I saw the diagrams, but some things are too complicated for me 
Thanks for your answer, so you think that connect it to different lines, is what break the relay. If I connect the switch to the correct Line, it will work or do I need to connect it to the relay mandatory?
Regards!
If you need a local control, then you can omit s1 and s2 connection altogether and you can control the relays via HE. And this connection is confusing, as noted sometime back, even if you connect s1 to L1 and S2 to L2, when trun on s1 , that will toggle S2.
So this was rectified in the driver later, and now, S2 is not working at all.
But both are controllable via HE. The brightest minds @markus and @guyeeba can bring the best of this device.
Now , the image you reffered is exactly similar to what @Rxich is referred, Circuit vise both are same except he is talking about 120 volts.
In essesence both the loads at one end connects to the neutral and the other end goes to L1 and L2 of the relay. Now the switches wont work but controllable via HE.
Now if you connect the switches to the S1 and S2, that will offer local control. But right now thats having issues and expecting a working driver. .
I hope this helps. And I am not adding anymore confusion.
Yes I believe the problem is the 2 lines connected to relay, are you in the USA 120V or another country with 220V AC?
This circuit is correct one.
As @Rxich mentioned, Another line from another circuit might be an issue, as this might make the potential difference to 440 v . or 240 v depends upon where you are.
For your reference.
Yes, that is what I thought. I live in Spain/Europe, we use 230V lines, so both lines must be 230V in theory, but is clear that something went wrong when I used both, one for power on the relay and the other for the physical switches.
About the problem with the physical control, as I seen in other places is simply that the S2 and S1 labels are wrong. The S1 controls the L2 and the L2 controls the S1. For the rest, they work perfectly. I have tested them at the bench using zigbee2mqtt and they work perfectly, physical and digital, with interlock enabled and disabled.
I have ordered one new, I will try again in some days this time connecting both to the same line, and I will report.
The function of the physical buttons/switches can be set independently, and in the latest version of my driver the aforementioned "interlock" function works properly (it was buggy previously, so a press on "Save preferences" might or might not be needed).
But for the sake of completeness (and to save some time for @markus 
) there are comments in the source code of my driver about the values needed to control these functions, so everyone can make their wildest dream come true with some tweaking on the driver - as long as those dreams are related to S1 and/or S2. 
Yes, many thanks for those comments, I seem to not get it right though, I have one of them here and will fix it soon
Hang on guys, Guyeeba's driver works fine for me. I have independent control over both switches, physical & digital, with both S1 & S2 connected
--tried to post driver but formatting gets all screwed up
hello i have LLKZMK11LM and i add this drivers to my Hubitat:
https://github.com/guyeeba/Hubitat/blob/master/Drivers/Generic%20Child%20Switc
i have problem with momentery switch problem is:
BUTTON DEBOUNCE 
Have some easy hardwire solution ?
thanks for help
I think this behavior is to support both rocker (push button) and on/off switches. If you keep the button pressed for (a few) 100 msecs, the relay thinks that you use a regular switch, so it inverts its state when you release the button.
The easiest solution to avoid this issue is replacing the rocker switch with a regular one. Just don't turn the switch on/off too quickly, because the relay will think you use a rocker switch... 
But maybe @markus will find a setting hidden somewhere to mask this behavior, he is the one who's responsible for miracles...
I have ordered one new, I will try again in some days this time connecting both to the same line, and I will report.
The new arrived, connected again, the physical switch to the same line than the relay input (I've verified with a multimeter), all woking using the virtual switch... but again pressing the physical switch has broken the relay. I know the theory, I've other three of them working at my house, but is clear that at this location, something is wrong with my knowledge of the installation and I'm doing something wrong.
I'm not electrician, so I think I will let this at this point until I can get some external help.
Thanks for all that have tried to help me with this!
Hi @guyeeba, how are you?
Do you know if Markus has made a driver for this device?
I would like to have the presence feature that his drivers have.
From time to time, I have notice that with your driver the LLKZMK11LM device's blue led begins to blink and my other dependent Zigbee devices (that use it as a router) lose communication with Hubitat. When blue led stops blinking and stays on again, the dependent devices recover the communicate again with Hubitat. Have you seen this behaviour?
Thanks a lot.
Hi Felipe,
yeah, I also experienced stability issues with this device. I use it to control the pool pump and the lighting around the area, so I kinda abandoned them for the last few months, but I found a fw update available for them in the Aqara app. You have to join them to an Aqara hub to update, and there's no changelog, but MAYBE it fixes this issue... I haven't tried it yet.
If you'd give it a try, please share your experiences with us!
Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it!
I only have an old Xiaomi gateway version (i.e., itās not a aqara gateway, actually), nevertheless I could add the LLKZMK11LM to it, but I couldnāt find any new version to install on it. I donāt know if that was not possible because of the old gateway. So, sorry I couldnāt help more.
I just chose a driver made by Markus that is working with it (Zigbee - Generic Switch (with Presence)), but Iām having the same issues regarding the blinking blue led along with routing problems, from time to time.
So far, thatās it.
Regards.
I joined my pool relay to my Aqara hub, and this is what it said:
Updated, rejoined to HE, and it seems to be working fine. So far, at least...
Ahoi!
I would like to use this relay to control a LED strip w/o any physical switch connected to it. Probably not the best solution but I already have the relay.
My main concern is the wiring. If I understand correctly the main input L goes to the 'IN' while the power supply's L goes to the 'L1' socket. The main input neutral should go to 'N' socket as well as the power supply's neutral. So I should connect them with a 3 socket Wago, right?!
Thanks a lot for your help!
Hello everyone, im new here.
I bought 2 aqara relay and i have 2 xiaomi gateways both of them give me not supported when i tried to connect the relay in Mi home.
Can anyone tell me which gateway completable with this relay
I have
Thanks in advance
Have you tried to pair the Aqara relay directly to Hubitat?
If it pairs, what is the model/manufacturer from HE device details, Data section?
Download the Hubitat app
