Howdy, all. I'm looking to replace my Schlage BE469 with something I can actually use with Hubitat.
I can see lock/unlock status, and battery level, but that's it. I cannot lock or unlock the door, update codes, etc.
I have updated all software I know to update, installed and configured Reliable Locks, and placed a repeater close as I can to the lock.
At this point, I'm looking to just replace it with something that works.......So....what suggestions do you have?
Thanks much!
That’s not the best placement. Check out explanations by @csteele, but in general zwave controllers will pick repeaters closer to the controller than the end-device, so I place repeaters approximately 1/3rd the distance between the controller and the end device.
Interesting. Most everything I have seen has said it should be placed closer to the lock. I will try putting it closer to the hub, to see if that helps. I'm not entirely confident in that, as nothing else has seemed to work. But I'm willing to give it a go.
Sad thing is, the Hub and the lock are not even that far apart- and there are plenty of other devices in between them.
Is this a C7 hub? The Schlage can work, and be OK, but they do take some special attention to detail. I have 3 of these older locks that were on a C5 and now are on a C7 hub that are functional.
What does your Zwave details page look like, would you post a screenshot of that page so we can look at it? Things like ghost pairings can make the Zwave mesh unstable. And just not having enough devices, weak mesh, and other things might be causing problems.
The other thing that you must absolutely do is do a factory reset of everything in the lock. I assume you came from another hub if you have locks that old. That pairing and those codes must be wiped out completely before pairing with Hubitat, or you will have issues. You can't just remove it from one hub, and pair it to the new hub and make it work.
Yes, I wiped the entire lock as clean as was possible when I switched it over to Hubitat. I should be able to get in a little later and find a screenshot of the required page.
I moved to the repeater closer to the hub, so it is about a third of the way between it and the lock. Absolutely no change in behavior.
It takes time for the Zwave mesh to repair itself and find the new routes, it isn't instantaneous. It takes overnight or longer to let the mesh relearn. You can do a repair on the individual lock and repeater nodes to help things along, but don't do a full Zwave repair.
It takes a long time for a mesh to relearn as @neonturbo indicated. I made a single major change to my z-wave mesh in late November of last year. It took one week for some dramatic changes to start. And then two additional months for those changes to settle.
Just for fun, I just did another factory reset. Now, I can't get exclusion OR inclusion to work on the lock. (Programming it as a standalone lock works fine.) Tempted to go back to my original question about recommending locks that are known to work well with Hubitat. 
I replaced my schlage be469 non-plus with an Alfred DB2-B a year ago October. It has been flawless !! WAF has gone way up !! I love it.
There is a user on here that has ties into the company and gave me a 20% coupon code, but I don’t remember who it was.
Edit. : I don’t know if @jeubanks os still a active user here or not. He might be able to help.
I lurk.
1st Can you post a copy of your z-wave details page?
2nd. You need to pair the lock within 2 feet of the hub. There is a whisper that goes on during pairing for security.
3rd is your firmware on the lock above 7.10?
I've been meaning to post that. The only two things that seem to stand out are a rather high response time, and 42 route changes.
I may have to try pulling it off the door and taking it downstairs to where the Hub is. That is worth a try.
The firmware version on it is 5.8. Unfortunately, I don't think it's possible to update firmware on these things.
Yeah not upgradeable. Anything prior to 7.10 is a crapshoot with the 500 and 700 series chips. Still would be useful though to see your z-wave details page
Someday, I will be giving this some attention when I am actually close to the computer to get a good screenshot of that page. 
I guess I shouldn't feel that bad about the strong possibility I will have to break down and buy a new lock. After all, the strong majority of hardware I'm using with this was given to me free by Nexia some years ago, so for someone as cheap as I am, it's not a massive investment.
All the switches work fine. The thermostat works fine. Pretty much everything I brought over from Nexia has worked flawlessly, except the door lock.
The only other headache I've had is an in a velly dimmer switch I am having to use, because I can't use a regular light switch (our house is quite old, and there are no neutral wires). The dimmer wound up being the perfect solution, but I had some issues with set up- initially under Nexia- but it was apparently because I was being a dumbass, and did something wrong. I was impressed that when I contacted tech support, I rather quickly wound up in email correspondence with the founder of the company, who was extremely helpful and friendly. He has been happy to hear that the performance of the dimmer has been even better since I switched to Hubitat.
I have BE469s and they do work with Hubitat (mine work quite well in fact).
Mine are currently the BE469ZP version (Z-Wave plus, 500 series chipset), but I used to also use the older non-plus BE469NX version.
BUT, getting them to work is all in the initial pairing. I don't think they support Network Wide Inclusion (NWI) (at least the BE469NX does not) so you have to bring the hub and lock close together when pairing.
When pairing, I found you get the best results if you install the lock where you plan to use it, and then bring the Hub to the Lock (in my case, using a long Ethernet cable so the hub can be next to the lock). Some say to bring the lock to the hub when pairing, but I found that it works better the other way around (bring the hub to the lock). I think its because if you pair where the lock is to be used, the lock better learns its neighbors.
Then, after you pair everything, have the hub do a manual "Repair Z-Wave" from the Z-Wave Details page. Now, there are many who will tell you this isn't necessary, but if you are using the "older" 469NX which isn't "Z-Wave Plus", it needs to learn routes back to the hub, and in my experience, the "Z-Wave Repair" is needed if you have the non-plus devices.
Finally, as mentioned, I changed all mine out for the "ZP" versions. I was able to buy a number of used locks on ebay for about $20-40 with shipping. It doesn't matter which "finish" you find on ebay (Bronze, brass, nickle, etc)- you can swap out the internal mechanism and put it into your lock with just a few screws. That also helped.
So, if you haven't considered the foregoing, maybe it will save you a bit instead of replacing.
Or, as you say, just buy new locks if you have the extra $ to spare.
Thanks for that. You have explained the factors involved in much better detail than anyone else has so far. It's always good to know some of the reasons why some of the previously made suggestions work.
Unfortunately, it may not be entirely practical to move the Hub close to the lock. It's not that they are that far away as the crow flies, but due to the layout of the house– including where the hallways are, where the stairways are, Etc.- I would need a really long Ethernet cable to get up to it. I may have to settle for trying to do it by moving the lock downstairs close to the hub.
I took a quick look the other night at the Z-Wave locks on eBay, and it seems the days of getting one for $20 or $40 maybe over. I may just have to do a different search, with the different terms, but a lot of the ones I saw listed weren't that much less expensive than buying a brand new one on Amazon. I don't really care about the finish. If I can find one that works, I'm not transplanting any guts. Looks aren't really that important. I'll slap it in that door either way.
I only asked about the page to see if you have any ghosts (denoted by no route in the routeing column) If you do, they need removed as they too can and will prevent pairing of the lock
I've also done it where I move the lock to the Hub. That's just a few screws to remove the lock and keypad from its current location. Then after pairing, try to move the lock back to the room where you will install it and do a repair of just that lock device from the Z-wave Details page before you re-install it. If the repair completes successfully, you're good. Else, walk it back half-way and try the repair so the lock can learn some neighbors closer to where it will be placed. Its a pain this way, but it may work.
That's all I have to add. Good luck.
I haven't seen anything that resembles a ghost, but I will take another look when I get home. Fortunately, removing the lock from the door is quite easy. It was simple enough to install it, so removing it shouldn't be too bad. I'm always doing things like replacing the motherboard in my 3D printer, so a door lock shouldn't be too difficult.
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