Just curious on your comments regarding dummy loads. Is it typical for output to vary on 0-10V controls depending on what is connected? I saw some strange readings on the Leviton 0-10V dimmer. Then I got a PM from @Kyl on getting his fantech ecm fan working:
@Kyl did get his Fantech EC fan working using the wiring below, with what he figures is a 10V reference voltage added in (he'll post here with follow up pics)
Fantech red 10v reference AND Fantech yellow 0-10v input -> leviton purple +0-10v
It sure sounds like he had to run connect the Fantech +10V supply together with the +10V control leads on his fantech fan to get it working. This makes no sense to me...
The AC infinity fans work fine with the Leviton 0-10V dimmer, but at the low voltages (as in under .1 V) the fan speed seems to randomly wander up and down, enough to be noticeable in CFM output. I'm going to test with the Zooz 0-10v to see if I can refine that behaviour a bit.
I wanted to make sure that the voltage did not change with and without a load.
I chose 470 ohms as at 10 volts, a 500 ohm load would draw 20 mA and I chose that load sort of arbitrarily.
I knew (assumed) the power supply could deliver much more although not stated, but I am going to use these for driving the analog input of a VFD for a big fan speed control (2 h.p.), and I wanted to see if the voltage with and without a load would change and it doesn't change enough to be of a concern to me.
The 54 seems to use a programmable SMPS for the DC output, and sometimes these supplies change slightly with different loads.
@jtp10181 , the driver works perfectly...awesome work sir
I tested out the Zen54 Zooz zWave 0-10V dimmer on an AC Infinity 4" CloudLine EC fan and it works a treat. Here is how it is wired. The Zooz dimmer is small enough to fit into the Cloudline Fan housing if you remove a bit of the corner bracing plastic inside the housing.
If connecting a dumb switch to toggle the fan on/off you would connect the blue wire (SW) from the relay to one side of the switch (instead of directly to ground as I have it shown), and connect the other side of the switch back to the grey (ground) wire.
The Zen54 dimmer does a better job with these fans with respect to voltages, particularly at the the lower speeds where granularity under 1 volt makes a difference on finer fan speed control.
I can confirm that the TerraBloom EC fans work very nicely with the Zooz Zen54 0-10V dimmer.
Connect the Zooz Zen 54 grey wire to Terrabloom black wire (using their DIY wiring plug)
Connect Zooz Zen54 violet wire to Terrabloom blue wire (using their DIY wiring plug)
Terrabloom red and yellow wires are not connected.
Iām using the Zen54 to automate the exhaust fan hood (terrabloom 6ā fan with metal case) to the induction cook top. The fan turns on/off and ramps up or down depending on power use by the cooktop
This is a bit of a mess as I connected up everything first to make sure it all worked. The Zooz Zen54 "switch" wiring (just dry contacts really) are connected to the exhaust hood's existing fan switch. The "load" wire goes up to power the Terrabloom fan on and off, as do the 0-10V wires to control it's speed. It all tucks up under the hood's metal connection shielding.
Here is what I sorted to have the kitchen fan speed set according to power use on the induction cooktop, with 1:30 seconds of max speed to pop the exhaust hood ball. I'm using an insulated Broan Ecovent for the outside hood. This hood has a foam ball which falls back into an insulated bowl to seal up the vent when not on use. That ball can become slightly frozen in place in very cold weather, hence the 1:30 time with the fan going at 100%. The extra pressure pops the ball out...otherwise there is no venting!
1st I needed to figure out a relationship between induction power and dimmer settings. I did that here: Slope Calculator
I figured when the induction cooktop is at 250 watts, I want the fan at 40% and with power at 4000 watts, the fan should ramp to 99%. Plug those numbers into the graphing web site above and you get "Dimmer Setting" = 0.0157 * (Induction Power in watts) + 36. The equation I'm using in the 3rd pic here is actually Dimmer Setting = 0.02 * (induction power in watts) + 34
Turns fan on with cook top use and sets it to full power for 1:30 seconds, then ramps it down to 50%. At this point, the speed will be set dynamically every time power use changes on the cooktop.
Modifies the kitchen fan speed every time power level on induction cooktop changes...but not until it runs at full power for 1:30 minutes. I set a variable, then do some math on it to arrive at the "correct" dimmer setting for the fan.
After observing the system for a few months, I realized that Co2 levels in our home vary quite a bit by floor, depending on occupancy in those areas. To that end, I added two AirThings Wave Plus sensors which add radon and VOC sensing to the system.
The Hubitat hub now takes the average CO2 over the 3 sensors to set the ventilation rate on the EC fans. Additionally, if VOC levels are over 200ppb, it sets the fans at max (balanced) flow. CO2 averaging works better at night where previously the main floor CO2 levels would drop, lowering air exchange CFM, but we'd see fairly high CO2 levels in the upstairs bedrooms. Averaging ensures that high values in one area will increase the home's air exchange rate.
We've never tested our home for Radon, so it's also reassuring to see that levels are actually pretty low.
AC infinity white wire is a TACH output (not ground).
