What transformer do you recommend for outdoor lighting that integrates with HE well? Need 150W.
Rather than automating the transformer, you might consider a Zooz Z-Wave Plus S2 MultiRelay ZEN16 with 3 Dry Contact Relays to automate the runs.
Below is a shot of my setup. I have one cheep HD transformer (for now) and the 3 relays you see give me 12 separate zones off that one 200w trans. Those Zooz's could even be installed outside (in water tight landscape boxes). Since they run off the 12v (14 or 24) line they can be installed 'in-line' allowing you to create zones even if you don't already have separate runs.
Just some thoughts. I love those Zooz units, got have one going in for my down draft and another for gate control in the fall.
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Does that give you control over dimming, color temperature, and color, or just on/off?
on/off my light are not colors. You would need an RGBW controller for that.
Ok, those controls aren't a 'must' for me I suppose, but dimming would be important I think for my setup.
Do HOA's actually allow RGB outside lights in the yard? I couldn't imagine them letting that fly around here.
Ha, I don't know, good question. What, people don't want me lighting my house up Duke blue during game time?? 
I doubt they would around here. They made my neighbor replant a tree that died in their front yard. They love driving around and handing out fines for all kinds of stuff.
Exactly why we bought our new house with no HOA!! Yes my neighbor could paint his house pink/orange, but I don't care I can't see it. 
We do have some RGBW light strips for around the porch which the wife can use to turn the white porch any color she wants. The crappy tape that came with the Sylvania strip feel off with the first 90+ summer day. We're waiting till fall to put them back up with decent 3M adhesive strips
We may add more accent colors, but most of our trees and such are just white Ansel Adams style. 
The OCD in me wants to add wire supports but it looks clean.
Well, I guess at the moment, those Zooz relays are a decent option for zoning. Any other controller-based options out there as an alternative?
Considered it, still am, but that is not complete yet. I still need a bigger transformer for the front, and one for the back. That one is VAC, it looks like I might need a VDC transformer for the deck post lighting. Stupid that all other outdoor LED lighting is VAC, but 95% of deck post caps are VDC. 
My property is heavily woody so the solar post caps (and all solar lighting) work maybe 3 weeks out of a year. That's what started me down the outdoor LED 'path', like home automation, outdoor lighting is addictive.
One neighbor said our place looks like a fancy country club all light up. All I could hear was George signing "front walk looks like runway lights, it's kinda like noon in the dead of night!" 
We have led solar lights outside but they are all garbagio. I need to replace them with some low voltage wired but so many other projects going on.
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Ok, I'm going with your solution here. Definitely the most cost-effective and gets the job done. I can't quite tell what the wiring should look like though. Anything you can offer in terms of explaining the wiring a bit more? Perhaps a pic from the top down?
OK I'll bite - how are you running 12 zones off of 9 contacts?
Oh, and, it seems as though you are powering the relays from the transformer itself - as in, I don't need the power adapter from zooz?
@lairdknox Sorry that's a combination of an old pic and bad math. I have 5 now, 2 are 14V rails so I do not use the other relay on it, and the 4th 12V relay only has 1 zone, for now. That is changing this fall as I finish the back yard/deck, and move two of them onto a separate transformer. Technically right now I cannot power all my lights at the same time, the transformer is too small.
That was the main reason for the wago clips. I knew I would changing the system around. The only thing I have found more addicting then automation is outdoor LV lights (so done with solar lights)
Correct
Here goes feel free to ask if this is not clear.
All wiring is done with the transformer unplugged from power.
Preinstall - This was done for ease and can be skipped. I am writing it out for a detailed explanation of how I did it and why it looks like it does.
The screw bindings to hold the wires in place are at the bottom of this device (when mounted you cannot access them). Before I mounted it I used small pieces of wire connected to wago lever nuts just to make it easy to install/add or remove later. This is not need, but make things easier IMO
Connect a small piece of black wire into the left side of each relay marked "R1" "R2" "R3". Then connected each of them to a wago 2 lever nut and bent the wire over. Next take 4 small piece of black wire, connect one to the units "+" terminal (this will power the unit no additional power supply needed). Connect the remaining 3 wires to the right side of the relay marked "R1" "R2" "R3". connect all 4 of those small black wires to a wago 5 we will call "wago 5 positive"
Lastely take one small peice of white wire and run it from the Zooz "-" terminal to a second wago 5 we will call "wago 5 negative". Tighten all screw terminal before mounting (if doing so)
Mount units as needed.
Final connections
Positive/Hot - The black wire coming down and then shooting across to the right is the positive/ hot wire from the transformer. It goes into "wago 5 positive". Connected that one wire makes all the other wires now "hot". Now attach all the positive leads from your runs into the wago 2 levers bent over in step 1.
Negative/Common - The white wire coming in from the top is the negative/common wire from the transformer. That goes into "wago 5 negative". Attach all the negative wires from your runs into t "wago 5 negative"
If your transformer has a photocell eye cover it with electrical tape so it will always be on. From there once you power the transformer all Zooz's will come on, they will need to be added to HE if not already and then your all set. Repeat as needed.
I'm also including a diagram from the Zooz sheet I used to design it all. Some may find it easier to follow than my write up. These unit have been installed and rock solid for 8-12 months depending on which rail. I do not use any physical switches, and they are optional just part of their diagram.
Hope that is at least semi clear. Let me know where I can clear it up more.
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Great explanation. Clears it up quite nicely. Thanks!
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Success! Implemented and works great. I didn’t think about this until now, unfortunately, but I wonder if these switches are supposed to be in a box of sorts for safety or code....or maybe not because it’s only low voltage...will have to look into this.
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I'm not an electrician and code varies state to state, but I'm pretty sure LV (anything under 48 volts) does not need a box in most states.
If it is posted on the net it most be true!? No. but it does mean some one else believes the same as I.
scroll down to find...
Not sure those units would even fit in a box.
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