Refresh Lights non tunable A19 ...specifically Osram Lightify

I see ironically someon opened a post similiar regarding reporting issues for RGBW and BR30 style osram/lightify lights.

just an update...to both of you. i removed all my bulbs and paired them with ST...the firmware is up to date. 2 out of my 7 bulbs show sleepy end device while the other 5 are routers. idk how to change this so it stayed. I also used a ge link DTH on smartthings to change the delay like Ken suggested even tho it was a different type of delay regarding dim and transition time. i then removed them from both hubs ST and HE and repaired to HE....WOW what a difference! its only been a night but everything was pretty much instant so the mesh was screwey too. Origionally i added the bulbs first to HE then my other devices. i read to add the bulbs last so your other devices can establish a better repeater rather than using the bulb as a repeater.

i ordered some peanuts and will add these too. the only problem i have so far is when the lights go off...it doesnt report with out a refresh...so i just added a refresh command on my rules as the last step which so far works flawlessly. thx for the help.

Rule of thumb, if it's battery powered; not a repeater. Sengled made the decision to make their bulbs non-repeating. The bad zigbee bulb repeating issue you read about is caused by products with zigbee ZLL and ZHA profiles not working well together. ZLL is a subset of ZHA and doesn't always pass along all the ZHA traffic. The only z-wave gotcha is a feature called beaming; z-wave locks only listen well to a repeater that supports beaming.

Only your osram bulbs look to be repeaters and I think they're zll (zigbee light link) while your battery powered devices are ZHA (zigbee home automation).

Inexpensive appliance/lamp adapters often called Peanut plugs are inexpensive ZHA repeaters.

Not sure where he is from, but in the US Osram bulbs are ZHA. ZLL in Europe I believe.

There have been at least two versions of the Osram Lightify, one ZLL and one ZHA in circulation; I remember way back when I bought my first bulbs at Lowe's having a choice between two part numbers (one of which was on sale) which looked from all appearances to be identical. Now I suspect one was ZLL and the other ZHA. Someday I'll dig out my Lightify gateway and see what firmware levels they are. The firmware levels of each type are documented here:

I thought I read that a firmware update to US Osram bulbs, that broke Hue compatibility, changed them all to ZHA.
Either way I would stay away from the Sylvania/Osram branded bulbs. The Sylvania/LEDvance on the other hand are working perfectly for me since the recent update, and use a different SOC than the Osram ones. I also doubt there will be any future support for the Osram bulbs since LEDvance took over the product line. It’s a shame there is no distinction between old and new versions of these. The A19 RGBW bulbs have the same model number printed on the bulb, but are the same in appearance only.

interesting to know all this as i was unaware. Like Tony above i bought 3 bulbs at lowes as the first thing with smartthings way back, everything else came after. thats why i switched to sengled awhile back as i started to learn about the osrams and issues with them. I couldnt find a bulb under 20 back then and i think lowes had them for like 12 bucks or something. in fact i bought the hue ones first but took it back becuase i didnt want to buy the hue hub in addition to smart things hub. thanks for all the info though and ill use these osrams in closets and such for simple lighting rules and keep the sengled for the complex rules for the other rooms.

I just discovered what is probably the solution for your Osrams not reporting back their state. I have been having the same problem with mine, the rgbw and ct changing bulbs. I didn't see it before because I use primarily switches, but have been recently using the dashboard more and started to see lights still on, and when I refreshed the device, it was off. So, I thought I would try a different driver, for fun and all. It turns out that the Sengled color plus driver that mike maxwell recently finished up works great for the rgbw lights, both old and new versions. Then I tried out the Sengled plus driver and it works perfectly for the CT bulbs. So, I thought of you with the issue you were having with the regular Osrams and thought this might work for you. If you change the driver to the Sengled Classic, save, then hit configure and adjust any preferences it has. Stay on the device page and turn it on and off and see if it now updates correctly. I think it takes about 5 seconds for the device page to update the status btw. Let me know if that works for you. FYI: Mike told me it "can't hurt, it's just commands" or something like that when I asked if I was going to damage my lights by changing drivers.

thx for the update... i think i tried the HE version sengled elements driver at one point. I only have osram and sengled bulbs. started out with osram but switched to sengled because of the reporting and sengled doesnt act as a repeater. I tried the GE zigbee driver and that seemed to report best for me. I have not tried those by that Mike guy though...just the sengled HE versions.

