Smart ZigBee 3.0 Light Dimmer Switch HGZB-02A - changed title

Thanks. I didn't know that. I'll check it out. I thought the write-up on it said it was fan only.

Do some research to confirm but it does look like the HB controller is like most remote fan controllers, where the controls for lights and fan are inside the fan canopy.

Do you have a model number and/or source for the Hampton Bay Zigbee controller? So far, I can't find it.

I think that Hampton Bay might be a Home Depot brand. The fan was specifically aimed at Wink hubs. Check out Smartthings forums for information.

Here its is.

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Thanks. I will look for it. It does not seem to be in the stores, just special order.

That is correct. But you can get it delivered for free.

I decided to order two of these:

Smart Zigbee 3.0 Light Controller

Since these are also dimmers, they will control the lights. I may keep the remotes I have now to control the fan speed in the two fans or just remove them since we leave the fans running on low anyway. If I really need to control them, there is the old-fashioned chain. I just could not justify the added cost of the Hampton Bay controller.

Where does it say that's a dimmer? I don't believe that's a dimmer at all #1. #2, that is really expensive for a unit with no dimming and no physical switch. If you don't want to control the fan from HE, then no , don't get the Hampton Bay. But I don't see why you wouldn't want to control the fan part as well.

probably meant to link

You are right. I meant to order this one but accidentally ordered the other. I am cancelling that order if possible or will return it when it arrives and order the right one. It is only $0.50 more each.

Time for an update:
I ordered the two of the Smart ZigBee Light Dimmer Switches. I installed one in our master bedroom ceiling fan and one in the living room ceiling fan. The hardest part was to fit the module in the limited space available and get the cover over it.

Of course, the first is the hardest but It wires up simply. Line power goes to one terminal. Lights come of the next terminal, and neutral goes to the third terminal. In the case of the fan, I want to control lights but leave the fan operating by the chain as we very rarely change it anyway. I connected the source power black to the black of the fan and added a stub wire to connect to the dimmer. Likewise with the neutral wires. The new black and white wires went to the appropriate spaces in the dimmer and the blue light wire went to the center L1 connector.

I turned the switch on and the lights came on which is a very good sign. However, the test would be pairing with the Hubitat hub. I set the Hubitat to search for Zigbee devices and it was detected very quickly. I had to go in to the device settings though and change it from generic "device" to "generic zigbee dimmer" instead. I tested and it worked great. I programmed an Iris Smart Fob to act as a control since it has 4 buttons. Two control on and off and two control brightness. This is temporary until I get more smart buttons in to program for these functions.

The second went in easier after I had gained experience with the first. Likewise, it detected as "device." I changed it to "generic zigbee dimmer" and all is well.

These cost much less than some of the other options. I don't have fan control, but that is not problem. What is though is that I was not able to cancel the other order so I have two switches that I need to get returned. I may just hang on to them though as I have two small ceiling fans in the other two bedrooms that could use them, even if they don't dim.

Here is the information for the dimmer:
ID: 37E2
Manufacturer: FeiBit
Product Name:
Model Number: FNB56-ZSC01LX1.2
deviceTypeId: 109
manufacturer : FeiBit
idAsInt : 1
inClusters : 0000,0004,0003,0006,0008,0005,1000
endpointId : 01
profileId : C05E
application : 01
outClusters : 0019
initialized : true
model : FNB56-ZSC01LX1.2
stage : 4

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Thanks for updating this.

I changed the title to reflect the actual item that I got and am using.

Now that I have had two of these installed for a few days, I can say that I really like them with a couple of minor quibbles.

First the quibbles: They are rather large so a ceiling fan with a large cover is helpful to cover this device and its wiring. If you would like to install it to control a chandelier with a smaller cover plate, forget about it. It would have to go in the ceiling and then the wiring would be connecting outside a junction box. That does not work for electical code.

Now that I got that out of the way, this dimmer works great. It works with LED lights with no flickering. The good thing is that I can change out a bulb if one goes bad with another bulb capable of being dimmed at a lower cost than purchasing a smart bulb. ZigBee 3.0 appears to be very stable. I had tried a 4-button Sylvania Lightify Smart Switch which was causing problems with my ZigBee mesh and other items to appear to be there but be non-responsive until I removed the Sylvania devices and removed and re-paired the misbehaving devices. The dimmer switches kept working properly. These are the first ZigBee 3.0 devices I have. I will definitely look for more given this experience.

These also function as repeaters which means even more capability for my ZigBee mesh network. My conclusion is that these are a cost-effective way to add dimmer capability for lights at a reasonable cost. It would have been nice if they also included ceiling fan control capability, but in reality, that is not nearly as important to me right now.

Just for the record...these devices are Zigbee 3.0 compliant but they are also backwards compatible with Zigbee ZHA, which is what HE uses. You are not, in fact, getting Zigbee 3.0 messaging from the device. So, that really plays no part in the functionality of the device, from what I understand.


Thanks for the clarification. That does not take away that they seemed to not have problems like some of the other devices when I tried using two Sylvania Lightify Smart Switchs in my setup. They have since been removed and through it all, these dimmer switches kept working properly.

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Now that you have used these for a while, would you recommend them?
Also, does the switch have to be always in the ON position for this switch to work?

Yes, I would recommend them if you have the space in which to install them. Yes, the switch needs to be on for them to work. I use a little switch blocker to make sure the switch stays on. I have only needed to turn it off once to reset it and fix a communication problem. Otherwise, they have been very reliable and work well with the Hubitat apps.

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