Remote that sends signal through wall to IR controlled AV Equipment

I need some help to figure out how to control some legacy AV equipment that is NOT in line of sight and is controlled with IR remotes. If possible, I'd love to do it with Hubitat somehow, but if not, maybe some of the smart people here can suggest another way or help me get my old system working again.

  1. Via Hubitat: I have a Bond Bridge, but Bond is clear that their device is not designed to control AV systems, and it will only only toggle on/off.

  2. Via some other system: I've read a bit about the Sofabaton X series, and it seems to do what I'm seeking. In fact it seems to be a replacement for the Harmony / Monster remotes, with the same fatal weakness - ir relies Sofabaton's website to be able to use the thing long term.

3, For over 15 years, I've had a Monster AVL300 Remote, which for the most part is a rebranded Logitec 890. It's an awesome device so if I could get it so it will update, that would be ideal.
It has three key features:

  1. it allows you to install the "fingerprint" of other remotes so the AVL300 can be a universal remote. The remote itself sends both IR and RF signals.
  2. it has a companion device called and "Omnilink" which receives RF signals and converts them to IR. This allows you to have your equipment in another room or on another floor; with an Omnilink in front of it you can control the old IR equipment from anywhere in the house via RF signals from the remote to the Omnilink, then IR signals to the equipment.
  3. It controlled Zwave devices and was actually my first Zwave hub (!)

The problem is the only way to update both the Remote and the Omnilink is via a website. While the Logitech version of the website still works, the Monster version does not seem to, and the specific Monster website is the only way to get data into the Monster device (you can use your Monster username and pw to login to the Logitech software/site, and revise your setup there, but the Logitech software won't download the changes to a Monster device. For a time you could make updates via the Logitech software, then download them via the Monster Sofware, but that no longer works. The monster software simply says "Problems detected with Network conenction; your network connection is not functioning" even though I am able to access the internet from this computer with other software (ie google chrome, etc.)

  1. I realize option 4 is to totally get rid of the legacy devices, but I like my exisitng speakers, and they need a receiver to drive them, soooo...

Any ideas?

Get a remote IR blaster. I use a Broadlink RM3 combined with this app to control a TV and an AV receiver (and an IR controlled fan)

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I use multiple Harmony Home Hubs to IR control my AV equipment and mini splits in multiple rooms with the driver linked below (local). Harmony has discontinued the line, but you can still get them on eBay for $30, and they are still supporting their functionality, so I have had no issues adding new devices (just did a few weeks ago), updating activities, etc. You can add/program essentially any device (even if not in the list of supported devices) and manually add any command from your existing remote and start activities or send individual commands if needed. No RF support though, if you need that.

I'll second the RM3. I have one in my living room and another in my bedroom, and both have worked well for me.

I also have an RM4 which also includes an RF blaster and is useful for ceiling fans. (And, in my experience, much more stable than Bond.)

Is the Broadlink 4 essentially the same thing as a Bond, but it also supports AV devices??
I've googled around a bit but not sure I totally understand this device. Why is Bond recommended here if the RM4 does everything Bond does plus more, and is less expensive??

I double-checked and it's the RM4 Pro that duplicates Bond. The regular RM4 does not include an RF blaster. The Bond claims to have a longer ranger, and they have some differences in their integrations although both are compatible with Hubitat.

Personally, I would NOT recommend Bond. I did use one for several years and had loads of problems with it. It did not have the range it claimed to have, and I had to reconfigure the whole unit from scratch every time they released a firmware update. I have heard some people who are happy with theirs, so it may have just been something unique to my setup or the unit itself, but I had very poor experiences with it.

I eventually replaced my Bond with the RM4 Pro and have had no issues in the two years I've had it.
https://www.amazon.com/BroadLink-Universal-Learning-Entertainment-Compatible/dp/B083LBMX64?th=1

Interesting. I am going to look into both having the Bond I have (regular version) replicate AV commands by doing it manually [Update: Works only for three commands per "device." If I want to add more remote commands I have to use up more of my 30 device limit...], and learn more about the Broadlink.

