Thermostat Choices

From the CT-100 Plus Users Guide:

Swing (HVAC Cycling Rate)
This feature enables you to set the acceptable variance in
temperature between the CT100’s setting and the current room
temperature before the heating or cooling system will turn on. The
Swing range can be from 0.5 to 4.0F (.25 to 2C). For example, if Swing
is set to 2.0°F and the CT100 is set to 70°F target temperature, the
heat cycle will start when the room temperature drops to 68°F.
Similarly, the cooling system will start when the room temperature
increases to 72°F. The HVAC runs until the room reaches the target
temperature, and then shuts off

If I am understanding this correctly, it means it will switch from auto/heat to auto/cool at 72 degrees F and from auto/cool to auto/heat at 68 degrees F.
I currently have a CT-100 and it appears to work this way except it does it very very slowly. That's actually why was checking to see if any other zwave thermostat could do this.
You may rest assured that will be the FIRST thing I check when I get it installed. :wink:

It will be interesting what you fine :slight_smile: I mostly curious about how it controls heating. I have an oil fired boiler with circulated hot water for heating. The system has a large lag time inherent in this type of system. Older not-smart programmable thermostats used a cycle per hour control method where I would set the number of cycles per hour and the difference between the target temperature and actual temperature would control the amount of time the heat is on for each cycle. This resulted in a quasi-proportional control.
If I under stand correctly, most of the "smart" thermostats are a simple set point with hysteresis, kind of what might be called a bang-bang control scheme. Not good for my system.

Sorry .... I got a little off the thread here.

John

There is also a "diff" setting:

Used for multiple stage systems only. Not available on-screen for single stage systems.The Differential is the number of degrees between the room
temperature and the target temperature at which the 2nd stage
will engage to bring the room temperature back to the target. The
default is 2°F. The programmable range is 2°F to 6°F (1°- 3°C).

If you could, would you please post the firmware level of your CT-100?

Sorry I took so long to get back to you.
The only version I could find for my CT100 is 'Rev A' printed on the back. The manuals don't mention it at all.
I just got a new CT32 delivered today and thought I'd play with it until my CT100 Plus arrives. So far, it appears better than the CT100 but still not good enough. When I increment both the heat and cool setpoints at the same time, the CT100 fails to increment both about 50% of the time. The CT32 only fails once or twice out of 10 attempts.
Better, but no cigar. ;-(
The heat/cool change over in auto mode does seem quicker. Still testing that.

That is not in the manual for the CT100 nor the CT32 and I tried it on the CT32 and it doesn't work. It IS in the manual for the CT100+ so I intend to try that when it gets here.
I suspect that works on the newer models but not the older ones.
Or were you replying to someone else?

I was just posting it for anyone who has a CT100 or a CT101 would post back. My theory is that there is a firmware issue with those thermostats which is creating the symptoms we are seeing. I am interested to see what version the CT100+ is running.

I have the same issue with a 3m-50... I don't think its firmware as mine worked solid when I was using ST, unless ST did something under the hood and sent the command a hundred times. As it stands right now, I send one command at a time and put a delay of 5 seconds in between each. It makes for a overly long rule and is cumbersome as heck when I need to make a change.

This might have something to do with it:

I was wrong about not being able to get the firmware level on the CT100.

CT100 that I've been using for several years: F1.07, 9.10 (note no 'r' for the radio firmware)

CT32 that I used for a couple of days: F1.00, r10.01

CT100 Plus that I'm currently testing: F1.00, r10.07

Hope this helps.

BTW, which symptoms are you looking for?

I bought the Trane 524 but not having any luck pairing it. Did you?

Sorry, I ended up with the centralite. I couldn't get anyone to confirm that the Trane would work

I have been looking at Z-wave and Zigbee thermostats. Though I have read much of this thread, it is a bit dated.

How has the pearl worked out?

Are there any the community would recommend? Note that ease of installation is not a selling point for me, far more concerned with ongoing usage, integrated sensors, HE and ST integration. It’s own driver if that is better than generic would be a plus.

I have the Pearl, but removed it and went back to the Zen. The reason: no automatic changeover from heating to cooling. In the spring and fall, there are too many days and nights where it is warm enough to require AC followed by a short spell of cold enough to require heat, then repeat. After removing and factory resetting the Zen, it has been behaving very well. At least I did not pay much for the Pearl.

I tried 2 Pearls. Didn't like them. First, they just didn't look good on my walls. Second, no matter what I tried, the battery level always started out at 80. I changed to the KONOz and haven't looked back. They look great and I've had zero issues with functionality. I was a Nest user for years.

3 Likes

I use a Zen thermostat. The human interface Is very clean and straight forward. It can’t intrinsically schedule temperature changes, but it doesn’t need to. I do that with HE. It speaks Z-wave, so it is a natural fit with HE and it is completely local control.

It’s simplicity makes it much less daunting to approach by non-techies. Add to that, when you aren’t interacting with it in person, it blends into it’s surroundings. It is just a white box on the wall. My wife and I like it better than anything else we have used.

1 Like

I also can't recommend the Pearls as I am looking to switch away from them. For starters the generic zigbee driver doesn't work 100% - the operating state doesn't report correctly within HE.

The cycling/deadband/swing temperature on the Pearl is just too much. The minimum it can be set to is 1 degrees and that is misleading since it's really 2 degrees. The house goes from too hot and somewhat uncomfortable to too cold to often.

I just ordered a Vivint Element Thermostat and am going to try one out before I switch over both.

1 Like

I'm still recommending the Vivint CT-200. Wonderful, pretty, little thermostat :slight_smile: @JasonJoel just made a driver for it, too!

2 Likes

@adamkempenich I looked over the Vivint website. It seems you cannot buy anything without calling them for a consultation. Is that really the case?

1 Like

As far as I know - yes. I think we are all buying them off eBay.

3 Likes