Seems like there may be different versions of these out there, or perhaps earlier versions were buggy.
The ones I'd opened and tested before all had date code 06/2018 and older, those have the odd behaviour of either switch input controlling both load outputs in toggle fashion.
I just opened some newer ones, date code 12/2018 and later and those behave as expected, albeit the S1 input controls the L2 output and the S2 input controls the L1 output as was mentioned previously.
I think out of the box it doesn't matter to them what they do (odd choice of defaults, I agree), because if you're going to turn on a regular hardwired switch and make a light come on, you don't need a fancy relay
The relay reaction to the switch appears from the video to be reversible by controlling it via the hub. So which switch controls which relay is not important I guess. Or maybe it's just a firmware bug At some point I may connect mine to my Aqara hub and see if it offers a firmware update. But that won't help anyone without an Aqara hub, so there's little point to it.
Yeah, I mean that's pretty basic stuff to get wrong on both counts, they'll really need to up their game if they're intending to get ZigBee 3 certified and go more mainstream ..... and then there's CE and UL marking, I didn't see any evidence of that on any of the relays either.
When they certify for North America, Xiaomi tends to use ETL which is completely fine. Thatās a recognized certification organization in the US and Canada. UL and CSA are just different organizations to do the same thing in their respective countries. Thereās also CUL which is UL certification for the United States and Canada. CE On the other hand is a self certification and means absolutely nothing as far as Iām concerned.
CQC or China Quality Certification, which is whatās on this relay that is intended only for the Chinese 50 Hz market , is voluntary, not compulsory, and again like CE really means nothing.
This is from the Aqara Hub box (Although itās only the box that has that logo on it not the actual device ). So yeah, there are some discrepancies there they need to work on!
My bet is the hub is marked because it uses a PSU that carries those markings
A long time ago I worked for a company developing casino equipment for worldwide use, things may have changed (?) but back then you could get away with anything if it was low voltage, as long as the PSU was CE, RoHS, etc!
The Aqara Relay (model LLKZMK11LM) is not listed, however. But I have seen some retailers listing the relay as a product of another manufacturer. If we knew their company name then we can search for an ETL listing.
Bingo! And it's not off topic because we're trying to determine ETL listing for any peace of mind.
And there is still no peace of mind as all of EigenStone's products appear to be just re-branded Aqara products. Same or nearly the same model numbers and everything.
ETL searches turned up nothing for the relay. Caveat emptor.
True. From these photos the quality looks OK. Companies donāt usually spend the money on more expensive components like the Panasonic relays and then skip out on the rest of it.
Many of the ads for Xiaomi products Iāve seen state that they have fire retardant plastic, which is important. It would be odd for them not to use it across the entire line. Even for products that are intended only for distribution in China.
But yes, by all means, let the buyer beware, I am not a certification body.
Officially you canāt get away with much in Aus these days AND if you import something yourself, you are liable !
We have our own requirements called RCM.
Here is a good video review of the AQARA relay module, albeit in Spanish, but it should be clear enough. It also includes how to configure the device in HE.
Hi all,
I'm trying to find out if in fact I could buy this relay board and use it as dry run relays.
In case I could mod it to reach the goal if someone can confirm me it's possible, and how.
Many thanks!
Simon
However, I just added two 110v coil relays. Only cost $9 extra. The Xiaomi dual relay independently closes each of the 110v relays, and the contacts on those 110v relays become your dry contacts. Iām using mine to close the arm and disarm button contacts for a 3V DC alarm remote control.
Hello @njanda, thanks for the link, I'll check it!
@SmartHomePrimer, could you give me some more infos or share me some details about which coil relays to use and to wire? Only to be sure!
(I know, we've to be careful about the voltage in use. Btw here I'm on 220V, means I should use a bigger coil relay?)
@xefil The coil needs to match the mains input Iām using 120v coils, because thatās my mains voltage here. I wrote 110v before because I assumed you were in the US and it confuses people sometimes if you write 120v, which is my actual input voltage here Canada. Some of us Americans think the world runs on 110 and 220v @60Hz We also think everywhere uses ZIP codes, when in fact, it is ONLY the US that uses them