ch 20, then all 3 of the problem devices paired immediately. Thanks for the info. But ch 20 is in the sidelobe of WiFi ch 6, so I may experiment with moving again to ch 22 or ch 24 to give myself a little more margin, especially since I do not use WiFi ch 11. As you point out, staying away from ch 26 (or 25) is probably a good idea.

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