SmartThings Hub will reacquire an excluded device?

I have seen this happen a couple times now where a device (Aeon minimote, GE Link bulbs) that I have excluded from SmartThings and then joined in on the HE hub will get reconnected again back to SmartThings somehow even though I haven't triggered it to reconnect to SmartThings again which means I should have excluded it from HE which I did not do.

This weirdness forces me to do a second exclusion of the same device from ST then readd it HE and get it back into its' rule automations a second time.


UPDATE: The more I think about it I am not describing the problem correctly. The problem is I apparently lose activity with a device like the Aeon Minimote and the only way to get it back that I have found is to Exclude it and then do a re-discover of the device and re-add it to the rule automations. What would be causing me to lose connections with a z-wave device and is there a better way to get it talking back to the HE hub?
On the GE bulbs I will randomly lose connection. Just for kicks, I like the exclusion process on ST hubs because of the feedback it gives on a successful exclusion so I go to the ST hub and start an exclusion process and the GE Bulb will successfully exclude there? I am assuming the ST hub acquired the GE Bulb back.

I'm not sure I totally understand the problem you are having but you should know that others have had problems keeping the minimote connected to HE. Some have had it drop off and need to be re-paired and other have had it require multiple button presses if it hasn't been used in a while. Luckily, because of the Lutron integration, I no longer needed these remotes and use it only to exclude troublesome zwave devices (it doesn't need to be attached to HE for this function).

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I was fighting with my minimotes for weeks and finally gave up on them, sold them via ST community, and bought a Lutron Pro hub and Picos.

Picos are so much better and more versatile. I have been able to mount Picos on the wall where I have always wanted a switch, no wiring required. @destructure00 recently sold his too


Just tried pushing a button on my minimote which (according to the event log) hasn't seen any activity since the 18th of November... and it registered the button push on correctly on the first try. It had not been moved from its location on the shelf since its last usage. Happened to walk down the hall and tried pushing a button again, and noticed that its blue light started blinking on and off for about 10 seconds then went out. No button push registered until I tried again, at which point the events (and all subsequent events) were logged correctly.

I think this kind of behavior is normal and related to the fact that it is a 'portable' class of Z-Wave device which can't rely on always having a single neighbor in the mesh to route through; the protocol for finding its place in the mesh works differently from a stationary Z-Wave device. This would seem to fit the description of a "Routing Slave" as described in the "Types of Network Nodes" section in this article: Understanding Z-Wave Networks, Nodes & Devices | Vesternet

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Thanks guys for all the responses.

I wonder what the issue may be with Minimotes on the HE? It is sort of like the issue I have the GE bulbs just dropping offline randomly except with the GE Bulbs it is less intrusive with Zigbee because it doesn't mess with the automation after a reset.

OK, so it looks like if I am going to get a solid button controller solution I will need to replace the minimotes

  • get a Lutron hub with Pico remotes. Is the Lutron local control as well?

Are there other portable button solutions to consider for HE? I was just so use to the solid performance of the Minimotes on my ST.

This was one of the biggest reasons I switched to HE. I worked with njschwartz on the Lutron Hub / Smarthings setup and while it was a great experience, it's nothing like the experience over here. It was required a nodejs server and had a bit of lag. All local on HE (via telnet) and super fast. Plus the picos are dirt cheap and can be mounted in a variety of ways...most importantly, on the wall like any other switch. I don't have neutrals throughout my house so Caseta was the only real option for me. I griped a bit at first because I had GE switches at my old place...but it was a blessing in disguise when Hubitat reared its head.

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I also have a remotec zrc-90 that I love for the bedroom because I have quite a few lighting options in there and also have quite a few automations specific to it. I don't always want to use alexa especially when I'm just leaving or entering the room. A quick tap on the way out and I'm done.

8 buttons each with push/hold/double tap. That's 24 possible solutions.

Make sure you get a pro hub. Energy Avenue has one of the cheapest prices around. Seems to have gone up $10 since I purchased it several months ago but still cheaper than amazon.


@stephack Any thoughts about going with the earlier generation hub? Amazon has a bundled kit price but it uses the older hub.

P-BDG-PKG1W (White only)
(1) L-BDG2-WH
(1) PD-6WCL-WH
(1) PJ2-3BRL-WH-L01R
(1) CW-1-WH (Claro wallplate)

That’s not a Caseta Smart Bridge Pro hub. It’s must be the Pro model to support the local Telnet interface.

Here is an Amazon listing for a Pro Kit, but it is pricey...

Here’s a decent deal via eBay


As @ogiewon pointed out, you need the pro hub...and the 125 for the hub, switch and pico is a good deal. I haven't seen it go for significantly less than that in the past.

Thanks guys! Great information. Caseta Smart Bridge Pro it is and it should be here by the 10th.

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