Hey guys thank you for this information. I just got an AC Infinitiy 10" fan and did some testing on it and I want to share a couple things.
Red is +10VDC out
Black is ground
Yellow is the control input. You can give it 10V PWM (like the factory remote control) but it also accepts a 0-10V analog control. I was able to control it with nothing more than a 5K potentiometer. A cool thing about this is that it should allow the use of off-the-shelf proportional thermostats eg Honeywell TB7980.
The white wire it a tachometer output that can be used to monitor the RPM of the fan. You must provide an external pull-up resistor (eg 10K to +5V) to see the signal. It is not a ground! If you watch this on a scope you will see a frequency, presumably indicating RPM directly, that varies with the fan speed.
Tying the white wire to ground isn't going to hurt anything but it doesn't provide a ground connection, either. Only the black is ground.
I'm stoked about this fan. It's nice to have something with many options for how to control it.
Sean, have you tried either the Leviton ZS057-D0Z Zigbee Dimmer or Zooz Zen54 zWave 0-10V dimmer with these fans? I have not poked around with these in a while, but pretty sure connecting the ground on the 0-10V controllers to ground (black) on the fan controller did not work for me.
That said, the Terrabloom blue wire is a tach signal, so it makes sense that the AC Infinity white serves the same function.
No I don't have one of those dimmers. So that's puzzling. Maybe I should get one.
What I want to do is balance the temperature between two rooms, so I want to run the fan slow when there's a small temperature difference, and fast when there is a big temperature difference. So I was going to do this using a ControlByWeb product and some 1-wire temp sensors.
I'll play around a bit here...I have an extra Zen54 and a few AC fans. I've standardised pretty much any temp sensing for our pool control and HRV system on Fibaro Smart Implants which each can host up to six DS18B20 (inexpensive!) temp sensors.
@sean97702 , I switched over the Leviton 0-10 Volt ground wire to the AC infinity black and yep..it works, and actually works correctly now. I have a 4" and 6" fan working in my HRV project. Previously the speeds would change with 0-10V changes, but the adjustment stopped at about 30%. Now the speed works as it should, with 99 steps of change from barely on, to full speed. Not sure how I missed that but likely was hesitant to experiment and toast a controller.
The other issue with the 0-10v Leviton dimmer ground connected to the AC Infinity tach signal wire is that at lower speed settings I could hear the fan wandering slightly...makes sense if you consider that the Leviton 0-10V dimmer was not seeing a correct ground signal.
I've corrected my post with a credit here to you...thanks!
I fired up the thread specifically as there was next to nothing out there about automating these 0-10V EC fans, other than from Terrabloom. It looks like they all use pretty much the same control scheme. Our HRV uses two EC fans with four balanced ventilation profiles and inline heaters..all possible because of the 0-10V automation options provided by Leviton and Zooz.
Our Inline EC kitchen exhaust fan is also automated and varies speed based on the induction cooktop power use, using the Zooz Zen54 and an Aeotec 220V (power monitoring) Zwave switch.
The first time I heard of 0-10V signaling is when I was looking at variable dampers. You can do a proportional restriction of the airflow from your central HVAC. It's actually a fantastic solution for adding zoning to "smart" systems that don't support it in a nice way (eg Nest or the high-end Lennox stats). This would be called "standalone VAV zoning" and there are stats from Honeywell and damper motors by Belimo that let you do this.
You have two options with those, they can be either 0-10V (absolute signaling) or they can operate on timed pulses to indicate some amount relative to the current position.
So, 0-10V seems to be kind of an emerging standard. It seems like a nice way to do things for airflow control, whether we are talking about fans or dampers.
A variable damper is another great application for the Zooz Zen54 0-10V controller run by Hubitat. I haven't seen this done yet. 0-10v dampers have been around for some time in the commercial world.
One of the challenges of ventilating via HRV/ERV is getting CO2 levels down in rooms at night, while having fresh air in the living spaces during the day. With a dedicated ducted system, controlling a damper that increases flow to bedrooms at night, by directing it way from vacant living spaces would be an easy project via 0-10V. This in turn would allow one to lower the overall ventilation rate (a good thing in very cold climates) while targeting fresh air where it's needed the most.
Hey @Kyl. I'm a novice looking for a solution to control a Fantech RVF6XL EC Ext kitchen exhaust fan, wirelessly. I have a zwave capable alarm panel and a Phillips hue hub, but like you am not a Hubitat user. I live in the northeast US, where it goes below 30F, so I need something on the fan side that is weatherproof. I'm fine with RF, as I don't need it to be "smart", but can't seem to find anything rated for outdoor fans. Any help would be appreciated!
I think you're going to be hard pressed to find a solutino with 0-10V dimming that you can automate, aside from the Levition or Zooz products I linked to in the first post. To control these, you are going to need a hub that would support them. Hubitat has worked very well with these devices. As far as cold, I'd just locate the device inside and run the low voltage control wires to the fan outside.
If you just want to control the fan and a dumb switch is ok, use this: https://www.aartech.ca/dd710-bdz The Fantech wires likely match up with the information in this thread:
