Sonoff ZBMINI

I have Aqara contact sensors which work fine with ZBMINI.

All the ZBMINI devices show up in Neighbor Table Entry. All end devices go through them except one.

Quick question - most of the switches that I have are double gang boxes (US). Will I be able to fit 2 of these in a single box?

You should be able to. Depends how many other wires you have spliced in there and if it's a shallow or regular depth box, but I would think you'd be able to cram 2 in. I was able to tuck one in just fine along the side without issues. Worst case would be trimming down the wires to reduce the excess material in the box.

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@mike.maxwell I think maybe this got missed as it doesn't pickup the Generic ZigBee Switch driver at least in current 2.2.5.131. Or perhaps the fingerprint has changed in recent devices.

fingerprint profileId:"0104", endpointId:"01", inClusters:"0000,0003,0004,0005,0006,1000", outClusters:"1000", model:"01MINIZB", manufacturer:"SONOFF"

ID: E32C
Manufacturer: SONOFF
Product Name:
Model Number: 01MINIZB
deviceTypeId: 210
manufacturer : SONOFF
idAsInt : 1
inClusters : 0000,0003,0004,0005,0006,1000
endpointId : 01
profileId : 0104
application :
outClusters : 1000
initialized : true
model : 01MINIZB
stage : 4
manufacturer :
idAsInt : 242
inClusters :
endpointId : F2
profileId : A1E0
application :
outClusters : 0021
initialized : true
model :
stage : 4

All works fine with that driver.

unless someone published the fingerprint (as you just did), or it matches an existing fingerprint (inClusters at the minimum) and tests and confirms it works correctly with driver xyz (as you just did) there really isn't a way for us to figure these out.
Thanks, and I'll get this added

No problem, it looked like they'd already done that earlier in the thread, hence why I thought it might have been missed .....

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ha, ah yes you be correct, i did miss it LOL

Just realize ZBMINI is not UL listed. Does that mean hard wiring these devices makes my house not code compliant in US? I really like them. I have 8 installed. They are more responsive. But it's better to follow the code.

There are several factors here.

  1. National Electrical Code is a misleading name. It is not "code" as in "law" (i.e. tax code or such). Many municipalities follow it pretty closely, though some tweak, adapt, or interpret things differently. The last NEC class that I took was over 20 years ago, so I am not certain how they are handling smart home controls.
  2. UL is not the only game in town, though they are perhaps the best-known testing lab.
  3. Your insurance company may have an opinion on using certified products. Your liability might be at stake should there be a product failure causing a property damage claim. To me, this is a bigger factor.
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Thanks for the feedback. I am removing my ZBMINI.

Hi There,
this is my first posting, so please excuse any errors.

I have 3 of these ZBMINI in my house. They work as repeaters, but I think they have a really small range. I used the generic zigbee switch, works well for me.
The Hubitat itself reaches battery powered end devices, but not zbmini at the same place. ZBMINI to ZBMINI is not more than 3 meters with a small wall between.

My main use for the zbmini is as repeaters, the switch function is optional for me.
Child and Routeinfo looks like this:
Neighbor Table Entry
[Sonoff Switch 3, 785B], LQI:87, age:4, inCost:7, outCost:5
[Sonoff Switch 1, 8663], LQI:41, age:7, inCost:7, outCost:0
[Sonoff Switch 2, A688], LQI:70, age:4, inCost:7, outCost:5

Route Table Entry
status:Unused
status:Active, age:64, routeRecordState:0, concentratorType:None, [Sonoff Switch 1, 8663] via [Sonoff Switch 2, A688]

Questions:

  1. Is this a normal range? Or is one probably faulty?
  2. I'm trying to build a stable mesh. What are the alternatives for repeaters. I would like to keep them hidden. So no tradfri or other plugged in devices. Because not using bulbs (as recommended in another thread they're in their own Hue Zigbee Mesh) I would need around 20 of the zbminis to have a stable mesh all over the house. Before investing in buying and installing I would like to know more about them.

Thank you very much in advance for your support. Great community here.

I will answer myself :slight_smile:

I got two tradfri repeaters. They have a much better range than the zbminis. The two of them reached almost everey corner of the house. If the tradfris have a bad range (as in another thread stated), the zbminis are way worse.

One additional thing: With the zbminis and also only with the hubitat, my xiaomi sensors did often not refresh. Looking at the device page, they were some hours behind, and sometimes needed a new pairing.

Since the tradfris, they work perfectly. The last value is never older than 40minutes. And I didn't need to pair one of them again.

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Thanks for the info!

Using this following wiring diagram, the zbmini combined with a SPST switch overcomes the 'No Neutral' problem in current US wiring methods.

The SPST switch now toggles the light.

(C4 / Generic Zigbee Switch)

I am admittedly confused. What is the "no neutral" problem when using a neutral connection? Perhaps I am not understanding something.

In the US, it is common wiring practice to drop a 2-wire switch leg down to the wall switch --the SPST switch just breaks the "hot" wire. The neutral is not present in the wall switch box. With the ZBMINI in the light fixture and S1 & S2 being the switch leg, this works on HE with existing wiring.

I think that I understand. I was stuck in semantics and pedantics.

You are suggesting placing the ZBMINI where there actually is a Neutral (fixture box).

Let me play devil's advocate, then. Where does Lin come from? In the wiring configuration described, it would be the output from the switch. In that case, you might as well just use a smart bulb and have more features.

Correct. In this original type of US wiring, the line comes to the fixture box, but does not directly connect to the fixture yet. The line then loops down to the spst switch. I don't care for smart bulbs, but I also want to keep the existing functionality of the manual switch. My installations will be for attic & closet lights that I want to programmatically turn off if they've been left on.

hi guys,

is it possible to replace N with L? in the wall behind the switch reaches N, I have an old double switch and I can bring in my case L, and I will have N (direct), L (from the connection bulb) and a wire that reaches the bulb where N reaches, so the scheme would be the other way around, will it work?

@mike.maxwell / @martyn - having some issues with these.

Added 2 out of the box and tried to use the generic zigbee driver.

As requested earlier I have attached a fingerprint and log output. I can see some differences for @martyn 's logs so wondering if it could be a different version/build of the device?

fingerprint profileId:"0104", endpointId:"01", inClusters:"0000,0003,0004,0005,0006,FC57", outClusters:"0019", model:"01MINIZB", manufacturer:"SONOFF"