My first Bond worked until it did not about 8 months later, but Bond replaced it for free. My second one has been working since. Their customer service is great. I wish I could stop the Bond from communicating with the internet without constantly having the light blink. I know I can turn off the light, but I like to know it is working at a glance.

It took me some time to set up the Bond, but once set up, it works fine. I initially bought it to automate Comfortex motorized shades, which it does fine. When I first set it up, I had trouble getting Bond to send a command to replicate the RF long press on the remote control that these shades require, but they came out with a long press, and since then it works. Can the Broadlink do long presses?

Also, the Bond commands would not always run, but I've since written my Hubitat rule to re-execute 5 times, 10 seconds apart, so if the shade does not pick up the command initially, hopefully it will on on the subsequent 4 times it is sent. It now only misses a command about once every 6 months. I'm not sure I can totally do away with the Bond because one of my ceiling fans is specifically integrated with Bond.

The Bond is placed about 1/3 way in on the main level and reaches my entire house (1900 sf on main level, and partial upstairs) so no issue with range.

What equipment? Is this an older AVR? Does it have a serial port? I ask because years ago I remember someone on the SmartThings community automating their AVR with an Arduino that bridged the connection between ST and their AVR.

It's a bunch of older equipment that includes VCR, cassette deck, etc. It is rarely used, but family enjoys watching old movies and stuff when they come over. I should probably digitize it but what fun is that. And I'm old, so I still frequently use the CD player. I was able to control it with the old Monster AVR300. Not at all interested in messing with an Arduino but apprecitate the info very much.
I recently "upgraded" the receiver to a +/-15 year old Denon that I can control via Hubitat except for some reason once I turn it off (standby), Hubitat can't turn it back on. But thanks to this thread I think I just solved that - I was able to pair the Denon remote to the Bond (which happens to live in the same space) and now I can turn it on via Hubitat via the Bond.

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In my case, I bought a house that has a rack in the garage that feeds the two home theater setups. The original owner had used Savant to control this, and the previous owner to me had the system de-nutted to the point that it couldn't do much. I talked to the integrator, and their hourly rate was a lot higher than I wanted to pay, especially on top of their suggested system update due to the Savant system being so old. Since I wanted to control my own system, I went a different route.

I use an app called Roomie Remote, in conjunction with GlobalCache iTach hardware modules (IR2xx). Roomie is subscription-based, and only supports Apple products, but is highly configurable and relatively straightforward. It supports IP control as well as IR and RS232 with the use of the iTach modules. They have a large library of supported devices, but also allow the ability to program your own (I had to do this for my subwoofer amps and and old Atlona HDMI switch that I have).

Went to their website to check it out. Interesting and thank you for posting it.
Unfortunately for me, it fails on two fronts:

  1. I've decided to never again invest in system that requires significant setup effort that also relies on either a subscription or the mfg continuing to leave a website active. That is exactly how I got into my current situation - my AVL300 would work perfectly fine if the website were still active to allow me to reprogram the remote, but it is not. At this point, I'm perfectly able to do the programming, etc. But at some point I could find myself in my late 80's, perhaps with diminished acuity, and I don't want my current self to put my future self in a position of not being able to turn on the CD player, etc.
  2. The system runs on iOS. I don't own any iOS devices (although I use an Ipad for work), and don't want to be either forced to switch, or forced to stay with iOS if I switch.

That was one of the appeals to me of the Hubitat. Even if they were to cease operations (which I hope never happens), as far as I can tell, my HE and 90% of my connected devices and automations will continue to hum along just fine. The only ones that won't work are because those systems themselves have an issue (ie Airthings, etc.) and nothing specifically related to Hubitat. I might have to find an alternative to things I think my HE picks up via a connection to HE servers, such as sunset/sunrise time, but a lux sensor would be an acceptable substitute.

Via global cache and Hubitat