it does not connect to router. will try connecting by usb and install earlier version of firmware and see if it works. have tried on two of the kmc outlets. same issues. so reproducible issue.
Anyone gotten the Merkury Outdoor Plug working?
This one?
[edit] never mind got it working, there are two Merkury outdoor plugs on the blakadder page, was using the wrong one. it works!
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Hoping someone can help...
I have a Monoprice IR Bridge and have installed in with T4HE. However, there is no child device created. I'm not sure if there is a special child driver that I must install first.
the device shows up and is using the "tasmota - universal parent" driver.
Also, the firmware on the bridge is tasmota-httphook-8.5.1
when the 2nd outlet repeatedly clicks, it means it has gone in the paring mode. And had to put the wifi information again. everything working fine and enjoying it.
I am using an ESP32 (dev board) flashed with Tasmota. It works pretty well for turning on/off an LED/relay. I can control it from the web-interface as well as Hubitat with the created child device. Now I am trying to read a Button connected to a GPIO but I don't seem to get a new device created in Hubitat. Is there something I am missing? I tried using: Button;Switch;ADC Button and a few others in the module configuration page. Anyone got this to work to report a button, switch state to Hubitat?
Thank you very much for your work! Great piece of software and awesome step-by-step guide which was really easy to follow!
There is just one tiny thing I cannot get working. I have connected a simple touch wall-switch for my ceiling lights (Tasmota v8+). I was able to link it with HE and it worked. Kinda 
I mean I am able to trigger the switch from HE dashboard. When I do so - all the attached smart apps seem to work fine. But when I trigger the switch manually with my hands OR from direct tasmota panel (accessed by device's ip) - the HE does not seem to react to state changes of the device. Device powers on/off just fine, but the HE driver for it does not detect the state change and so the apps do not trigger.
Is there something I missed in configuration? I have followed your wiki EXACTLY step-by-step.
EDIT:
Nevermind! I have missed an important bit - my tasmota devices where not of HE edition. After flashing HE edition Tasmotas - all is flawlessly synced!
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Glad to see another happy Tasmota - HE user! It's the best. I'm up to 57 Tasmota devices. All you read about z-wave issue here - none of that exists with Tasmota. I'm sure it takes a great wifi, I'm Ubiquiti, maybe that's why mine is so solid. Good Luck!
Be sure to look into device groups within Tasmota. It is fantastic. Example - 4 color bulbs in bathroom lights - all in a device group. Change color/brightness/on/off (anything) and they all stay in sync, and very fast. From an HE perspective, you can only work with one of the bulbs since the rest will sync. Its great.
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Hey all,
It been a long year. Finally getting back to my home automation. I picked up a couple smartlife wall switch and can no long use tuya-convert to flash tasmota. Any work around yet or serial the only way.
If it serial, will have to research what I need to do serial flash.
Look at digiblurDIY channel on youtube, and Discord. He will even print the 3d jigs for people when requested. If the esp chip is easy to get to the printed jigs work great. I've done about 30 devices with mine, mostly Treatlife on/off and dimmers. Good luck
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what am i looking for on his channel?
He has a video of solder-less flashing with a 3d jig, and tons of tasmota and HA videos.
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@theisgroup I think what @rick.guthier is getting at is that you can no longer flash tasmota devices over the air. Near the end of 2019 they came out with a new firmware that closed down the back door that tuya-convert took advantage of. I was really disappointed to find this out as I had some RGBW bulbs I wanted to flash. But the new firmware hasn't been hacked yet. From what I have seen it doesn't look likely. It has been around a year now since the reports of the new firmware have popped up and there is no meaningful progress as far as I can tell.
So, getting back to the youtube channel, what @rick.guthier is saying is that you will need to physically flash the firmware using one of two methods: solder leads onto the various pins or use one of the 3d printed jigs to make contact with the correct pins and flash that way. Either way, you are going to need to open up your device and get access to the esp chip for flashing. Unfortunately this doesn't work for bulbs since you have to pretty much destroy the bulb to get to the chip.
Hope that helps.
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I wasn’t aware they closed the back door. Good information. Thanks.
What he said! Thanks Greg, I was being lazy. There is some hope for some bulbs, in that if you get the top off, it exposes the esp chip.
The Lohas 9W color bulb 4 packs - I'm 16/16 (4 4packs) in buying them that are still OTA flashable. (Last 4 pack was on done yesterday) These are a great deal - last ones were $17 after tax on Prime. That's $4.25/color bulb.
If you can get a 3d jig that works, this is great. I can convert a 4 pack of Treatlife switches in about 25-30 minutes total for a 4 pack.
@rick.guthier do you have a link for the bulbs? I have tried sengled bulbs and I find they aren't bright enough when white (they are very dim, less than 40W equivalent) . Their colour mode is good though.
I have tried Globe wifi bulbs (the ones I hoped to flash). They are great for White, but they are very, very dim in any colour mode.
How are the Lohas bulbs for brightness in white and colour modes?
The are very good for both. Compared to the Feit bulbs from Lowes, the whites are about the same. I have them in two bathrooms and I don't run them at full brightness.
The colors are good also. They blow away the Feit bulbs which are not bright at all when color.
I got them when on sale, my other three purchases were about $24 each set. Every bulb in my house that is not a candelabra, or a Br30 or BR40 is now a Lohas or Feit (10 of these). I think I've got a problem....
Thank you
Ok, I'm getting cranky now. I've spent hours trying to set up a Sonoff SV to control and monitor my garage door. I can now control the door fine. It's the reed switch I'm struggling to set up. I followed DrZzs youtube video up to the HA part. I have GPIO 14 set in Tasmota to switch2 (10). Using T4HE, I set up the child device as 'Universal switch as garage door' and enabled the 'extra door status' option. I can see a 'contact' and 'door' status that is permanently closed. It toggles briefly when I open/close the door but then remains on closed. Anyone successfully set up a relay using the T4HE drivers and a Sonoff SV able to help?
hi @davidandjoyrichard , I wrote in another post with the same subject but I saw it was [Deprecated] and then I found this one so I will reply in here:
I am one of those trying to get rid from smartthings and coming here. I have on ST a SmartApp that talk to tasmota and so, the IR-blasters I have are controlling my AC and TVs. Today that and the Sonoff RF bridge (also tasmota) are the only things I dont know how to migrate to HE - I know how to put the firmware but I dont know how to use it inside HE. The rest of my home are pretty much switches (tasmota) and zigbee/zwave devices.
What I would like is to understand how to use the IR and RF as I use on ST. I also use webcore and had it installed on HE. Can you help me into those?
you can do this a few ways if you have the tasmota driver installed you can talk directly to the IR Blaster from it or i have mine setup in WebCore with a virtual thermostat that sends the http command. for the ACs you would just need to create a virtual thermostat and then create an if statement upon change to send the correct IR code below is a snap shot of one of mine that is working for our Mitsubishi units. I also have two virtual switches one AC and one Heat that will tell it to send the heat or the AC code depending what one is one. this allows me to just say to the assistant change room temp to x and it will just update to heat or cool. there is also a rule in Hubitat that will turn one off if the other comes keeping the rule from getting confused
let me know if this gets you going in the correct direction or if I can help you in any other way.
for the TV I am just using my harmony for my integration so I have not setup a remote for it in Hubitat