Another issue i never brought up is the osrams when physically switched off show as on,,,,the sengled report correctly...even with the different drivers for osram they still wont report when offline vs sengled when offline. This is big for me cause we use our use physical and programmatic for most of our lights. For the record i have (non tunable for both brands) 7 osrams, 7 sengled and 2 sengled color plus. I will update using Mike's drivers and keep you posted.

You can't put these (or any zwave or zigbee bulb) on the end of a physical switch and expect everything to work correctly, firstly they are routers, the osrams struggle even doing this, but if you power them off, everything that was using it as a router now has nowhere to go.
They obviously cant report their state correctly if they have no power to their radio, this is typical for any device that's mains powered.

There is one and only one bulb device line I'm aware of that can be safely used in conjunction with a physical switch, those being sengled bulbs, as they aren't routers in the first place, and they are specifically built to provide an off message as their last gasp effort when they loose power...

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makes sense and thats exactly what they do when offline...show on...i moved these osrams to less used areas that we dont physically switch on/off often like the hallways and such. BTW where is your driver code located for the Sengled element color plus that Ken was talking about? Is it the one in the HE list or is it a custom driver I would add as code?

Anything I write is included in our platform releases, we don't publish drivers in the community.

gotcha...i just tried the sengled element plus and classic for the osram and it reports perfectly....nice..thanks to both for updating me. that 50% better than before. Now i will work on a notify rule for when offline (physically off) so at least I know when i look at my dashboard...(and they show on due to being offline).

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You're asking for serious trouble by not having continuous power to these bulbs, this has nothing to do with the driver being used.
Replace the bulbs with sengled, remove the switch, or protect it from turning off...

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Actually, the Hubitat hub will retain whatever the last known state of the bulbs were, before they lost power. Turning off actual power to Smart Bulbs is usually never a good idea. As Mike mentioned, only the Sengled bulbs will actually transmit a 'last gasp' zigbee message stating they are "off" when they lose actual power to the bulb. No other bulbs will do this, that I know of. For this 'feature' to work on Hubitat, you must use the Sengled specific drivers supplied by Hubitat (instead of the Generic drivers.)

Your entire list of devices is comprised of all non-repeating devices, except for your Osram bulbs. Early revisions of these bulbs make poor Zigbee repeaters, and will completely mess up your mesh network if you power them off. You also are using Xiaomi/Aqara devices, which are technically not fully Zigbee HA1,2 compliant. If you want these to work reliably, I recommend you do NOT use Peanut Plugs as repeaters. Instead, use the inexpensive IKEA Tradfri outlets as repeaters. These are one of few Zigbee repeaters that play well with the Xiaomi/Aqara devices.

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interesting as i am trying to learn about mesh (obviously). i can move most of these osrams to porch lights and such so we wont turn off. eventually i will discontinue them. i just bought the peanut plugs (but can return them still) but are 50 percent less than the Ikeas outlet...do you see these for less than 20 a piece? i bought 3 peanuts but may be able to get away 2 possibly? home is 2500 ft with 3 floors (including basement)..suggestions?

Here in the USA, they are only $10 a piece...

And their dedicated Zigbee repeater is smaller, but pricier at $13

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I'd also recommend you read a little about using Xiaomi/Aqara devices in this thread. It has a section in the first post about Zigbee repeaters that are know to work and not work.

im quite tired and am going to sleep but good find and I will read thru this. Amazon has them for around 20 currently. i still have my Smartthings hub and was thinking of moving my osrams and now the aquara contacts to that using hubconnect. if using ST hub for this doesnt this route thru the cloud or would it be local? i stopped integrating my ST hub the other night because it looked like it would route thru the cloud.

All custom code for SmartThings runs in the cloud. Only the ST SmartLighting app has a chance at running locally on their v2/v3 hubs, and even then only IF all of the devices used in the automation are running locally as well (i.e. no custom DTH's)

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